| letterdude04:12 UTC07 Mar 2006 | Wow! I never realized how much goes into this kind of an experience until I sat down and tried to organize it. Just for the sake of getting away from the computer, I've needed to break this report into two segments...even at that, it's long! No matter - it's not as though you can't take a snack or bathroom break, ya' know! Additionally, I've set up photos with "Webshots". The first completed album is for the Rarotonga portion of our trip. I'm still putting together the rest. I invite anyone wishing to view these photos to pm me their email addresses and we'll be only too happy to reply with an invite!
This report is entitled...
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<hr>TextKraft Dinner in Paradise!<hr></blockquote>
How much do you really want to know about getting there? We flew, from Vancouver, via Air Canada to LAX. US customs are set up at the Vancouver International Airport, so this actually made things much easier, as we didn't have to go through that hassle upon arrival in L.A. Finding your way around LAX is made easier by the many people - who look just like airport employees of some sort - that really want you buy something, give money or join a cult. Ultimately, we found someone wearing a gun. As long as WE weren't trying to sell THEM something, they were very helpful! Our baggage had been checked through to Auckland and, in as much as there is an agreement between Air Canada and Qantas (this turned out to be very important, later!), we didn't have to deal with finding our checked-in bags.
As we'd learned of the unpleasant Tahiti stopover, we decided to fly to Auckland, and then, back to Rarotonga. So, instead of a nine-hour flight, we opted for the wonderful 17 hour one. Of course, this doesn't include the 10 hour stopover in Auckland. Did I mention that our section of the flight was the only one where the movies wouldn't play? Technical glitch. Fortunately, we were seated beside the crying, sick baby, so we had something to occupy our time. It wasn't as bad as all that, though. I had the foresight to bring a well-stocked minibar and both Janice and I had our portable music. And, unlike wonderful Air Canada, Qantas has free drinks and food! Bonus! We used the stopover in Auckland to enjoy the free showers at the airport (you still have to rent the towels, though). I also had my introduction to "Kiwi-speak". Repeat after me:
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<hr>It's the seecond doah on the leeft.<hr></blockquote>
We went for a tour of downtown and even went up the Sky Tower. It turned out to be quite a nice time. I'll be damned if I could find those stupid White Owl Miniature Sweets, for Raro, though! Not in L.A. nor in Auckland. He ended up getting a little, bitty Bailey's and some coffee, though. And some regular White Owl Miniatures. Dip 'em in sugar, Elliot.
We flew Air New Zealand to Rarotonga. This constitutes a domestic flight, with this carrier. As such, our checked-in baggage limit was 20 kg, each. As it turned out, this, along with our carry-on, was ok. We managed to bring everything we wanted and/or needed. For the record, New Zealand customs, while more pleasant than the US, is more strict, with respect to guarding against foreign food and nasties. In fact, you have to go through inspection both arriving and leaving the country.
There was a group of young Tahitians on our flight and, as we approached Rarotonga, they broke into Maori song. It was wonderful! Nice introduction to the South Seas. There's no photo's of the "Welcome to the Cook Islands" sign, upon our arrival. This is because we walked out into a sauna. Everything fogged! Here's a tip that the lovely Janice wants me to pass along. When you arrive, make certain that you get your duty-free prior to going through customs. Nevermind what your know-it-all partner says. Fortunately, I still had significant portions of my own stock from which to draw from. The Crown Royal made it!
Our transfer was waiting for us and we were brought to the Muri Beach Hideaway without a problem. I've included photos in the "Webshots" album, as well as an accommodation report with TripAdvisor. If you're interested, I ask your indulgence in checking these out. As BetsyfromPike can attest, it's a wonderful place. You were so right, Bets. Thanks to everyone for the information.
As we got in late, on a Saturday night, there wasn't much else to do except go for a romantic, moonlit stroll along the beach. Ya' gotta' be there. But not with us. We were quite happy, on our own. Got up at sunrise and prepared fresh coffee and tea, toast (with imported peanut butter!) and fresh paw-paw. Wow. Went for a swim, before getting cleaned up for a church service. It's one of those "must-do" things...and really worth it. The manner in which the men and women have their separate parts to sing...in response to one another. It may be Christian, but, it's an undeniable part of their culture. Afterward, we went snorkeling. For those who are interested in the Cook Islands during the rainy season...just as Raro has repeatedly stated...the rain comes and goes. In fact, it's hot & humid enough as to appreciate the relief. Being in the water legitimized my wet clothing.
Things I quickly learned:
You cannot leave unwashed dishes on the counter. No matter how nice a place you're staying in, there's these little, tiny ants. Betsy's suggestion about bringing plastic bags was invaluable. Keep things clean, and you'll hardly see them. Remember that you're in the tropics, afterall.
All South Seas lagoons have sea cucumbers. They're like a big, fat worm or slug. They're harmless but essential to the marine environment. And they're kinda' gross. They tend to like the shallower water, so you'll have to make your way around them. Once you get into better snorkeling/swimming areas, they're not an issue.
In addition to mosquitoes, there are other "bitey" things! Janice failed to adequately shake out one of her reef shoes and a centipede had crawled into it! Big ouch! Whenever we related this story to one of the locals, they never failed to tell us how rare that was...and then tell us about the time that THEY were bitten! Make certain that you pack antihistimines. We had all the necessary stuff. Nasal spray is the fastest way to get it into your system. Raro also spoke of a local rubber plant that immediately reduces the pain. This was verified by an Aitutaki local, as well. In any event, Janice was fine, within a short time.
Trigger fish nip! The 1st time freaked me out! It never broke the skin, but it pinches. After that, the little buggers made me laugh at myself, as I danced past their nests!
As long as I'm on the subject, a well-stocked first aid kit is vital. Janice turned out to be a regular "Calamity Jane"! In addition to the centipede and mozzies, she had a close encounter - while swimming backwards - with a coral head. A couple of nice back scrapes, there. Then, in spite of all the advice to NOT rent scooters, we, of course, rented one each. She now sports a gorgeous Cook Islands tattoo! That's my girl! In the tropics, these kind of minor injuries can quickly become seriously infected. Had we not been prepared - and maintained regular attention to these wounds, her holiday would have been cut short. Pharmacies, by the way, are well-stocked and located in several locations on Rarotonga. Talcum powder, or something that includes an antifungal...very valuable. Janice swears by the waterproof bandages.
Much has been said regarding the cost of food and drink. We attempted to mitigate that through preparing many of our own meals. This worked out great, as our accommodations had full kitchens with the use of a modern propane bbq. Even so, we still wanted to sample some of the local dining spots. We had a lunch at the Pacific Resort. The food was really great. I'm just glad that the kids didn't want to go to college, anyway. A mixed drink, there, will run you about $16.00 NZ. My salad was $18.00 NZ. Of better value (and ambience) was the Tamarind House. We had some time to kill, while waiting to take our scooter test, so we stopped in for lunch. Even if you're on a budget, this place is worth the splurge. Fish & chips at Trader Jack's...yum! The Salt Water Cafe was great and the smoothies at the Fruits of Rarotonga were excellent, after snorkeling across the road. That, by the way, was one of the best snorkeling locations we found, on Rarotonga.
We took a tour with "Tangaroa Tours". This is run by Adama Wigmore and his sister, Michelle. The guy was amazing. He's never been out of the Cook Islands and is incredibly well-versed in the tradional use of the island plants and customs. Great sense of humour, too. If anything, it'd be a good idea to take a tour early in your visit to Rarotonga, so as to find out where the things that most interest you are located. I ended up going back to talk to locals and take photos.
Did I mention that we hooked up with Raro? I ended up going over to his place three times! The guy is interesting for so many reasons. Talk about a life well-lived. Thanks Elliot - for the fascinating conversation and genuine hospitality. When your place sells for a bazillion dollars, please stay in touch!
You don't have to spend a lot of money to eat, even if you're not preparing it yourself. There are stands around the island where you can get reasonably priced burgers and a beer...you know - normal fare. They've got lots of stores to buy stuff. As has been noted by previous reviews, though, the best place to buy your booze is at the liquor store near the airport. It's like "Booze-O-Rama"! And stuff I've never seen before! Very cool.
So, we did tons of stuff. Take a look at the photos and, if you've got any questions...give me a shout! ( I can't remember it all! geez!) I'll try and get the 2nd installment together over the next couple of days.
Hope y'all enjoy!
Best regards,
Mark
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| sfjetsetter00:15 UTC08 Mar 2006 | Mark,
Thanks so much for the trip report - really loved reading it & remembering the relaxed life on Raro. Especially the part about the sea cucumbers, they really freaked me out. I know they are harmless but it's still creepy. We would see lots of locals wading on the reef in rolled up pants or sarongs carrying a pucked, we were told that they were harvesting the sea cucumbers. Then I read somewhere that they can be eaten raw & were nicknamed something like "Cook Islands Spaghetti" b/c their innards are all noodley.
Anyhow, sounds like you had a wonderful trip. I can definitely relate to "Calamity Jane", if there is a way to get hurt or bitten I usually find it. Have first aid kit , will travel.
Can't wait for the 2nd installment.
All the best,
Sara
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