A Month in PNG

Here is a trip report about our recent trip to PNG which I hope will be helpful to anyone thinking of visiting.

We chose PNG to get off the beaten track and it certainly delivered, aside from at POM we saw no other tourists
at all ! PNG can provide a great adventure holiday if you have the funds and prepare properly.

Our itinerary was New Ireland, Rabaul, Garoka, Hagen, Wewak, Sepik, Wewak, Trobriands, and Moresby. We put our trip together with much help from Ruth Dicker of NG holidays in Sydney

Email rdicker@ngholidays.com or phone 61 402 031 222 or 61 (0) 2 9290 2055

Ruth knows PNG very well and offered lots of advice whilst at the same time taking into account our interests. She speaks fluent pidgin and knows how to work with local guides including making payments, this means you can pay her by credit card rather than have to carry cash lots of cash. It was very helpful to be able to text her from PNG to help with various questions or problems as they arose and she was always most helpful. Very highly recommended.

NEW IRELAND

We started from Brisbane (not our home but were we happened to be) and flew to Port Moresby (being assisted at the airport with the transfer by Jack (Ruth's agent in POM) with and then straight on to Kavieng in New Ireland. Both flights were with Air Nuigini. If you book international flights then you get better prices on domestic flights and the higher international baggage allowance.Our flight actually had to turn back shortly after take-off but luckily the problem was fixed and we go to Kavieng that evening. Our agent Ruth was again very helpful and booked contingency flights whilst we waited.

At Kavieng we were met by the rep from Lissenung Island who took us by van and boat to the island. We stayed just 3 nights and went diving every day - the diving is SUPERB and the resort very friendly and well run with excellent food. The cold showers were a surprise but you soon get used to it and its a sign of things to come! The island is VERY small and apart from diving there is little to do except snorkle or take out a canoe - you start to get used to early mornings and early nights! All in all a great and easy introduction to PNG

From Lissenung they drove us down the Boluminski highway to the village of Bol. We stopped off on the way to see a few sights, like the eel lady and the swimming hole as well as a beautiful beach although the sea was a bit rough that day

In Bol we stayed at Demas' guesthouse, he is a local politician and we had an interesting talk over supper with an excellent roast chicken. The guesthouse has a pit toilet and no showers, there is a local stream that people swim and wash in, which we did with some trepidation. The next day we spent the morning looking round the village and spent some time at the school with the teachers and children, everyone is very friendly and curious. The guesthouse helped us find a PMV, they are pretty frequent in both directions on the highway and we travelled to Dalom

In Dalom we stayed for 2 nights at the Dalom Guesthouse which has a lovely spot on a beautiful beach next to a stream which comes straight from a spring in a cave so is clean and fresh, this was good as it was where we had to wash. We stayed in out own little house by the river with an en-suite flush toilet. The owner is a good cook and provided all meals.

From Dalom we got a PMV to Namatanai. The highway turns from tarmac to dirt track for much of this section and the going is slow and uncomfortable. The PMV took us right into the Namatanai Hotel compound. The hotel is like most things in PNG pretty rundown with sleepy staff. but the food was OK and it was nice to have a proper bathroom alsthough still no hot water. The receptionist took us on a short tour around town, not much to see apart form the large market. The town is a staging post to Lihir, the Newcrest gold mine island, and as such there is more money around but also problems like drinking and the town is certainly a bit edgier than Kavieng. Lihir sucks up workers, materials and foodstuffs from New Britain leading to high prices for fish and vegetables. Since our trip the price of gold has fallen substantially so things may have changed.

We got the banana boat to Kokopo (see my other post in reply to another traveller for more info)

Overall New Irleand is an easy introduction to PNG but looking back now a bit 'safe'. There is also very little of the original culture compared to the Sepik or HIghlands, the plantations, missionaries and WWII seem to have largely wiped it out. I am sure it is there if you search or visit the outer islands but we had little time.

Edited by: majordom

RABAUL

The boat trip is pretty hairy but as you approach New Britain the sea calmed down and the sun came out and we had a fantasctic view of the bay and the volcano.

Arriving at Kokopo we were pretty exhausted and my girlfriend by now pretty sick so we were very pleased to be met by the driver from the Rabaul Hotel in a ute with a/c. From Kokopo it takes about 40 minutes and after New Ireland you are amazed by seeing proper roads !

At the hotel we checked in and then the owner took us to the nearby clinic where she got my girlfreind seen by a nurse who tested for malaria (negative thank goodness) but they gave her a penicillin shot and some antibiotics. The clinic was a bit chaotic and busy but the everybody most helpful and my girlfriend soon improved.

We had planned to dive with Kabaira dive but being a day late and sick we had to sadly cancel. The hotel was busy but like everything in PNG pretty run down but the the owner and staff working hard against the odds. The hotel has been destroyed several times by volcanoes, earthquakes and tidal waves and indeed was still suffering from a recent eruption (which closed the airport for a few weeks) and meant the pool was full of dust and not very inviting. Namatani had TV but a single channel (from Macau showing old movies) but here we had a full range of aussie channels. The hot water was erratic and the food in the restaurant a bit hit and miss.

The hotel arranged a day trip for us around the volcano town (largely cleared but still quite extraordinary) and to the volcano (only to the base as it was arupting and dangerous but still amazing). Price was reasonable and had we had more time they had other tours into the hills or inland to visit traditional villages.The next day we had an early transfer by the hotel to the airport on our way to the highlands.

Overall there is a lot to do in Rabaul, much more than in New Ireland and if I were to go again i would spend more time in New Britain and miss New Ireland.

THE HIGHLANDS

From Rabaul we landed again at POM. We were met by Ruths agent Jack and had a day in Moresby (see later post). From POM we flew to Garoka to meet Caspar our local guide for the highlands. We had found Caspar from internet reccomendations and having talked to him on the phone and by email he sounded helpful and knowledgeable about the hightlands and had a good hookup for a Sepik guude as well. Our agent Ruth in Sydney was happy to work with him which was a great relief as it meant we could pay her by credit card rather than arrive in a strange town with a bundle of cash.

Caspars contacts are casparguide@yahoo.com or (+ 675) 728 66 127 and http://casparguide.com (but please see my comments below first)

Caspar was there to meet us with his wife and asistant Keith who acted as porter. He immediately made us welcome and had some friut and water which was most welcome.The airport is right in the centre of Garoka so we walked a short distance to find a PMV to take us to the guesthouse stopping on the way to look around town (not much to see).

The Sitani guesthouse is very nicely situated in the hills above Goroka with fabulous views overt he town and to the hills beyond. The modern guesthouse is in a well tended compound with the owners family living in various traditional houses amongst the flower filled gardens. They have electricity and hot water!! The owner is most helpful and an good cook, The only downside is that it is at the end of a path which when wet vehicles cannot get up so there is a walk of a few hundred yards, thankfully Keith and Caspar carried our bags.

The next day Caspar arrived after breakfast to share some delicious highland coffee and plan the day. He had charted a PMV for the morning so we headed off to Mount Gurupoka. We were met by a guide in traditional dress and hiked to the top as he pointed out various plants and places and told stories about the old ways and their current traditional life. Coming back to the small settlement at the base we had a private dance performance, skeleton dance and mudmen show followed by a mumu lunch (chicken and vegetables cooked in leaves in a hole) cooked by Caspars wife, delicious and a chance to talk to the dancers. From here we caught a PMV to Kama village where we met the Chief Cowboy in traditional dress who showed us how to shoot with bow and arrow, a widow in traditional mourning and a group of young men who entertained us with courtship singing in which we joined in. All in all lots of fun and very interesting if a little hoky at times. We also bought some of the fabulous feather headdresses they wore.

We caught a PMV backl to Goroka and at our request stopped off at a bar to play darts for beer with the locals - great fun before returning to Sitani for a hot shower, supper and an early night.

The next day didnt go quite so smoothly Caspar said he had been let down by the PMV charter so we wasted time finding a public one and sitting around whilst we waited for it to fill up. Hence we got to Kundiawa late for lunch and had little choice in the small cafe but after some persuasion they made us some decent food and excellent cakes from their bakery. Being late we had no chance to look around town but I dont think we missed much. From here we caught the village owned local shuttle PMV to Midima about half an hour outside Kudiawa towards Hagen.

In Midima we met the chiefs and seemingly most of the village as well. The children put on a performance of the Ghost Dance and afterwards we mingled with them and the elders. There were several people who had travelled as Ghost Dance performers to London and elsewhere on a tour in the 1980s so there was lots to talk about. As the evening wore on they brought out instruments and started the singing and the hunting stories and then the drinking - distilled banana wine ! We slept in a traditional hut but declined to share it with the pigs like our hosts did (seemingly much as some people share their rooms with cats)

The next day we had another slow start. Caspar had said he would go early back into Kundiawa to get a PMV and save some places for us and pick us up on the way to Hagen. He didnt do this and we had no luck as all the PMVs were full so he had to go into Kundi anyway plus his phone had no charge so we didnt know what was going on and had to just wait by the road for two hours. Had Caspar been more organised we could have spent time in the village seeing the farms and hunting grounds in the hills rather than sitting by the dusty highway watching the huge mining trucks go by.

Our late start meant we didnt go into Hagen but I dont think this is much of a loss, how many betel nut markets does one need to see? We went straight to the guesthouse at Awi Orchid Garden. A tour of the orchid garden was nice enough but not worth a special trip. We then arranged a guide and we hiked into the forest to do some bird watching, sadly we heard but did not see the bird of paradise. By the time we walked home it was dark (the first and only time we broke our rule about not being out at night). The guesthouse is nothing special, has no bathroom facilities and we were bothered by crawling insects, I would not reccomend it. In a village stay like Midima this may be fine but a commercial operation should be better. We also met the only other tourist in PNG, a girl from South America!

Caspar asked for extra money for the PMVs (despite the extra costs inconveniencing us) and the beers and darts and I agreed something if he got us to the airport on time.Having twice had late starts we were worried we wouldnt get to the airport for our early flight to Wewak but on this Caspar delivered and we were there in good time so I did pay him some small extra kina and we left on good terms.

Overall the highlands is a challenging place, the roads are in terrible condition and there are few facilites for tourists and everything is very expensive. Caspar certainly took us places which we would not have found on our own and he is liked and trusted in the villages having extensive family connections. As such his clients are treated well and trusted and get to see the tourist 'theatre' as well as a more genuine experience. He does need to be a bit more organised but remember this is PNG and nothing works like clockwork. His tour prices are lower than others but it may be worth paying more for PMV charters so you can make an early start. In PNG you need to be where you sleep by 5pm so a late start can make a for very short day. I would give Caspar a cautious reccomendation, be clear what you are after and what you are paying for. I think the same applies to any guide in PNG.

SEPIK

Next stage was to fly to Wewak for our Sepik adventure. The flight form Hagen on a tiny plane over the highlands is quite amazing. Looking down at the vast expanse of impenetrable steep valleys you see tiny clearings and settlements, these people must be really isolated.

At Wewak the Wewak Boutique Hotel were late to pick us up but were very apologetic and comped our laundry as recompense. The hotel has internet, a pool, clean white sheets and hot water in a proper bathroom and it was nice to be pampered a bit. The food is good and huge portions. It is very clean and well run and athough to be frank if it were in the caribbean it would be mid-market at best here in PNG it is an oasis of luxury. We went into town which has lots of stores and several banks to stock up on food and stuff (i even managed to buy a USB memory stick) and get cash from the ATM.

Papa Jerry our guide for the Sepik came to the hotel that afternoon and we sat on the veranda drinking coffee and discussing our plans for the Sepik. He said the river was very high and there was a lot of flooding so we would need to be flexible. He also said our favoured plan might need more cash, this worried us a bit but in the end everything was fine and Jerry totally honest and delivered everything for the agreed price.

After a swim, a lovely dinner we had an early night in a big comfy bed - bliss.

The next day after breakfast we met Jerry and the driver and eventually set off for Pagwi in a truck. It was Saturday and few PMVs run so a private hire was worth paying for although this was a budget truck not a 4x4 with a/c. The road is better than the highlands but still was pretty poor in places where the rain had got to it. It took about 4 hours to Pagwi including stops for fuel and betel nuts. In Pagwi the village was flooded and all the stores were closed, annoying as we needed more water.

After a wait the canoe arrived with skipper Raphael and Timothy, Jerrys son, who acted as porter.the canoe was hired (they are plentiful) but the outboard was a new one and belonged to Jerry. We went over to Yamanumbi on the other side but the store there was closed as well so went back to Pagwi to get fuel. The guy who sells fuel had a stack of canned beer cases so we negotiated to buy some. Who needs water when you have beer? We set off for Ambunti drinking beer and everthing as alright for sure. the river is most impressive.

At Ambunti we had to walk up the hill inland to Jerrys guesthouse, Wombun Guesthouse, where we met his wife Regina. Caspar had not told Jerry that he would be supplying food for us ! anyway they cooked some rice and we had some of our own supplies of noodles and tuna (proper italian not PNG diana!!)
To make up for it the next night Regina cooked a fantastic meal of fried fish and coconut rice and vegetables. The guesthouse is nothing special but does have a proper bathroom (cold water only) and a noisy generator for a few hours of electicity in the evening. There is a big living room which is nice as the bedrooms are small.

After breakfast (bread and fruit) we set off for Bangus (or Bangwis) which is about 2 hours upriver and inland on a hill about 2 hours hike. The hike was harder and longer than usual because of the flooding, we had to be carried over some of the streams !

Bangus is a small village which stands on a small hill affording fantastic views in all directions. It is pretty isolated and gets very few visitors, most years no tourists at all, so our arrival was a big deal. Jerry had arranged for them to present a big sing-sing for us with costumes, dancing, singing and music. Very impressive. We spent the rest of the afternoon in the village talking to everyone including the three chiefs. Many villagers, especially the women, had spent their whole lives in the village but a few of the men had travelled, often working on ships. The spirit house is very impressive and the village has many carved posts from previous spirit houses (they need to be built anew every 20-30 years). These may be for sale but how would you get them home ? The villagers by agreement did not want to sell anything (head dresses, drums, jewellery and adornments) and there is no tourist trinket trade as there are so few tourists. We did however exchange gifts, they had made some decorated fibre bilums and we gave various small gifts (like needles, fish hooks and balloons for the children).

The hike back to the river was just as hard. From Bangus we stopped off in another village which sees few visitors, Mariwai. They have no spirit house so get no tourists. In fact the ceiling from the old spirit house is now in the Metropolitan Museum in NY USA. They are busy carving and painting to make a new spirit house and the lead painter Matthew gifted us a small painting of a stylised turtle. We made gifts in return and as we were leaving they took us to a house and showed us the large masks and costumes saved from the old spirit house which will decorate the new providing their important link to the past. The fact that their houses and spirit houses only last a few decades before the weather, insects and fungi get to them keeps their crafts alive with each generation teaching the next. It really is remarkable.

By now it was getting dark but there was still time to buy fish for supper from a passing fisherman. We look out for crocodiles but see none and then we run out of fuel but near Ambunti so just drift home watching the fires burning in the settlements on the river banks. It starts to rain as we walk back to the guesthouse for a well earned supper, shower and sleep. A fantastic day.

The next day we had a slow start but whilst waiting for the canoe visited the crocodile farm outpost which had lots of eggs just hatching. One hatched in my hands! Anyway they are all destined to be handbags. We take the canoe to Pagwi and Yamanumbi for more fuel and supplies (water!) and then on to Yenjen. Yenjen is one of the villages with a crocodile cult where the young men are scarified and has a large spirit house with many crocodiel carvings. They are used to tourists here and ask for small sums to see the spirit house and to pose for photographs, Here also they are building a new spirit house and there was a lots of activity carving and painting as well as canoe making. With the village seeing tourists there is a small market set up as you arrive selling everything from tourist trinkets to genuine artefacts or works of art. The sellers are mainly women and they bargain hard knowing well how much things are worth. We definitely feel more like tourists here.

From here we canoe to Kamanabit intending to stay at the main village guesthouse but due to flooding they had closed so we went to the far end of the village to the Sebby Mai (?) guesthouse which they opened up for us. The flooding had brought out the mozzies which until then were only a minor annoyance. The guesthouse is usually more for locals than tourists being very simple (no facilities) with a number of small bedrokms but aminly one large open plan room. Louis runs the house and his wife Sarah cooks a supper for everyone of sago, rice and roast fish and we all sit around discussing religion and christianity vs paganism and cannibals (of course). Not agreat nights sleep - hot damp and mozzies.

The next day it is pouring with rain, we had been luck with the weather so far all over PNG, so we decide to wait it out and continue our discussions about canoes and carvings over tea and breakfast and telling more stories and jokes. In the room were two magnifient old carvings purchased by an Italian couple for 800K but later quoted 6000K to ship them home so there they languish.

Our plans to go further down river have been scuppered by the rain and the flooding (which in the following weeks was a real disaster downstream) so we spend more time in the village looking at the canoe building until the rain stops and we head off to Kanganaman, another much visited village with a large spirit house. On the way home from here it starts to rain very heavily so we stop off at Yenjen and take shelter with Job, a carver who had showed us around the spirit house. By now it is too late to get back to Ambunti and we agree that we will stop at Pagwi and spend our last night there. Pagwi is flooded and the guesthouse at Pagwi is nothing special with no facilities but did have a proper comfy bed. We asked Jerry to find some rice and hot water for washing and making tea. Anyway this is the only time that he let us down as instead he went off somewhere and it took a long time, slightly disappointing.

Jerry says the PMV will leave at 9 the next day but a 7 we are woken up to say its leaving now so we pack quickly and head off without breakfast or anything. Jerry offers to come with us to Wewak but we feel safe in the PMV and the driver says he will take us direct to the hotel so we say our goodbyes and leave swiftly. The road is too bumpy for me to sleep but my girlfriend can sleep anywhere and before long we are back at the Wewak Boutique which seems more luxurious than ever.

The Sepik is without a doubt the highlight of the trip.

KIRIWINA

The next day we fly early from Wewak to POM and then to Kiriwina via Alotau, See my other post for more on Kiriwina and the Trobriand Islands.

MORESBY

Inbetween flights from Rabaul then Garoka we had a day in Moresby with Jack. We visited the suupermarket and chemist and an internet cafe and saw various other parts of the town which is nice enough but a day is sufficent. The parliament building is impressive but the museum is really the only place that is not to miss. It has an unparalleed collection as you would expect. Entry is free but if you go do make a donation - they clearly need the money.

After returning from Kiriwina we spent an afternoon and night at the Airways hotel. Theoretically you can get a flight back to Brisbane on the same day but it is not advised give the frequent delays and cancellations of island flights. This meant a n afternon and most of the next day at the Airways Hotel. It is expensive but it does deliver everything you need and is very well run with helpful staff. We got an upgrade and very late check out. Reccomended.

SEPIK - MORE

Just a further comment on Jerry our guides for the Sepik, Highly reccomended. His son Timothy safely lugged all our bags around and kept everything clean and dry including cameras. Raphael was a great skipper (except when we got lost trying to make a short cut supposedly opened up by the high water). Togther they knew many people on the river up and down from Ambunti and we felt safe and secure at all times. he ceratinly showed us something beyond the typicial visit and we got to meet stay with and engage with the locals in the villages off the beaten track. Jerry can be contacted through Caspar or Ruth.

You can leave bags at the Wewak Boutique Hotel allowing you to travel very light on the Sepik

During our whole time on the Sepik we saw no other tourists, indeed no other non-locals (such as aid workers, businessmen or government offiicials). Heading up the wide empty river into the setting sun on the last day with our bags of booty and the cranes, eagles and bats flying overhead was a magical experience. This is the adventure that we went to PNG for.

Thank you for your very detailed report.

It seems that your trip went (mostly) to plan.

Things in PNG so often do not go to plan.

yes partly we were lucky but also prepared - our travel agent in sydney had a clear idea of how long different parts would take and advised a schedule accordingly and was on hand when things went astray

you really do need to be prepared - mentally and physically and in attitude and equipment

whilst i am no expert on adventure travel (the interent will give lots of help) we found the following useful advice

wear proper clothing - hi-tech synthetics which are UV, mozzie, bacteria resistant and quick drying - there are limited opportunities for laundry and drying is often more of a problem than washing

wear lightweight waterproof walking semi-boots

take a torch, a spare torch and spare batteries

a silk sleeping bag liner (anti mozzie treated) lets you sleep anywhere and keeps insects away

use zip-locks and waterproof bags for EVERYTHING

dont leave food near the floor - hang any bags with food in from the rafters - rats !

take your own medicines for any eventuality - proper stuff not just a few aspirin

we took malarone as anti-malarial - purchased in europe

visit a dentist before you go - carry emergency dental filling as well

use hand santitiser and steriliser for cups, plates etc (baby bottle sterilizer is food safe) - dont touch your mouth or eyes

the following make good gifts or tips or trade goods - for children balloons, led lights, crayons, pens notebooks and for adults - fish-hooks, needles, thread, scent, toothbrushes, razors, after shave - visit a dollar store and load up with little things before you go- small gifts were always appreciated and only on a few occasions did we feel uncomfortable with it becoming begging - you need to engage with people and not just hand stuff out - in many instances we were returning gifts or favours to us - everyone of course wants money but in the more remote areas there are no shops and often they sell overpriced poor quality merchandise - for instance large good quality stainless fish hooks were much prized as they cannot be bought at any price

In PNG, gifts can smooth things out.

To obtain a telephone connection in Port Morseby, I donated two cartons of SP beer.

I also gave away my bush knives to appreciative locals.

Public transport is poor and sometimes dangerous in PNG. Most locals do not have cars. Where safe to do so, I often gave the locals a lift.

I went to a wedding in a village. The respective families of the bride and groom sat on opposite sides of the house, in order to minimize conflict. I gave a 5 kg bag of rice. My donation was recorded in a book.

FOOD

the food we were offered in villages ranged form delicious to disgusting - often in the same meal !

take some salt pepper herbs and spices - there is no tradition of adding flavour to boiled yams !

carry some backup food - sometimes there wont be any or you cant face more yams or you are concerned
about cleanliness - nuts, powerbars (note chocolate melts!), sweets etc

carry water sterilisers and a lifestraw (or similar)

we were advised to avoid any meat other than chicken - especially pork which si a problem as pigs are highly valued and if you are invited to share pork it is a great honour and refusal could offend - luckily this didnt happen to us -if you do eat pork then take some anti-worm and parasite medicine shortly after

Thanks for the great trip report! Can you give an indication of costs for your trip, excluding airfare? How much was the whole month, more or less?

My partner and I are thinking of taking a similar trip next year, but much of the information we see online leads to expensive hotels and resorts and seems to indicate that it is a very costly place to visit.

Thanks again!

our overall cost for the two of us for the month was a bit over 10,500 usd including everything from brisbane and back

the tour in the highlands was about 2,000 usd including the performances, ground transport, accomm and food and the sepik tour around 2,300 on same basis (excluding accomm in wewak)

BRINGING THINGS BACK FROM PNG

there is lots to buy in PNG - carvings, paintings, tools, fabrics etc - my advice would be not to bother unless you are buying in the villages from the people that made them

make sure you have something to wrap them - clingfilm/saranwrap is very good as it keeps them dry and protects the soft paint pigments used from rubbing off

if you are coming back to or through australia you cannot bring seeds, bark, feathers, bones etc - you will be searched and fined - solid carved wooden objects are fine if you declare them - you can send by courier to other countries from port moresby but it is expensive and they charge you for a museum inspection and a de-infestation - we paid around 200 usd for 2kg so you really need to think if is it worth it - for us it was as the objects we sent whilst inexpensive (much less than the shipping) are beautiful souveniers

update on budget - was bit confused on currencies and missed some costs - should be nearer to 13,000 USD all in from brisbane and back for both of us for 28 nights

since we were being quoted by some operators similar amounts just for 10 days sepik+highlands i think we did well

you could save money by flying less (and so seeing less) - eg missing new ireland and diving new britain instead or missing the trobriands out (which were expensive flights) - or staying in cheaper places in moresby and wewak

the PGK hs weakened considerable since march so this shouldalos make some things cheaper for visitors

if you found this helpful and visit PNG then please say hi to caspar and papa jerry
and say that you were recommended by dominic and shiva from london

same if you use ruth dicker as your travel agent - say we reccomended her - she really
helped us arrange a trip which combined the best features of free travel and organised tour

thanks and have a great trip