Fiji Trip Report

I used this forum to loosely plan a 10 day trip to Fiji in August and feedback on our experience might help others... We are 2 kiwi females, early 60s and wanted to see the real Fiji, not the Fiji presented in the resort and package deal market. We easily managed to get around by using local buses, boats and taxis and stayed in 5 different places in our 10 day stay. We avoided Suva and spent only half a day in Nandi which was long enough! The only accomodation I prebooked was the first night on Ovalau

Ovalau Island - first stop! Two nights at the Royal Hotel in Levuka where time stopped in about 1930, but loved the place for its charm and location. Its clean and tidy, the staff are on "island time" so its a good place to kick off, wind down and forget about the rest of the world. Took afternoon tea with Duncan, a scotsman who lives in one of the oldest houses on the island and has been in Levuka 12 years. He is a mine of information and loves to show you his lush tropical garden - cost $15 each and the friendly helpful staff at Ovalau Watersports will arrange it for you. No good swimming beaches on the island but the Royal has a small pool. The people must be the friendliest in Fiji - almost evey passerby will say "bula"

Leluvia Island - two nights at the Leluvia Island resort, the only place to stay on this tiny island.
The resort send their boat to collect you from Ovalau. This place is gorgeous - coconut palms, white sandy beach, clear water and good snorkelling. No distractions and nothing to do but chill! Simple accom in thatched burees or dorms, outdoor showers, use of kayaks and snorkelling gear and they will arrange diving for you. Lena runs the place and she is lovely - there are plans to upgrade the eating area

Nananu-I-Ra Island - two nights at McDonalds Cottages.
Boat from Leluvia, dropped off north of Suva, local bus to RakiRaki (3 hours approx for $F7.00), taxi RakiRaki to Ellington Wharf. There is a kiosk on the wharf, tried to get into Safari Lodge but full so booked McDonalds and they sent their boat over. McDonalds has a different vibe - great setting but this place has RULES and the staff focus seems to be on enforcing THE RULES of the invisible onsite owner, Maxine McDonald, rather than looking after the guests. We heard her but never actually saw her! We arrived at 4 and were told we had to order and pay for dinner NOW if we wanted to eat that night (no explanation as to why), and they wouldn't run a tab for us - "its not worth it if you are only staying 2 days". There was a hassle over the lock on our cabin and over the time of our boat off the island.

Contrast this minor aggro with the welcome at Safari Lodge when we wandered over there next morning looking for breakfast - they had finished serving, but the staff cheerfully produced what we asked for. This place has a really cool laidback but professional feel - the owner Warren introduced himself, told us of his plans for further building, invited us to stay as long as we liked, use the hammocks and beach in front of the property which we did. They play great music and offer windsurfing, kiteboarding, diving, sailing etc. The island has no roads and some expensive holiday homes but you can walk pretty much anywhere and if you want a holiday with the full range of watersport activites and/or a lazy holiday in a beautiful spot, Safari Lodge is the place, but book before you show up.

Aquarius Resort - Wailoaloa Beach south of Nandi. - two nights
Boat from Nananu-i-Ra back to Ellington Wharf and mini bus (arranged for us by Warren at Safari Lodge) from the wharf to Aquarius - cost $30 each and approx 1 and a half hours. Aquarius has a resort feel, is new and has some lovely rooms with balcony overlooking the beach - $99 - or dorms. Its quite small, lovely pool with hammocks out front, the food was very good and reasonable and the staff were all helpful and friendly. Really recommend Aquarius and they will organise tours and boat trips from Denerau.

Lautoka - 2 nights
Came here because we had a local contact. Not a lot in Lautoka, took a local bus to Nandi to check out the place - 1 hour trip and $F1.50 each!

We saw no sign of the military at all, tourist numbers are down and they deparately need tourists. Talked to lots of locals who are really struggling due to the political instability. We never felt unsafe and the people were great. Taxis are cheap, you can bargain - but not too much! Remember that the driver probably needs that extra dollar more than you do!! Taxis are old and may not be well maintained. Its easy to get around and local buses are a cheap and easy way to do it, allowing for flexibility and evolving plans! I will definitely go back!

Great report, exactly what is needed!

Thanks so much for taking the time to post your report. I'm saving it for future reference.

Vinaka jackie,

we are pleased you liked being on Ovalau.

Loloma from Duncan, Leleuvia Island Staff, Royal Hotel Staff, Ovalau Watersports staff and all residents you have met on Ovalau. Hope to see you again.

And for everyone else - there is no political turmoil here it's as calm as usual!