Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Swimming in Caqalai

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Fiji


Hi -

Just wondering whether someone can tell me whether the beaches on Caqalai are effected by big tides. We're travelling with an 18 month old water baby who will want to swim as often as she can! Is it possible to swim at low tide or is swimming limited to a couple times in the day?

I guess my other question is whether Caqalai would be suitable for a little one - looks like it'd be good (we were thinking of staying 10 days - too long?).

Thanks everyone.

I stayed on next door Leleuvia (it's slightly bigger and is an alternative to consider -- it had less of a backpacker bring-your-own-booze crowd, just in case that's a issue for you). The tides affected most of the beaches, but there were still enough places to get into the water 24 hours a day. Although, there was really only one good access point with a sandy bottom. In most places the reef came right up to the shore/beach line at low tide. So the trick is to find breaks in the reef where you can get easily into the water. While the situation will generally be the same for Caqalai you'll need a more precise report from someone who's stayed there. I only paused there briefly. The beach where the boat landed seemed usable a lowish tide.

Whether 10 days is too long for you or not is only something you will be able to figure out. These small islands (and I mean SMALL) fit a very slow-moving minimal activity way of life. Some people have enough of desert island paradises after 2-3 days. I stayed 6 days and probably could have managed longer (a group of guys, a local rugby team, was coming in to party and I wanted to avoid that!). 2-3 others at Leleuvia had been there for 2 weeks ...

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Regarding your other question about suitability for a little one ... again, Caqalai is (or 'was' when I was in the area) the resort that the younger crowd went to. This is not necessarily a problem. The island itself shouldn't be a problem in principle.

There was a couple on Leleuvia with a 4 yr old and a toddler, and both those kids seemed to have a great time. The locals were natural baby-sitters, taking the older boy out fishing etc. The youngest one seemed to have some small difficulties with the rustic conditions -- or maybe it was just the normal problems that any young child has anywhere. The parents had a contraption with them ... a black plastic bag, which they'd fill with water in the morning and let the sun heat up, so that the child could have a warm bath in the evening.

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I stayed there a few years back, so don't know the state of things now. Back then the bures were not up to much, to the point of being uncomfortable - and I am used to very basic, and small, so if it rained you would probably have to go & sit in the dining/living room. Food would be a consideration too for a little one. We had torrential rain while we were there & it was damp & dark in the bure.
Swimming would not be a problem most stages of the tide. It was easy to walk around the whole island at low tide (in places the vegetation came right down to the waters edge) - in only about 20 minutes.
Washing facilities & toilets are VERY basic. No hot water (the solar water heater idea is good). We have always had holidays in out of the way places & in local style accommodation when we can - I would not go there for 10 days, especially with a small child - although I might go back for 3 - 4 days, as reviews seem to indicate that it has improved.

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Thanks everyone for your advice - I really appreciate you replying.
Sounds like Caqeali might not be the place for us... at least not for that long. We sort of had wanted to be away from the boozy backpacker type.
I'll keep looking for our perfect island getaway.
Thanks again everybody.

: )

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As someone who has been visiting Caqalai over the last 17 years I can report quite a bit of improvement, yes washing facilities are still basic and you won't have hot water shower. Actually Caqalai is very popular and I met lots of families who spent weeks there with toddlers. Beach is very nice and safe, but it's the athmosphere which makes the place - and it is still incredibly cheap. Oldpro - it might have been coincidence that you met only young backpackers at Caqalai, because it is indeed a popular place for families.

But charlakins, you also have the other option of Leleuvia, which is the neihbouring Island - my son was 6 months old, when I brought him the first time to Leleuvia, my dauhter only 2 weeks ( btw - they are now healthy teenagers and love to go back to Leleuvia). Leleuvia has made also a lot of improvements and you have the choice of newly built thatched bures, but also beachbungalows - a weatherboard construction. Over the years the beach changes due to weather and tides, but there is always a place at the point, were you have a shallow sandy entry, no matter if high or low tide.
Leleuvia has also newly built bathrooms, only draw back - water is a bit brackish, if a lot of people are using the showers. However, staff will be more than welcome to give you a good bucket full of fresh water for the toddler.

No matter how you will decide, your child will be adored on either of this islands, and if you need something for your child, ask anyone of the staff and they will be happy to help.

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<blockquote>Quote
<hr>Oldpro - it might have been coincidence that you met only young backpackers at Caqalai, because it is indeed a popular place for families.<hr></blockquote>
Well, to be fair, I went to Leleuvia just when it was starting to rebuild. Most people were avoiding it and going to Caqalai by default, so it was getting almost everyone and perhaps a bit overcrowded as a result.

Now that Leleuvia has been improved and refurbished perhaps both resorts are the better for it.

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well, i spent on Caqalai overall about 7 nights in the begining of 2007. I would not say its a backpacker-booze-like island, i was there at the time of the coup though and at one time the island was nearly empty. Things may have changed since. However, accomodation and facilities are really basic, food depends on the number of present tenants-visitors [if you are there only two of you they dont wanna cook feasts] and for that reason id not say its fit for an 18-moths child. Even the transfers over sometimes rough sea might not be for a mum with a small kid being huged.
The island would suit more young couples not caring so much about luxury.

After all, i love that island not only for amazing snorkeling.

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We just got back from Caqalai this week.

While I was there, we saw a number of families with kids aged 10 months to 12 years.

The bures are basic, yes, as are the shower and bathroom setup, but the place seemed like a paradise for kids to me. Swimming was as people have described. There is a lot of coral around, so you have to pick your place carefully at low tide. The food was great, and the music at night was wonderful. We saw no partying at all, just mellow people, both young travellers and families, hanging around the island and getting along quite well. Some people had beer in the fridge, but nobody got wildly drunk.

I suppose it all depends on who turns up while you are there, but we had a good, quiet, fun time. And you can always take the boat from Caqalai to Lleuvia if you don't like the vibe while you are there. It costs $20 per person, is very short, and can be arranged with little notice. We didn't do this because we were quite happy with what we found at Caqalai. We stayed for 4 days and could have stayed longer. Seems like most people arrived planning to spend 2 days and ended up staying more like 6 before leaving.

Good luck!

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Thanks again everyone for your advice and experience.
I'm a little worried about the boat ride (!) but will brave it for what seem like lovely islands.
Much appreciated.

: )

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