Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Suggestions on what to do and what to see

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Cook Islands

My wife and I will be traveling to Cook Islands from Mid July to Mid August. I have made travel arrangements for the first 20 days and left the last week open. I will be staying 10 days in Raro, 7 days in Aitutaki and 3 days in Aitu. We are now planning the details for our stay and will appreciate suggestions for activities and places to see or things to do. we have also specific questions:
1- I may have to do few things for my job while there. I know there are internet cafes but how about wifi connections?
2- We arrive early in the day and would like to have the first day to settle administrative things such as getting a driver license and renting a scooter. Do I need to make an appointment for the driver license? Can it be done the same day? If not can I still rent a scooter even without a license?
3- I am an avid botanist and horticulturalist any suggestions on gardens, plants, forest, website links, etc?
4- We left the last 7 days open we can consider a 2 or 3 nights in another outer island which one you recommend(we prefer a combination of nature and swimmable place)? if we don't do an outer trip what you suggest we do (we prefer a combination of nature and swimmable place)?

Thanks

The best Internet connect speed is at the Telecom office.

You don't need to make an appointment for the scooter license test. I rent cars cars on Raro... it's safer... also you don't need a CI license to drive a car there. I use scooters on all the other islands. You can get a scooter license on Aitutaki if you want to. No one cares if you have a license on the outer islands. I think the reason they require a license on Raro is because of the high rate of tourist-driven scooter accidents there.

On Aitu Marshal Humphreys is a great source for plants, culture, etc. as well as being a great host at his homestay. I highly recommend him. Also, don't miss a chance to take a tour and beach lunch with Birdman George.

Our favorite island in the Southern Group is Mauke. Ta & Teata run the Okiva Lodge their and they can take you to see the world's largest banyan tree located on Mauke. Mauke is also known as the Garden Isle.

Swimming is limited to small beaches and harbors on Aitu, Mangaia, Mauke and Mitiaro. Check out Google World or Google Maps where I've posted pictures of all of the outer islands.

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H2ooh thank you very much for the quick reply. I will give some thoughts to Mauke now that i know better about it. Is there a web link to your rental business? or you can just send me your rates in a private message. Cost and the fact that I have never drove on the right side of the road are the main reasons I prefer a scooter.
what you recommend for Raro, Aitu, and Aitutaki?
Thanks

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Oh yes, you DO need to get a CI licence to drive a car, but you don't need to have a test if you have a valid overseas licence.

But I do agree that a car is much safer in Raro - the roads are not good and the traffic is heavy nowadays. If you hire a car to pick up at the airport the hire company will give you a temporary licence which will last 24 hours until you can get to the police station in Avarua to get the full one. And, no, you don't need an appointment for either licence. But early in the morning is a good time before the queues start.

Edited by: agingaquarian

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nelcarina... Sorry I didn't make it clear that I'm a tourist like you. I meant that I rent a car to drive when I am in Raro. There are several places there. In 2009 I rented a small car for $50NZ a day in Raro... shop around for the best price. They drive on the left side in the Cooks.

My wife and I don't spend much time in Raro so I'm not much help there. We usually just stay long enough to pick up supplies and head out to one of the outer islands. There are lots of things to do and lots of night life but we prefer the quieter life on the smaller islands. We'll typically take in an island night if we stay there overnight, the Staircase is our favorite for Island night entertainment.

On Aitutaki you can catch two or three island nights in a week and a Lagoon cruise or two. A trip to Mt. Maungapu is easy... you can drive a scooter to the base and walk up 400 meters or so to the top for a great view of the lagoon. Be careful coming down... the gravel is slippery. You can take a scooter all the way around the island exploring and stop off at the marine park tanks at the north end of the island. The best beach snorkeling is from there to the SE. It's also a great way to meet the locals and chat them up, you'll find them very friendly and helpful. If you accommodation doesn't supply kayaks you can rent them over by Samades on the NW side of the island past the airport.

On Aitu I'd definitely get Marshall to take you to a cave or two. You can scooter to the Blue Hole and the coral gardens. The fishing is great if you can find someone with a boat to take you out. TK was beached when I was there last & I couldn't get him to launch his boat. Man Unuia is a good source for information for just about anything and he might show you a Marae if he has time. The best swimming is in the harbor... watch out for boats. Take snorkel gear with you to all the outer islands. Buy some bread at the stone oven bakery in the morning around 9:00 AM. You can usually smell the bakery within half a Km or so.

If you need directions or help finding anything on any of the outer islands just stop and ask someone, they'll tell you how to find it. If you've never been to the Cooks you're in for a treat, you'll be talking about it when you get back home.

Edited by: H2ooh

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agingaquarian.... I just checked , you're right I, you do need one to drive a car. I got mine in 2003 for a scooter and get it renewed whenever I spend any time in Raro. I use it for a photo ID occasionally to see if the requester notices where it is from.

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Thank you.

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Lots of car hire places in Raro, including known names such as Budget and Avis. However, they are franchises of the worldwide companies.

Lost of people (including me) think this is the best value car hire company and I have used the other 2 mentioned. Have a look and see what you think.

http://www.islandcarhire.co.ck/

Most cars for hire in Raro are not pristine, but they do the job!

Hope this helps.

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There is a nice garden with different kinds of trees and plants. It's on the south east side of Raro and it's called Mare Nui. You can also have a light lunch there and the smoothies are good too. You have to pay a small admission for entrance to the gardens.

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Thanks agingaquarian. I checked them out, their rate is identical to Budget. I hate to say this but i rather go with Budget if the rate is identical. i do everything to support local businesses but in my experience for car rental at least i stand a better chance to have a well maintained car with a bigger franchise.

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I understand that July is winter should we be concerned. Of course the day will be shorter but my wife will be very disappointed if she will not get to read a book while sun bathing on the beach.
Thanks,

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nelcarina #10...You're kidding... aren't you?

The temp will be a high of 72-77F and a low (just before dawn) of 68-65F. At roughly 20 deg latitude there will be very little daylight loss in the winter. It's about the same latitude south as Hawaii is north.

I'm from the high latitudes but that seems nice and warm to me. Especially with 177 hours of sunshine a month!

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Mare Nui is a beautiful spot to explore for a couple of hours (cashew nut trees; who knew?!). They boast that their cheesecake is the "best in the world" and I'm incline to agree.

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H2ooh you are right. Thanks Spooner it looks promising.

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nelcarina

I wouldn't depend on Budget being any better than IslandCars. We have rented by both as well as Avis.

The last time we rented from Budget the car's brakes failed! You'll find they're all about the same.

Last time we tried Avis as we were supposed to get airpoints. Took us 4 months as Avis international had to get a paper trail from Raro - not on computer.

So, believe me, you'll be on island time and organisation.

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For info on Mauke and Mauke accommodation, see http://maukeholiday.com/</a>

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TravelingSwede thanks for the link to Mauke. we are planing to visit Mauke in the last week of our trip. We may stay 3 or 5 days. would you recommend booking from now? the airfare rate now goes for $259 NZD. We are thinking to wait until we get there in mid July to book a flight and accommodation.
One more thing we just love fish and seafood. in all our travel we try to buy fish from local fisherman and we would love to be able to do that in any of the islands we will be visiting Raro, Aitutaki, Atiu, and hopefully Mauke .
Thank you all

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nelcarina...

Mauke.... I don't think you will save by buying a Mauke return ticket at the last minute and you run a real risk of not getting one. Also if you want O'kiva cottage I'd advise booking well in advance. They have several garden units and you probably won't have a problem with a late reservation for them. O'kiva has a private lounging area out on a point overlooking the ocean to the west, very private and relaxing. The garden units are less private but there are lots of secluded beach spots just a short walk down the road.

Buying fish... After my third trip to the outer islands I found it best to find out who does the most fishing on the island you're on and then deal with that person directly. Here's why... Island politics and social interaction is always changing and you never know who's getting along with whom. If you rely on your host, and the island fisherman happens to be at odds with them, your are out of luck. But if you go to the fisherman directly they are usually delighted to see you and you'll probably get what you want. Also, it's usually a fun trip and often an impromptu adventure if you offer to pay for the gas to go along for a fishing trip.

On Mauke George and his sons provide most of the fish for the island. He's also the mayor. I've been able to find a few crayfish on Mauke and Mitiaro free-diving myself but it's not easy if you are not experienced at catching them.

On Aitu a guy named TK, an electrician for the power company, used to fish a lot but on my last trip he was out of action and I couldn't find out why. Best to ask Marshall Humphreys or Man Unuia for a referral there.

The folks on Aitutaki sell most of their fish to the resorts, including the Baxter brothers and the other charter boats. You might find a source there by asking someone at the bar down by the harbor. The morning market often has someone grilling and selling fresh flying fish caught overnight for a few dollars each. You need to get there by 6:30 get them though.

If you happen to get to Mitiaro your best bet is probably one of the young men that spearfish there. You can probably get them to bring back some reef fish for you. They also are good at catching the large freshwater eels from the lake.

Other local fare include limpets, mud crabs, land crabs, sea urchins and sea cucumbers. I like the limpets, crabs and urchins but haven't tried the cukes yet. Don't miss dinner a Tapuna's on Aitutaki. My favorite is parrotfish wrapped in a banana leaf.

My wife and I usually subsist on fish and fruit while in the Cooks. If you do that and walk around the island a few times, you'll return home feeling great!

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H2ooh Thank you very much for the wealth of information. We are already very excited.
Nelcarina

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