Backpacker in Cook Islands

Hi there

I am flying into Rarotonga as part of my NZ and Oz trip in Dec/Jan. I have about 3 weeks there and would love to see and do as much as possible so would be grateful if someone would be so kind to share any good ideas of what to see and do. I have ordered a copy of the lonely planet guide but just could not wait for it to arrive.

I have seen it is possible to rent private homes as accommodation and am considering this but am a little worried it'll get a little lonely, has anyone tried this option? It obviously depends on where the flat/house is but would like to hear any opinions anyhow.

Which of the islands would you recommed to see during this time? Is it easy to get around? Heard that the local airline has suspended their flghts for now.

Am also very interested in going out on a boat for a few nights if anyone knows of any?

Need ideas of decent cheap accommodation, good beach, good activities, how to get around, what to see and do and of course what not to do and where not to go.

I know that in some of the pacific islands you need to prebook all accommodation, is that the case for Cook islands too? Or do i just need accommodation for my first nights on arrival?

Also, as I have never been in this part of the world before, is it safe-ish (I mean where can anyone say it is completely safe these days?) to be a girl on her own?

Really, any info at all is soooo welcome!!!

Hi Sussie, three weeks in the Cooks will give you a chance to see a few of the islands beyond Rarotonga. I have no idea of your budget or age, so it is a little hard to be to specific. I would probably suggest either Rarotonga Backpackers, Vara's or Paradise Inn for you to start. You will need to have a booking for your first night when you arrive. All three of these are mid to budget and popular with younger singles (of which you appear to be). While Paradise Inn does not have a beach adjacent, you will soon learn that the round island bus is cheap and reliable transportation on Rarotonga. The most popular beaches are over at Muri Beach, once again accessible by bus. Rarotonga is quite safe, use common sense and some caution and you will be fine.

You will want to attend an "island night" dance performance, these are offered at numerous resorts or you can go to the least expensive at Staircase Restaurant on Thursday nights. I would also suggest you attend a Saturday Punanga Nui market in Avarua, lots of local food and fruits and handcrafts. Do some snorkeling in Muri Lagoon. There are a number of tour activities, the Safari Tour is interesting and takes you to a variety of sites you would probably not visit on your own. Be sure to attend a Cook Islands Christian Church service on Sunday. The singing is breathaking and you will be invited to stay and enjoy some food and fellowship with the locals, which allows you to experience the amazing frienship and openness of the islanders.

Air Rarotonga has a "three island fare" that allows you to visit Atiu, Aitutaki and return to Rarotonga. Aitutaki is a beautiful coral atoll, with a spectacular lagoon, go on a lagoon cruise and snorkel in the lagoon at Samade's Beach Bar, go to dinner at Cafe Tupuna, you can get a cab or rent a scooter for your stay. Atiu is a Makateka Island different from both Rarotonga and Aitutaki. Stay at Atiu Villas and take any of a number of nature and cultural tours. Malcom the owner will give you the rundown. The villas have a great restaurant and Kura makes great meals, jump in their new pool to cool of when you get back from your tour.

Did I miss anything? Boat trips are a bit difficult the inter island freighter schedule is sporadic and frankly a bit on the tired end of it's life. You can take an afternoon cruise on the "Hotel California" on Rarotonga or go on a fishing trip on any of the three islands, that information should be in your Lonely Planet guide you ordered (no comment).

Have a great trip!

Papa Mike
Papa Mike's Cook Island Handbook

Hi Sussie,

I spent 2 months in the Cook Islands in March-May this year, one month working for a veterinary charity (www.estherhoney.org - sorry for the plug but they are a great cause!) and one month "on holiday", on my way to NZ/Aus. I had a brilliant time, hope you enjoy it as much as we did!

1) I would recommend Rarotonga backpackers, which is friendly & usually has a good crowd there, but there is also another backpackers on Muri beach, which is supposed to be nice - I think that is called Vara's? Am not sure about staying in bungalows, I would think it could be lonely if you are alone but it depends what you want.

2) There is beach practically on every coast, but Muri beach is the nicest & easy to get to. As the post above says, the bus service is really useful, it goes around the island on the coast road every hour and is cheap. Tip: buy a pass, it will save you money! Hiring a scooter is another option which allows you to see some of the inland parts of the island.

3) Things to do:
Definitely go to an island night - we went to the one at the Staircase which is very cheap, but they have them at every hotel - well worth it.
The Captain Tamas boat cruise of Muri Lagoon (at Muri beach) was great - a boat to the outer lagoon for snorkelling, yummy hangi lunch on an island, and the guys who run it are really fun.
Hiring kayaks for a few hours around Muri lagoon is also great fun & a great way to explore all the little island.
The cross-island trek is a really good day if you like hiking, but I would recommend going with a guide - we got lost, the path is not at all clear!
Friday night is the "party" night - all the locals head out on the town & get on down to a mixture of RnB & island music - really good fun. Whatever? bar & the Staircase in Avarua centre were the places we spent most of our time.
The Sunday church services are worth seeing just for the beautiful singing.
Diving/snorkelling is fantastic, diving is cheaper than anywhere else I have been on this trip ($NZ100 for 2 dives) and we saw Eagle Rays, sharks, moray eels, turtles etc etc... amazing.
Oh, and it is well worth trying to get across to one or two of the other islands, we went to Aitutaki which is the most beautiful place I have ever seen.

4) Re: safety - it is as safe as anywhere i have been. the main crimes seem to be drink driving (be careful on the roads on a Friday night!), and the odd fight outside bars after one beer too many. The people are immensely friendly, welcoming & generous, especially on the smaller islands. Some of the men can get a bit too friendly after a few drinks, but no worse than the UK! We hitched around the island quite regularly and were met with such friendliness, however I wouldn't advise doing this on your own. Just keep your common sense about you & don't put yourself in risky situations.

Hope you have a great time, I loved the Cook Islands so much & really hope to go back one day.

Claire x

Wow, THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!! To both of you, I get so impressed with people taking their time to answer my questions. Very helpful indeed and cannot wait now!!!!! x

No problem. I fell in love with the place when i was there, wish I was going back!

I agree with both of the above, very good advice.

Don't rent a house, it's a lot easier to meet people, and probably cheaper, to stay at Raro Backpackers, or Vara's. also consider Aremango Guesthouse at Muri Beach, and Papa Rau's further along the south coast.

Staircase is your best bet for a cheap island night, and easy to meet people. The guys will be very very friendly, but in reality they are mostly harmless compared to most other places.

As you are on a backpacking budget, your biggest expense will be the inter-island airfares. No, most flights have not been cancelled. That is just the one flight to a Northern Group Island, which is very very far away (700 miles), and few tourists ever go to.

You will be visiitng outer islands in the Southern Group. all are about 150 miles from Rarotonga. Definitely you have to go to Aitutaki for a few days, beautiful lagoon. But not much else going on. If you want to get to know locals, go to Atiu, as Mike suggested. "Makatea" is just raised coral, but it means there are not really any good swimming beaches. But read up on that island, I think you would find it interesting for a few days. And you can do it for a discount if you include it with the air ticket to Aitutaki. Air Rarotonga has all details on their website.

No overnight boat tours. I'd stay away from the freighters. most are old rust buckets on their last legs.

For quick info before your LP guide arrives (I think the latest edition is pretty bad, actually) go to the website www.ck and check the links from there.

Have fun!

Raro

I'd recommend spending one week each on Raro, Aitutaki and Atiu.

I don't have a recommendation for Rarotonga but Matrikas is a good inexpensive place on Aitutaki and Marshall Humphry's is the least expensive on Aitiu.