Ideas / tips for a trip in PNG

Hi everybody,

I am planning visiting PNG as part of a longer trip from Eastern Indonesia to the South Pacific. The idea is to enter PNG from Jayapura and to leave by boat to Solomon Islands from Bougainville.

Anything that happens in the middle of these two locations has yet to be decided (how many days to spend as well). I still don't know a lot about interesting places in PNG / transportation: what do you guys recommend? Which parts have to be done only flying and which can be done by ferry / bus?

For instance, looking at the map and at the connections on flightconnections.com, an interesting option might be reaching Madang somehow (probably by bus), then flying to Los Negros -> Kawieng -> Rabaul -> Buka (Bougainville). Do you know if it's worth doing this itinerary, or I am missing something important?

Also, what about safety? Are there areas on the route that are known to be dangerous? I only heard about the situation in Port Moresby and Lae.

Thank you in advance
Adriano

firstly you need to do your research on the borders and visas etc for entering and leaving PNG
other than by international flight as visa on arrival is not possible - you need a flexible schedule and
in both cases a plan B in case the border is closed to you - see various reports here and on the tripadvisor
forum

from vanimo (just over the border from indo) you cannot reach madang by bus - you cannot even get to
wewak by bus - you need to go bus then banana boat then bus - from wewak you can only then fly
so unless you are visiting the sepik river you may as well fly from vanimo anyway unless you enjoy
uncomfortable adventures for their own sake

the rest of your itinerary look fine assuming the flight all link up and are not too expensive which
they can be at times - you have a lot of flying !

i havent been to manus but know people who have and it is certainly worth visiting despite some trouble
from the refugee camp - not much in kavieng itself but the small islands off kavieng are great and
have fantastic diving, fishing and surfing - rabaul is one of the best places in PNG with much to do
with the beaches, the volcano and WW2 relics - i havent been to buka but again know people who have and
it is still very much off the tourist map - dont forget its a long way from buka to the southern tip of bougainville
so plan accordingly

you will be seeing the coastal and island side of PNG which is great but you will be missing out on the
other areas which are very different such as the sepik basin or the highlands

you will be visiting some of the most easy and friendly parts of PNG but take all the normal precautions
and ask around as political and tribal violence can flare up anywhere in PNG

have a great trip

Hi @majordom, thanks for this useful information.

I would like to know more about the area of Sepik river, have you been there? I read somewhere that in the north / eastern coast of PNG there are different kinds of tribes that are not found in other areas. Are these tribes the ones who live along the river? Is it possible to visit them during the trip along the coast, or you have to take an organized tour that goes up Sepik river?

And another question: how much time it takes (just travelling, without stops) to go overland from Vainimo to Wewak? From Wewak to Madang I read there is a ferry twice a week, looking at the distance I assume it would take roughly one night.

Thank you again!
Adriano

Another thing, has anybody heard of necessity to call local authorities before landing in Bougainville, otherwise they won't let you in? I read about this somewhere but I don't remember if it was outdated information

AFAIK the tourist visa for PNG includes bougainville but business and journalist visas are restricted
(or at least were for a while)

there are tribes all over PNG each with their own languages, customs and culture living on their ancestral lands

you really need to do more research before this trip - PNG is NOT like the rest of SE asia where there are ferries and buses and taxis connecting everywhere and hotels and internet cafes with banana pancakes in every town - you have to adjust completely your expectations

re. ferry see here

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/australasia-pacific-pacific-islands-papua-new-guinea/papua-new-guinea/when-is-a-boat-from-wewak-to-madang-looking-for-details-for-september-2015-sepik-tour-ideas-on-a-buget

Thanks @majordom for the further information, the thread about Sepik river and banana boat transportation is very useful. Basically if don't make stops you can do Vainimo - Madang in 2-3 days without need of booking things in advance, this is what I needed to know in order to do my plans.

We'll definitely try to arrange a tour up Sepik river; by the way do you know if it's possible to see crocodiles in that area? Can you pay somebody to take you to the crocodiles, or you have to hope seeing them from the canoes / banana boats?

you really need to do more research before this trip - PNG is NOT like the rest of SE asia where there are ferries and buses and taxis connecting everywhere and hotels and internet cafes with banana pancakes in every town - you have to adjust completely your expectations

Thanks for the warning, I am experienced enough and I know what to expect

nothing prepares you for PNG ! the travel infrastructure is minimal and fragile - easily disrupted by weather, tribal violence and maintenance issues - be flexible with any schedule

lots of crocodiles on the sepik but they hide out during the day so are not easy to find - i have only ever seen ones which were hunted or captured

there are no public canoes running like a bus service on the sepik - you either need your own canoe or are dependent on those which villages organise to/from market towns on a fairly regular weekly schedule

You can get a banana boat from Wewak to Madang around the coast. Or at least you could July 2016 when I did it. The boat doesn't go all the way to Madang - goes to somewhere I forget the name of on the mouth of the Sepik and then a bus takes you to Madang.

The problem is that there is no guarantee how long it'll take. The boats in theory leave in the morning but might easily wait for someone's brother or cousin or luggage to turn up and won't leave well into the afternoon and then, weather dependent, will get a certain distance before night fall, it might not be all the way to the town where the bus picks you up or you might end up missing the bus anyway! If you miss the bus, you're in the wrong town or it just doesn't turn up the next bus might be the morning or might not be until the FOLLOWING evening! So can take a day or more longer than any local or guidebook will tell you. You need a wide open schedule for PNG anyway. If you end up stuck overnight in the intermediary town you'll be spending your night with all the other passengers in this big open shed type thing. Great way to meet people again but don't expect a hotel or bed!

Note that when I say banana boat I'm not talking about anything resembling a ferry - basically a tiny little open canoe type thing crammed with too many people and a bit of canvas protecting you from the weather. Can be uncomfortable in the stormy pacific. It was an adventure though! Good way to meet locals! And some might have cheaper accommodation recommendations in Madang. I bought a mango and shared it with a family. We stopped at a few beaches along the way.

Banana are about as informal as transport can possibly get so obviously this isn't the sort of thing you book, there are no timetables or signs or even anything written on the side of the boat - just tell whoever is showing you around in the Sepik that you want to go to Madang next and they'll tell you what to do. They might even have a cousin or uncle or something making that same journey and who can look after you during the journey and in Madang. This is one thing that fascinated me about PNG - everybody always seems to have a cousin or uncle or second cousin etc. for any conceivable occasion.

From the Sepik itself there is also the alternative way of getting to the mouth of the Sepik- by Betel nut boat along the Sepik itself. Similar adventurous uncertain journey. I didn't do it but numerous blogs about it.

I don't know as much about PNG as Majordom but Sepik was my favourite part by far! You can do it by either:

a) having a decent sized group to split costs and organise hiring a canoe in advance. Tons of information if you look back this forum including phone numbers and e-mail addresses of the handful of guides there are. Joseph Kone was my guide - he was brilliant! Matthew Kaka ripped me off though so not so great.

b) having over a month at your disposal and asking around in Wewak (basically hitching). Obviously risks involved in this so get trusted parties to vouch for people! And you may end up sat for a week with not much to do (although any nice person you meet will probably think of something to do).

c) being rich and able to hire a canoe on your own. You can see prices by looking back through these forums.

As for safety - general view is it goes 1) Lae then 2) Moresby (not worth seeing anyway from what I heard) then 3) Hagen are most dangerous from what I hear. Getting a bus further into the highlands than Goroka is a bit sketchy in general. No town is exactly safe though - even in supposedly safe Kokopo I heard nasty stories. Just take all the usual precautions, let locals show you around and if a local says don't do something then don't. PNGen's are great but they are a fiery people. Highlanders are famous for being hot blooded but Sepik folks are also like that, islanders are more laid back. I saw a whole village engaging in a machete fight in the Sepik! They are very protective of foreigners though! Obsessively and even frustratingly so at times! Some locals may mean you harm but the majority will be doing everything they can to keep you safe to a crazy extent. Just go with it.

tl;dr: If you have a wide open timeframe and don't mind discomfort risk and adventure there are ways - just get advice from locals. If not book a flight now! (they need to be booked far in advance or prices shoot up) Although to be fair even if you book a flight time, discomfort, risk and adventure is par for the course for PNG anyway.

Hi @geoffff, thanks a lot, that was really useful.

Apart from price, do flights get very crowded and booked out? If I wanted to buy a ticket directly when I am there with a day of advance, do I have chances to find place?

And another useful information: is there mobile coverage in towns like Wewak and Vainimo?

Thanks

Flights don't actually run everyday for a lot of routes anyway. I think you'd probably find something in a few days though. I haven't tried booking at short notice though - the only airlines are PNG Air and http://www.pngair.com.pg/en/ Air Niugini - http://www.airniugini.com.pg/ (excluding the missionary one - MAF - as I have no idea how that works as it's not like a normal airline you can book) so I'd just do some searches now to see what short notice availability and prices are like for the routes you want and which days they both go which routes. Note that sometimes they don't fly due to bad weather, especially out to the islands.

There's mobile coverage in Wewak, haven't been to Vainimo but would be surprised if there wasn't. Mobile coverage in general is not quite as non existent in remote place as you'd think as even people out on the river use phones. Out on the river there would typically be one village in every little cluster where you can climb a hill and get patchy coverage. Better in "major" places like Ambunti. Locals know the spots. IIRC there are two main mobile companies which have different coverage so get sim cards for both as soon as you arrive at Moresby airport and top up whenever you're in a town.

Hi Adriano,
My only purpose in writing this is to wish you good luck and have a great trip!
Exactly 50 years ago I lived in PNG for a year. I enjoyed reading in the replies above about buses, internal flights, even mobile phone cover......I leave it to you to imagine what it was like 50 years ago. Transport was basically two feet - sometimes for days on end - with an occasional canoe if a river was involved.
Obviously I have no practical suggestions at this distance in time except perhaps to take all the medical advice you can get. I see from your profile that you've been around a bit so probably this advice is superfluous anyway.
Take care
Old Joe.

Thanks @OldJoe :-) I am sorry I cannot go back in time at when you have lived in PNG, it must have been great

buy a digicel sim card as soon as you can - do not get any other provider as the coverage is poor outside the cities

unless you are a missionary you cannot rely on MAF - cannot book except in person and they will bump you or choose not to fly at a whim
can be useful though when few other options

Dont count on being able to book flights a few days advance in PNG, except if you are in major city.

Re arriving in Bougainville, you should be fine. Things may always change but two years ago, I did exactly what you are planning - entering at Vanimo and leaving via the inofficial crossing to Solomons by boat from Buin. Read up on the trip reports of people who have done this, cant really play this by ear (including how to move onward on the Solomons side and get the proper visa in Gizo).

We went part of that way in September 2017. We got our Visa from the PNG consulate in Jayapura (in fact it is in a neighbouring town called Entrop) within four days and for free. Then we went to the border at Wutung and the crossing was straight forward. From the border to Vanimo it is really convient as there are lots and lots of PMVs (public motor vehicles, meaning vans or pickup trucks) going which cost very little person. Just make sure you change money before getting across, there is a moneychanger with good rates right in the border station.

From Vanimo to Wewak it was a two-step journey as the road between Vanimo and Aitape (about midway) was not passable at that time. So we took a banana boat early in the morning to Aitape and from there a long and exhausting trip by PMV...luckily the boat people arranged that for us so we got to sit in the cabin and not on the back up the truck in the dust and rain... Flying is also possible, the planes are up-to-date and it is not so expensive. But you definitely miss out on an experience that way. We were told that there are no official ferries currently running anywhere along the coast east of Madang. Check out the Wikitravel articles, I updated them when I got back.

From Wewak we again took a PMV to Angoram, one of the bigger settlements along the Sepik. Our host (Francis at the WAVI Guest House) arranged a very nice tour guide for us, knowledgebale and fun, that took us on a one-day-journey to a side arm of the Sepik and to some villages...one of the most fascinating things I ever did. If you want, I could get you in touch with him. There are also the possibilities of sleeping in some more remote places, one of the villages along the river arm had a very basic guest house, which looked uttlery fascinating to stay. The guide can arrange all that.

Cellphone coverage is surprisingliy good and you should get yourself a local sim card(really cheap) because places with WIFI are almost non-existent.

We felt very safe during our trip, mostly because we were instantly adopted by some people. Also there was no ripping-off, we always paid the same prices like the locals. We are caucasians so easily distingishable as non-local. But we witnessed some weird situations and some people are definitely on the edge around in PNG.

But as other people already stated, you cannot really plan ahead most of the time because you have to rely on informal means of transportation that might run as planned or not. Having said that, it is probably one of the most fascinating destinations right now because it seems like in the places we went, they hardly get tourist (and were quite happy about Europeans visiting).

If you want to know something else - or want the contact to the guide from Angoram - just write me a message.

Hi @locnuclear686896!

Yes, I'll definitely need the contact of the guide, that would be very appreciated.

How did you find him? With how much advance you contacted him?

Thank you!
Adriano

The other way around from Wewak to Vanimo took me two days: from Wewak tot Aitape by 4wd, from Aitape to Vanimo by banana boat (quit a rough ride).

In my reaction to the posting about the Sepik River, I gave some recommendations for PNG.

Note, when visiting West Papua, don't forget Wamena and a trekking through the Baliem Valley

This post has been removed because it may not have met our community guidelines.

Hi! The trip will be in August; it will be part of a longer trip so probably I won't have time to write a proper report before the end of the year, but I'll definitely do it when I have time

This post has been removed because it may not have met our community guidelines.

We went part of that way in September 2017. We got our Visa from the PNG consulate in Jayapura (in fact it is in a neighbouring town called Entrop) within four days and for free. Then we went to the border at Wutung and the crossing was straight forward. From the border to Vanimo it is really convient as there are lots and lots of PMVs (public motor vehicles, meaning vans or pickup trucks) going which cost very little person. Just make sure you change money before getting across, there is a moneychanger with good rates right in the border station.

From Vanimo to Wewak it was a two-step journey as the road between Vanimo and Aitape (about midway) was not passable at that time. So we took a banana boat early in the morning to Aitape and from there a long and exhausting trip by PMV...luckily the boat people arranged that for us so we got to sit in the cabin and not on the back up the truck in the dust and rain... Flying is also possible, the planes are up-to-date and it is not so expensive. But you definitely miss out on an experience that way. We were told that there are no official ferries currently running anywhere along the coast east of Madang. Check out the Wikitravel articles, I updated them when I got back.

From Wewak we again took a PMV to Angoram, one of the bigger settlements along the Sepik. Our host (Francis at the WAVI Guest House) arranged a very nice tour guide for us, knowledgebale and fun, that took us on a one-day-journey to a side arm of the Sepik and to some villages...one of the most fascinating things I ever did. If you want, I could get you in touch with him. There are also the possibilities of sleeping in some more remote places, one of the villages along the river arm had a very basic guest house, which looked uttlery fascinating to stay. The guide can arrange all that.

Cellphone coverage is surprisingliy good and you should get yourself a local sim card(really cheap) because places with WIFI are almost non-existent.

We felt very safe during our trip, mostly because we were instantly adopted by some people. Also there was no ripping-off, we always paid the same prices like the locals. We are caucasians so easily distingishable as non-local. But we witnessed some weird situations and some people are definitely on the edge around in PNG.

But as other people already stated, you cannot really plan ahead most of the time because you have to rely on informal means of transportation that might run as planned or not. Having said that, it is probably one of the most fascinating destinations right now because it seems like in the places we went, they hardly get tourist (and were quite happy about Europeans visiting).

If you want to know something else - or want the contact to the guide from Angoram - just write me a message.

Hi Locnuclear

I am planning to do a 16 day PNG trip and cover New Ireland, short visit of Highlands and 4 day visit (doable?) of Sepik.
Could you please help out with idea if it's in general doable and any cool contacts, especially for Sepik (and/or Highlands). Thank you so much. Very nice and interesting reading of your travels.

Tom

Hi @adrdilauro

How was your trip in PNG? I am reading the way you are/were trying to organise your trip there.
I am planning to do a 16 day PNG trip and cover New Ireland (5-6 days), short visit of Highlands (3-4 days) and 4 day visit of Sepik (possible?). Do you think it's doable according to your latest experience?
Please let me know how your travels went ,I am keen to hear ideas/recommendations must do and donts :)
So much big thanks in advance

Tom

Hi @locnuclear686896!

Yes, I'll definitely need the contact of the guide, that would be very appreciated.

How did you find him? With how much advance you contacted him?

Thank you!
Adriano

Sorry, bro... just reading you will be there in August.
I am arriving in Jun 23. Do you have some contacts for Sepik and/or Highlands? I can "test" them for you :)

Speak later

t

Hiya Joe

Are you traveling to PNG?
How are your preparations going? I am planning to do a 16 day PNG trip (23 Jun is the start) Tom
This is a post I prepared for it and looking for any hints/contacts and ideas.
https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/australasia-pacific-pacific-islands-papua-new-guinea/topics/png-solomon-islands-looking-for-ideas-recommendations?page=1

Any help, thanks in advance!

Tom
> Hi ,
>
> Like to confirm with you if you have completed your trip.
>
>
> Thank you
>
> Joesph

This post has been removed because it may not have met our community guidelines.

This post has been removed because it may not have met our community guidelines.

Hi Joe

You are a guide? I thought you were a traveler looking for information also.
Please drop me an email to tombiros@gmail.com of what you are offering.

Regards

Tom

Hi Tom,

Please do contact me on my e-mail contact details; joesph.kone06@gmail.com
so we may have your itinerary sorted out in advance ASAP.

Awaiting your earliest response today through my e-mail contact.

Thank you ,

JosephJo

Hi @tomassko

what do you know of New Ireland? I am still looking for ideas and any new information is good

I mean, why you preferred New Ireland over, let's say, New Britain and Bougainville?

please beware of this scammer who impersonate to be joseph but give you fake email: the email joseph.kone06 is the scammer email. The real joseph has a facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/josephkonesepikrivertourguide/?ref=bookmarks

Please beware of this scammer who impersonate to be joseph. the scammer email is joseph.kone06
The real joseph has facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/josephkonesepikrivertourguide/?ref=bookmarks

the real joseph kone the well known sepik guide is in prison for stealing money sent by an israeli tourist for artefacts he had collected

this is the news direct from the sepik

Majordom I am the israeli tourist. The details you provide are not correct and I try to understand why do you give the scammer email address, you have no idea how much many tourists has fallen for the scammer you are publishing and lost their money. The scammer is not the real Joseph. I suspect maybe you are the scammer?

i am not the scammer and i have not put out any email addresses for any joseph kone

i think any sensible reader would question your motives - see my warnings here and elsewheree about new user accounts set up who only make posts promoting specific guides

the real joseph kone is in prisonfor fraud so who knows if the scammers were him or not

Majordom i am the israeli tourist who put Joseph in jail. On page 3 you can see the scammer published his email joseph.kone06. I thought it was you and if not I apologize.
beside traveling with him and knowing Joseph for 2.5 years I also managed his Facebook page and helped him to build his reputation and assisting his clients.

I planned a very unique and long journey with Joseph but he stole all my money so I had to put him in jail.
But I decided to use the Facebook page to assist travelers to find reliable guides and avoid what happened to me.
Besides Joseph there is a scammer who impersonate to be Joseph and take money from innocent travelers.
I am apprproched on a daily basis by people who lost all there money and think they spoke to the real Joseph. I try to help them as much as possible.
I also try to organize Sepik guides to give service in reasonable prices and without taking all the money upfront.
I do all of this because the people of png are great and honest and they are damaged by people like Joseph, the scammer and other non reliable guides.
After what happened to me was published in the National newspaper I was approached by many png people who apologized and are now assisting me in my goal to make sure something like that will never happen again.

you need to mke it clearer that you are warning people - it comes off as you advertising kone through this page which would be crazy if he stole from you

You may be right but at the moment I do my best to wipe off the scammer. Lonely planet already removed all his posts but missed the reply i saw here. I work with the png police to catch him and trip advisor are also moving towards removing all his posts. It’s not easy but I will nail him at the end. I am working on this for 4 month already since the time he miss led me too. I encourage anyone who lost his money with this guy to approach me. I cannot specify here everything we know but if the scammer read what i am writing he knows me and knows I know who he is. I can only advise him to disappear from the face of earth. That’s the only thing that will save him from jail too. Him and his associate in Kainantu. Yes there is another associate.

Hi Putiru,

Am very much interested to know more about this concern as I've also been scammed by someone, whom he is based in Kainantu.

Please PM me on email address:

alamairac.2@gmail.com

https://www.scamwatch.gov.au/get-help/protect-yourself-from-scams#follow-up-scams

In the end I wrote the travel report at this post: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/australasia-pacific-pacific-islands-papua-new-guinea/papua-new-guinea/png-travel-report-august-2018

I just wanted to mention here a couple of interesting places I wrote in my bucket list for next visit to PNG (if somebody is looking for ideas):

• Trobriand Islands (for those who don't know the story, read https://bit.ly/2Ut5R60 and https://bit.ly/2Kw73Bg)
• The tribes of the area of the Fly river + Murray lake, especially the Gogodala Canoe Festival
• The Ninigo Islands, some hundreds of km north of Wewak, inhabited by Micronesians which culture is still apparently untouched (the only way to reach them seems to be via ferry from western Manus)
• Southern Bougainville, which unfortunately I missed during this trip
• Nukumanu Atoll (but I don't see how to get there without your own boat...)
• Visit Hoskins bay connecting overland with Rabaul

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