Three weeks on the Cook Islands - Our report

Hi,

here our report about the Cook Islands.
You can find much more details on our website: http://www.oneyearoff.net/cook%20islands,world-tour-2007,19.html
And also pictures (best of) on our website: http://www.oneyearoff.net/cook%20islands,slide-show,19,101.html

Cheers
Gilles

We spent three weeks on the Cook Islands: altogether 9 days on Rarotonga, 7 on Aitutaki and 5 on Atiu. The Cook Islands were definitely a highlight in our trip and those Pacific Islands that matched our ideas of the South Seas.

The highlights of this trip were definitely:

(x) Riding our scooter around on Atiu on roads surrounded by thick lush primary rainforest and still hearing the waves breaking on the reef.
(x) The many attractions on Atiu: to the different caves as well as the eco-tour with “Birdman George”, the historical tour with Papa Paiere or the visit to the coffee plantation with Juergen followed by the visit of the Atelier of Andrea.
(x) The Lagoon Cruise in Aitutaki.
(x) Riding our scooter on the back road on Rarotonga through the greenest possible vegetation, passing small plantations full of exotic fruits.
(x) An evening at a Tumunu on Atiu, enjoying homebrewed beer in a Bush Pub with the locals.
(x) Shopping the freshest tropical fruits, all kinds of herbs at Tauono’s Garden on Aitutaki and cooking delicious meals following Sonja’s recipes.
(x) Snorkelling in Aitutatki near the old runway.

When thinking back of the Cook Islands, the following will always stay in our mind:

(x) Impressive tropical scenery and Aitutatki’s breathtaking lagoon.
(x) Extremely friendly people, especially in Atiu.
(x) Travel really off the beaten tracks: we were only 5 tourists on Atiu.
(x) Extremely expensive supermarkets with no fresh food except potatoes and onions.
(x) Locals waiting for weeks for goods arriving on the monthly cargo boat.
(x) English backpackers descending on Rarotonga and doing nothing but hang out at Vara’s. Many of them are on the so popular “One World” Round The World Ticket: London - Bangkok - Sydney - Auckland - Fiji - Rarotonga - Los Angeles - London, all of it English spoken!

Of course, few things we should have done differently:

(x) Spend less time on over-advertised Aitutaki, which really only has a lagoon to offer to tourists.
(x) Spend maybe one or two days more on Atiu, it is so pleasant and there is so much to do.
(x) Try to see other and more remote islands, but unfortunately Air Rarotonga forces tourist to go through Rarotonga for each island, which makes it tiresome and expensive.

Conclusion?

The Cook Islands are a great destination in the Pacific: they are very scenic, offer the so much longed for South Seas flair and are very different. Budget accommodation is widely available. Hopefully, the outer islands, especially Atiu, get the attention they deserve.

Hi Gilles!
Nice to see your trip to the Cooks was so successful.
Great report, BTW! It was for me an excellent recollection of wonderful time I spent on the Cooks.

As I saw on your site you are in New Zealand now, travelling with a car. If it's not too late, I would recommend you a route on the South Island. It was a tip from a local - I made it and found fantastic:
1. Drive to Arthur's Pass from Chch. 2.5 hrs drive.
2. Drive on through the Otira viaduct to arrive in
Greymouth that afternoon - early night, and not much
to do in Greymouth - except the beach!!
3. Next morning, earlyish - drive 1.5 hours northward,
to Westport - amazing views - try to time High Tide for
the Pancake Rocks - sea-blow-holes....and factor in 15
minutes if you're into photography, or a quick walk
along the beach. Awesome beach views.
4. Westport hasn't much to see - so head inland to
Inangahua Junction, then to Shenandoah along some
lovely Buller Gorge scenery, and on to Springs
Junction - Maruia Springs (1.5 hours roughly) for a
soak in the hot pools before a 2 hour drive to
Christchurch.

I wish you success in realization of your ambitious project.
Best regards
Artur
And have a nice Easter!

Hi Arthur,

Thanks for your advice.
We will not do it in the same direction, but we will definitely integrate this in our trip.
We are now in the Fjordland.

Cheers
Gilles

Hi there, as a Canadian living on Aitutaki I was a bit dismayed and surprised by the comment "over-advertised Aitutaki, which really only has a lagoon to offer to tourists". I know it's your opinion but I've been here five months and have yet to be bored. Perhaps you have to be more of a water baby to appreciate this island? I swim and snorkel the lagoon pretty much every day and I'll be sad when I have to leave it.

I would agree that there isn't much to do on land here but I don't think that's why you would come to Aitutaki. It's probably a good idea, however, for those coming to visit, to plan more than one lagoon tour, or to rent kayaks and explore the lagoon on their own, or plan to do a dive, or go on a fishing charter, or anything that gets you out and in the water.

FYI, there's recently been an explosion of juvenile fish and the lagoon is party central! Boring? I think not!!

p.s. Glad to hear you enjoyed Aitu, that will be a stop before we return to the North.

The real attraction of Aitutaki is the lagoon, but one can spend a few days exploring as well. If one is not interested in water activities, I agree that two or three days tops might be the limit, unless you have a lot of books to read, etc.,

For islands with a bit more to do on land, but pretty much NO water activities (no lagoon), consider Atiu, Mauke, Mitiaro, or the least-visited S. Group island of Mangaia (well, it's the least-visited one that has an airstrip).

Check out www.ck for more general info and links.

Raro