Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Fiji for Five -repost

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Fiji

This ended up on the wrong thread when I first posted it yesterday. Sorry for the redundancy and thanks in advance for your help!

My family of 5 (kids ages 12, 15 and 18) are interested in traveling to Fiji in August. I've done a lot of reading on this site and in books but could use the opinions of those who have actually been there. First, a few sentences about us...We are adventurous, don't want luxury and do want something we couldn't experience elsewhere. We want to dive, but excellent shore snorkeling and exposure to culture is equally important to us. Three of us are experienced divers, I am a beginner as is my 12 yo. We are all adventurous travelers - we have backpacked for months thru central america and have been to several of the best snorkel/dive sites in the caribbean and central america. My sons are budding marine biologists. We are traveling from the east coast of the US and it will cost us a great deal to get there so we want to make sure that we end up with the trip of a lifetime (before we send our oldest off to college!). Separating out some time for diving and sometime for the other activities would be fine. We have 18 days in Fiji (plus travel days).

  1. Where to go: I've looked into kadavu, taveuni, and some of the smaller islands off of Ovalau. I read about the variability in local weather conditions and to the extent that it is more likely to be overcast, too rough/windy to enjoy the tropical air and water we would want to know that. Also, finding a dive location where there is interesting novice diving so the experienced divers won't get bored. Boys NEED to see big scary animals or they will go home disappointed - I would settle for a manta or dolphins! I'm intrigued by kadavu and taveuni, but also have looked at some of the smaller islands off of Ovalau. If we went to the Yasawas I would want to make sure it wasn't just about white sands and sun, but that the shore snorkeling was good and that there was some sense that I was in Fiji, rather than any other beautiful tropical paradise.

  2. Accommodations: My concern is that a lot of the affordable budget-midrange lodging caters to a young, partying crowd that may not be the best place for us. Also, as a family of 5 we often don't fit neatly into the size of the bures. Take something that seems affordable for one or two, times it times 5 and all of a sudden its too pricey.

  3. Weather - I know 3-5mm suits are needed for diving. Is the water consistently warm enough to snorkel without a wetsuit or does that vary from island to island. If so, where would it be warm enough to just float for an hour in August. I may be an adventurous traveller, but I'm thermally challenged!

  4. Other activities - Fiji isn't all about the ocean. Any suggestions on inland experiences would be welcome. Again, when I read that village visits can be arranged I get leery. There is something about visiting an authentic village as part of an organized tour that makes it all seem rather inauthentic. Any compromises out there? Would any locales lend themselves more to our interest in independent exploration and exposure?

Thanks so much!!!

Our family of 5 (kids aged 14, 14 and 11) have just (18/1/08) returned from 2 weeks backpacking in Fiji.

The highlight of our trip was the 5 nights we spent at Bobo's Farm on Ovalu. Bobo's Farm combines all that Fiji has to offer (the ocean - snorkelling, fishing; the jungle - walks to the local waterhole; village experience - the genuine non-touristy variety). Bobo "I'm only a Bushman" is the very best ambassador Fiji could have. So knowledgeable and so happy to share; he was willing to do things with us each day. He took us out on his boat (for a small fee) to a good snorkelling area. He said he sometimes took people free (ie no tank) diving and snorkelling with sharks, season dependent. His knowledge would not disappoint your marine biologists.

Karin, Bobo's wife is German and the beautiful garden is her pride and joy. In retrospect, I realised that the evening Bobo’s nephews turned up for kava and music, Karin’s presence had a subtle impact on how I felt. What I mean is that late at night in the jungle, with a completely alien cultural setting and local language, I think I could have felt uncomfortable or at least “on guard”, but having Karin quietly in the background as a “cultural bridge” meant that I could relax and just enjoy the experience.

The accommodation is basic but fine (we fitted our 5 in 2 double beds and a single). There are no other tourists anywhere in sight. The unexpected crowning glory was that the food was fantastic, mostly homegrown or home caught, so fresh; a mixture of Fijian, Indian was a nice German twist thanks to Karin. We ate all the local foods that we saw in the markets.

Bookings for Bobo’s are administered by Ovalu watersports which is the dive centre; they were very efficient at answering emails. They are based in Levuka, about 45 mins from Bobo’s, so to dive with Ovalu watersports you are probably best based in Levuka. We met the German owners of Ovalu watersports as they are friends (like the whole of Ovalu) of Bobo. I am sure they could advise you on your dive questions if you emailed or phoned them. We had the rain (and mud!) in January, but I guess August weather will be quite different.

In our two weeks we circumnavigated Vita Levu and Ovalu using local transport and staying 1-3 nights in 5 places. We felt completely safe at all times. We all felt that Ovalu had everything we liked about Fiji: history and cultural activities as well as snorkelling and landscape and if we went again we would just go to Ovalu.

Your comment about fitting a teenage family of 5 into reasonable priced accommodation was also a problem for us. We stayed at Fiji Beachouse (in 2 garden bure) for 3 nights at the Coral Coast. I was also worried that it might be too “young and partying”, but we found it friendly and fun (the waterfall walk and horse riding on beach were both good) and there were guests both younger and older than our family members. In Suva we used the apartment at Nanette’s Homestay a $3 taxi ride up the hill. Once again really nice people. The kids enjoyed the comparative luxury there.

Hope this helps.

1

The tendency here is to highly recommend Octopus on Waya Island in the Yasawas (http://www.octopusresort.com/), which has exactly what you're looking for. It's associated with a Fijian village a reasonable hike away, and since you meet the villagers as staff, you have context when you visit the village. The food and accommodation are very reasonably priced (for Fiji), with well-managed rustic comfort. The crowd tends to be low key, multicultural, and of all ages, there are evening activities that you can join or ignore, and it has a good beach and even a small pool.
-
Snorkeling of the beach is good, with decent coral, lots of fish, and longer swims available for the better swimmers. The dive shop is excellent, with reasonable packages, and there are several dive sites within 15 minutes by boat, some of which are suitable for both divers and snorkelers. For all of those reasons, it's best to book early.
-
You could combine a week there with a week in Ovalau and a couple of travel days betwen , and feel like you'd had a very good trip.

2

MillieBrissie, thank you! It sounds like your family enjoys the same travel experiences we do! Karlo, thanks, I have also heard nice things about Octopus. I have a few follow up questions for you and others.

Where is Bobo's farm? Somehow I envisioned us on or near the water, but perhaps a few days away for the water would be good for us.

Caqalai: The alternative I have read about, at the suggestion of other readers (from my other posting) is the island of Caqalai. If anyone can comment on the "family lodge" there and how that would compare with getting 2 bures in terms of the family experience. Would teenagers be safe sharing their own bure there?

Would it be redundant to do both of these locales? I'm gathering that they might go nicely together. Thoughts?

Thanks again!

3

We just got back from 5 weeks in Fiji - our second trip there. We travelled the main island, Taveuni, Savusavu, Mama's and Yasawa's. Hard to have a favorite, its hard to go wrong in Fiji. If your boys want the big fish, there is nothing better than the Shark/Big Fish Encounter with Beqa Adventure Divers (B.A.D.) on the Pacific Coast. Loads of sharks, including Bull Sharks, and occassionaly Tigers!! We did 4 dives with BAD, and it was one of the best things we did. Lots of places to stay around there, but there is no need to stay in this area for more than a couple of days. There are river kayaking/rafting trips that inlcude village visits that said to be quite good, but too expensive for us.

Since we were getting married (Oarsman, Yasawas), our parents joined us for 3 weeks starting in Taveuni. We had raved about the friendly people of Fiji since our last trip, so on our first night (New Years Eve) when were invited by a complete stranger to join his family for New Year's Day, it was pretty cool. 6 of us travelled to his village the next day for a very memorable start to 2008, complete with a huge feast. My point is, no nned to plan a visit, just meet some locals, they will invite you into their home. We also went fishing with locals on a couple of occassions, much cheaper than through your hotel and more fun.

Bibi's hideaway in Taveuni would have room for 5 in one bure. This trip we stayed at Coconut Grove, which has 3 small bures (two sleep 3, 1 sleeps 2). In Savusavu we stayed at Daku, a great place that has lots of different size bures. We dived with Cousteau resort for 2 days, including a trip to Namena Marine Reserve, which is our favorite dive site ever. THis trip we saw 3 hammerheads! We also really enjoyed Funky Fish, in the Mamanuca's, and it too has family bures. Great snorkelling near by, awesome views and a fantastic hike to an old ww2 fort that gives you 360 views. Octopus is a nice resort, but a little too "resorty" for our liking. Seems to me you are looking for more of a real Fijian experience than Octo offers. That being said, it is a nice spot for a few days.

I didnt use a wetsuit at all, the water is so warm there. You should be fine snorkelling. Enjoy!

4

From Bobo's it is a 10 minute walk down a track to the beach, where Bobo has a motorboat for snorkelling and swimming activities. You can snorkel from the beach, but take reef shoes. There is an entry in the Lonely Planet guide and look at website www.owlfiji.com/bobosfarm.htm

5

Yes Octopus is good for a more expensive package but you will not get much cultural experience there. The culture IS Octopus and it has far more influence on the area than the village. Fiji water is luke warm and you only need suits to dive. I wear a swim shirt year-round but only to block the sun. I was surprised it took so many responses before someone suggested Beqa...that'd be good for your boys. I know there's a good small backpacker place on the island but I'm sorry I can't remember the name. You could try Uprising because I think they include a lot in their price, but I don't know first hand. Be wary because sometimes it is the meals that will break the budget at resorts.
Also, I just answered a post for 'DIY day trips' here too so you may like to read that as well as I gave some ideas around the west. You are all going to have a great time with your love of adventure and the sea. It is possible to travel really cheaply here and 99% of the people will be extraordinarily friendly and helpful. The problem is too many great choices and too little time. Have a great time!

6

Some posters tell you that the water is warm here in Fiji, and that you don't need a suit. That is true for this time of the year with water temperatures around 28 C. However, since you want to visit Fiji during August, which will be the Fijian winter water temperatures drop to 25C sometimes even 23 C. I have met so many divers who were only too happy to have a 5 mm wetsuit, especially when driving back with the boat or having spend surface break on the boat. Don't forget the windchill; strong, cool tradewinds are common during that time of the year. But you will be able to swim without wetsuits.

And Bobo's Farm is located on the northern part of Ovalau close to a village called Rukuruku.

7

I've spent a lot of time in Central America-the South Pacific is on the expensive side comparably-if you can accept that you'll do fine.

The Great Astrolabe Reef off Kadavu Island is an amzing place-again you'd have to fly down and shuttle out to a place like Kenia but you'll never regret it.

Edited by: hardnosethehighway

8

I wasn't aware of a family lodge on Caqalai, just a large dorm and bures. The dorm would be fine if you had it to yourself but in August they are pretty busy I think. The bures are great, rustic and right on the beach,but you would need two. Safety is definitely not a problem. It is a tiny island manned only by villagers, and the boat only goes a few times a day. We left all our valuables in our bure with no worries. Safest place we have been to in our travels.

We went to Ovalau first and loved it, then on to Caqalai. Bliss! Better snorkelling than Ovalau. You walk out to it at low tide, you need reef shoes or booties. Saw sea snakes, amazing coral and big fish down below the coral drop off. It will blow your boys minds, it did ours. We are taking our 20 year old son back this April before snorkelling like that disappears forever. The only drawback with that part of Fiji by Suva is the weather, it can get grey and wet. August is meant to be good, but it would pay to check your weather maps before you head over that way. You have enough time to be flexible.
In October the water was lovely, just need to take care of sunburn on the back when snorkelling. The cheapest option on Caqalai is to camp if you have a tent. The food is fine but it would pay to take some snacks/fruit out to keep the kids going between meals. You will have an awesome time, we can't wait to get back.

9

Hi, Taveuni is the place for an adventurous family such as yours! Stay at the southern end with diving at Taveuni dive or with Pro Dive at Paradise. Paradise is a good resort with excellent diving and snorkelling - great for beginners and experienced divers. lots to do - not just diving. You can go horse riding, kayaking, hiking, or just enjoy a hammock! Last time I was there I saw manta rays and hammerhead on the local reefs. Its a new resort with good staff and even better food. There were families there when I was there too.

10