Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Itinerary help

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Papua New Guinea

Hi all,

I'll be visiting PNG for about a week in February. I understand its not the ideal time to travel due to rainy season, but hoping I can still see some worth sights.

I'm basically deciding between visiting:

(a) Goroka and Madang, or
(b) Rabual

with most likely a full day in Port Morseby on either itinerary.

My main priorities are: unique cultural experiences (music, singing, art) and natural phenomenon. I'm less interested in beaches and diving as I'll be heading to the Solomons after for some beach time. On face value, I think I find Goroka and Madang more interesting, I am slightly concerned about taking a PMV between these towns during rainy season (does anyone know if they still run?). I'm very keen to hear other's people thoughts/comparisons on the potential differences between these itineraries.

Thanks!

the pmv will still run but could be disrupted or take even longer

it is the wet season in moresby and highlands but on north coast and islands weather is much more variable

from goroka you will need a guide to get out into the villages to meet people and see sights like treks biirds mountains etc
on a short trip you might be lucky and see lots or unlucky and be stuck in town

the coast around madang is more developed and there is less traditional life unless you take a long ride or short plane hop to somewhere like tep tep

lots to see aroind rabaul - villages volcano ww2 stuff etc - much more than madang
but then you will miss the highlands

see trip reports here and on tripadvisor

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Thank you - this is so helpful! Maybe i will just allocate more time to Goroka and go to Madang for a night or 2. Rabaul does look lovely, but it would be a shame to miss the highlands!

A few questions -

  1. How much should i budget for a 'guide' to get out to villages etc.?

  2. How 'wet' is wet season in the highlands? (I know this is difficult to answer) - I guess what I'm looking at, is this sort of a few hours of hard rain in the afternoon? Or am i silly for even considering visiting?

Thanks so much!

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its been a while since i was in the highlands - suggest you search more for some better answers
but it all depends on what you want to do - if you want to see organised sing-sing then that will cost more
trying to do anything do your own though is not really an option - you cant just walk into a village
and hope for the best - unless you have a lot of time and a flexible agenda - a guide will know where
the birds and animals are and get permission to enter the land - they can arrange sing-sings (big or small)
and mumu feast, art and craft demos etc. - 50 kina a day is a basic wage - 100 kina is good pay but
an experienced guide will probably ask for and deserve a bit more

very wet - plus its not like a monsoon with rain every afternoon - it might be fine for a few days and
then rain for 3 days and nights - if you are unlucky you will not see much and even be stuck due to weather
in any case prepare to get wet

https://en.climate-data.org/oceania/papua-new-guinea/eastern-highlands/goroka-50976/

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Thank you Majordom, you have been so helpful!

Given your enthusiasm for Rabaul, I'm considering doing 4 days in Goroka and then flying (via POM) to Rabaul for 2 nights, before returning to POM. I understand flight cancellations/delays are common in PNG, so now its a question of whether I spend a day on a PMV to Madang, or risk taking a number of flights. Any thoughts would be awesome!

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i would say go to rabaul rather than madang - the weather is more likely to effect the PMV than the plane
and there is much more in rabaul than madang (especially if not diving)

PNG is always a gamble - especially on a short trip - you could get delayed and stuck somewhere with little
to do or you could be lucky and meet someone and get to see a genuine ceremony or go hunting together
you just have to go with an open mind and an adventurous spirit

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Hi Majordom, you mention that the daily cost for a guide in the hinglands is between 50 to 100 kina. What about the costs for sing-sings? (I have read that depending on the money you offer the villagers put more or less effort and people into the performance). Also, included in the cost of the guide is the transportation or a car should be paid separately? I am just trying to find out how much can be a cost for a day of activities around Goroka. Thanks!

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vehicles are much more expensive than gudes !

if you use PMV then you pay for the trip and the guides trip as as well

often you will find the guide is also expecting to be fed !

not sure on exact prices around goroka but a car for a day could be anything from 500 kina up
depending on vehicle - if you have a one way trip then you will have to pay for the return as well

a sing sing price will vary enourmously - if you are staying in a village then some villagers may
well give you a small welcome or a few songs after food just for coming to the village - otherwise
look at maybe 200 kina for a small group to sing and dance in traditional dress for 30 minutes
after that prices go up depending on the number of people etc

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Thanks a lot for the extended info! I understand it is difficult to talk about exact prices, since there are so many variables to bear in mind. I understood from your words that it is possible to do some visits to villages using PMV, reducing the cost of the journey. Some more questions just in case you know the answer:

-Any idea about the price to spend a night in a tribal village? I guess we should also pay fot the guide's accomodation...
-What villages worth a visit? I know about the famous Giremiaka village, of Asaro tribe; also heard about Gurupoka, guests of Himakupo tribe, but don't know how easy/good it is.

Thanks!
Juan

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village accommodation in a guest hut could be anything from 30-80 kina per person per night - at the lower end
you just get a room space in a hut at the higher end a net, mattress sheet and blanket (not necessarily
clean!) and fire and water - pay more for food, clean sheets, electricity etc

if you are in the village and spending money generally your guide will be staying free - often in fact the village
will pay him to bring you !

every village has something to offer - to me its always more about the welcome you get - some of the more spectacular
and visited villages will treat you just like a tourist - thats what they expect to offer and think everyone wants - if you want to get behind this then you really need to have a good introduction through a trusted guide

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Thanks Majordom! Definitely I am not interested about a "tourist welcome" sort of village. But I guess it has to be expensive and difficult to go beyond that. You mention the need of a good introduction through a tursted guide, any suggestions about guides in Goroka? It could be good to contact one and ask him for the options.

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