Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Thio and Canala?

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / New Caledonia

Just got back from New Caledonia. Had a great time, though the furthest we got from Noumea was Yate in the south. We had wanted to drive to Thio, but when we asked around, we were advised against it, as it was "very Melanesian" (so we were told.) In the youth hostel, there was a sign saying "Avoid the town of Canala (aggressions)". We found out that Thio and Canala are on the same road, and New Caledonians regard it in the same way.

Now, I've spent almost a year in Vanuatu. I know what Melanesians are like. Or, at least I know what Melanesians are like in a country that received independence almost 30 years ago. I also didn't hear this travel advice before I got to Noumea - the latest LP guidebook devotes a few pages on Thio, and also mentions Canala. But LP does mention that it is the hometown of a freedom fighter - I assume the "aggressions" is due to independence issues. It would be fascinating to go back one day and explore how the Kanaks really feel about independence. The New Caledonians I spoke to didn't want to be independent from France. Although they also didn't like the French, and consider themselves to be "New Caledonians" and not French - indeed, a lot of the people we met were a mixture of many different nationalities (Kanak, Chinese, Taihitian, Italian, Vietnamese, French, etc.)

But has anyone travelled there and have the real scoop?

I found Kanaks throughout Grande Terre equally friendly and helpful (obviously less so in busy urban Noumea), and though I did not visit Canala as such, I would certanily not worry about it enough to avoid even just passing through it altogether.

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Hy !
I dont have the real scoop sure, but i just would like to say fews things about this post.
First, about Thio and Canala, it's true there are NOT the safer place in New Caledonia. But why ?? It s not because it s "very melanesian" (I dont know WHO told you that, but it s very melanesian almost everywhere in NC, and it doesnt mean more dangerous, for exemple Lifou, or the north of the Grande Terre, it s more than 90% of kanak people, and no one can tell me that there are dangerous places !!!). And it's not just because of the independance 's desire that people are more violent than in other places in NC. I think it s because of something you forget to talk about, Thio and Canala tributs are located in a Nickel Mine Area, so it's mean a lots of money to do with the mine, but also a lots of difference between the ones who get rich and the others who dont !! This explains more why it s not adviced to get to Thio or Canala (compare to all the others nice places you can get to , and actually it s more Canala the real problem), but it's of course possible to pass through without any problem (but try to avoid week end and late afternoon, cause it s drink time !!)

For the last part, when you say that New Caledonians dont like the French, I think you are wrong !!!
You misunderstand that if they consider themselves to be New Caledonians and not French, it s just mean that they want to be CALLED New Caledonians and not called French !! It s just a need to be recognize different, and that they have their own culture. It s not because they dont like french. Does anyone told you "I/we dont like the French!!" ?? I dont think so.

See you.

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