Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Goroka to Madang in Dec/Jan

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Papua New Guinea

Hello,

My boyfriend and I are travelling to PNG 26 Dec - 16 Jan. We plan to spend roughly a week each in Goroka, Madang and Weewak. We are flying each of the legs except for Goroka-Madang which we'd like to do by road (PMV).

I am a little concerned about the drive from Goroka to Madang. I've read that the road is hairy at the best of times, and given it will be the wet season, I imagine it will be even more so. Has anyone done this trip in the wet season?

Also, it looks like we will spend NYE in Goroka. We had originally planned to get to Madang by then, but we have some more time now so it makes sense to stay in Goroka. Does anyone know if Goroka gets at all rowdy on new year's? Would we be better advised to try and make it to Madang by then after all?

Thanks!

Hi there,

The road from Goroka to Madang is one of the better stretches of road in regional PNG. It is bitumin the whole way, except for where there may be short stretches of road works. The drive from Goroka, through the scenic Eastern Highlands, past Yonki Dam and then down to the Markham/Ramu Valley is scenic and interesting. I think you will find it one of the highlights of your trip.
Regarding wet season, it is unlikely to be rainy all day (mainly late arvo) and flooding and landslides are not prone on this section of highway. They are further West of Goroka, towards Hagen. Remember, although PNG may have a wet season in parts, it is wet all year anyway on the Northern side. You don't have the extremes of wet and dry that you see in places like Nth Australia.

Although in all likelihood you will have a hassle free and enjoyable trip, I do suggest the following:

  • Travel during daytime only.
  • Do not travel on New Years Eve/New Years Day.
  • Drive steadily and carefully. The Highlands section is much more populated and with more natural & man made hazards than the lowlands (Ramu/Markham valley into Madang) which is largely intensive farming land, with less population. People in the Highlands walk along the roads, as do animals. Houses, gardens etc are often built very close to the road side and the roads are winding.
  • Although the valley to Madang is good road, and generally straight, avoid the temptation to speed. Things pull on/off the road (eg; farm machinery etc) unexpectedly and hazards on the road (eg; potholes, washouts, sharp bends) will often not be signposted.
  • If you park the car enroute (even for a short time) do not leave valuables inside. I have personally had a vehicle broken into during a 15 min toilet/coffee stop at 9am, parked directly in front of the Bird of Paradise Hotel in Goroka. If possible, have someone stay with the car. However, don't let that stop you from pulling up at a local market and grabbing a drink and having a look around.
  • Take some small notes of cash with you. If you see a road block, it is most likely to 'tax' travelling cars. Approach steadily but confidently. Give a small note out the window (if you need to) and keep going. Do not hesitate or stuff around. Despite the stories of armed road blocks etc, vast majority of the time we are dealing with a group of young local blokes seeking some extra cash for the weekend. (so, most common on a Friday).
  • If you have a local friend to take with you, then that is worthwhile for local knowledge and they will probably tell you lots of interesting stuff about the areas you are travelling.
  • Ensure you leave with full fuel tanks.
  • Take food and drinks.
  • Get yourself a prepaid Digicel mobile phone (with credit) and get numbers of reputable people you know (or meet) in Goroka who may be able to assist if you do have a problem.
  • Know how to change the tyre on the vehicle, and check all the gear is there.

NYE in Goroka will be lively. Seek some advice from long established and respected residents (Locals or Expats) on where a good place would be to go for an enjoyable party. Don't worry about pushing your schedule to get to Madang... the Highlanders know how to put on a good party and you will enjoy it.

Regarding my points on driving, please accept them as just commonsense and practical advice.... I am not trying to discourage you from driving. In fact, you will thoroughly enjoy it and in all likelihood will have a great time without incident.
If you want more info on this area or how to go about your trip, please get in touch.

Regards,
Kruegs

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Hi,

I think you said you are going by PMV? Its no problem. I caught a PMV in the opposite direction from Madang to Goroka with no problems and I was alone. Just be prepared for the PMV to take as long as it takes to get there.

Besides, the driver usually says a prayer before he takes off, so what could go wrong, right? Haha :) Seriously, you'll be fine.

A week is a long time to spend in Goroka though, its not that nice! Try and do some trips around the area.

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Thanks very much for this info - puts my mind back at ease!

We will probably go the PMV option, but will see what people say when we get there. If it would be considerably faster to drive ourselves, and not too expensive or difficult, we might try that instead.

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it is good you have given yrselves plenty of time to travel around....a week in goroka and madang are long visits though?depending on your budget there is lots of accom in both...my top spots in (goroka) are lutheran guesthouse in centre of town...(madang)..cwa guesthouse,coastwatchers ave....(wewak) in wewak boutique hotel(top of hill).
suggested day trips around goroka...coffee plantations,mt gahavisuka park(12kms from goroka)asaro mud men,even a trip to the waghi valley(between kundiawa and mt hagen)is worth the effort,minj used to have a beaut hotel?("tribal tops).
hope its still open?around wewak,cape wom memorial park,muschu and kairui islands,trip to sepik river-timbunke or angoram.hire cars will cost you the current debt of the usa!!!!!if you book into in wewak boutique hotel-phone 675 8562100,they will pick you up at airport and drop you back(airport is 4kms out of town.)
good adventures await>

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I agree with everything said so far in answer to your questions, just a couple of small clarifications/additions...

The road to Madang (from Usino to the river crossing) is steep, winding and dirt in stretches and there are a few narrow parts due to landslips. It can also get a bit slippery so it’s best to take it easy. If you have 4WD then use it (in high range) for this part of the trip. I've driven the road about 20 times and this is what I do. A friend drove it this week and said things were a bit slippery in spots.

Most people I know in Goroka go to Madang for NYE! It would be far more preferable to Goroka. Also, a week in Goroka is a long time (it’s a great place but a bit small).

Someone told me the other day that the Highlands Highway is the world’s longest footpath/sidewalk! They are right. Take it easy.

I drove from Goroka to Lae yesterday and I'm driving to Madang on Friday. Both are great trips.

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