Just Returned - Lae, Goroka, Mt. Wilhelm and Madang

G'day,
I just returned from a month travelling PNG over the election period. As I work in the tourist industry as a 4x4 guide on Fraser Island in Australia, and meet so many people, I was wondering what was going on with the lack of tourism in PNG. I learned.
PNG's lack of infrastructure and complete loss of financial management, planning or maintenance makes the country interesting - to say the least, to get around. Accommodation was well overpriced and their marketing systems are more or less defunct - trying to call a place is always interesting. Why this is the way it is was provided from many points of view by the locals, but the answers were not forth coming. There is no real excuse why a crappy hole in the wall hotel surrounded by barbed wire and a filthy shared toilet is 160K a night ($80 aussie - the Travellers Inn - avoid!). What I did come to terms with is that as a white fellah (and the only traveller - non worker/researcher for a month.) I was perceived as a Mine worker, missionary, geologist, scientist and well all of the things that I fail to be perceived as in my own country. This being the case, in theory I would be loaded or able to help... but alas, not the case.
I walked and caught PMV's in every town I went to (Lae, Aseki, Bulolo, Kundiawa, Goroka,Kainantu, Kegsugl, Madang) and never had a single problem, except for a half blind old pickpocket which the PMV people scared off and I was not particularly intimidated by. Otherwise people were incredibly kind. Some of the kindest people in the world. You do need to shake their hands, and they will smile, which personally I really like in a culture (I carried small bottle of hand sanitizer liquid with me - kept me friendly and clean). So while the fears of violence might exist (didn't go near Port Moresby) and I did see people beaten for petty crimes, I never felt that feeling. And I have felt they dodgy feeling many times in the States and Australia, and it didn't always end pretty.

I did not go out at night, more because it didn't interest me. Get to know your Won Tok... it is essential. I think giving out bananas and fruit to security and reception staff kept me in the good books, and willingly offering fruit to others around seemed to be greatly accepted. Fruit is amazing and dirt cheap from the markets. The food inside any shops was pretty rank and unfortunately just greasy batter. But if you are fortunate enough to be cooked for, then enjoy the traditional cao cao. Lots of cao cao. Watch out for crap knockoff products from the asian region - fake oreos, all that. Unfortunately for the natives, the products for the most part filtering into the country are what we would probably ban in the west.
PMV's are a wild experience. Ask before you get on any long rides. They tried to con me three times there. It can be pretty sketchy for the faint hearted. I took overloaded 4WD's razorback roads, and tray backs at high speeds on winding roads, and busses that had that feeling of toppling at any moment. All without seat belts as these are considered more of a decoration of the vehicle in PNG. It is cheap and it is wild. Flights are ridiculously priced thanks in part to corruption and monopoly.
I recommend the following places to stay in. This was after researching all of the Lonely Planet Guides options and the internet. Please note that all of the prices in the Lonely Planet Guide are outdated, and many places are no longer in operation. Expect to pay almost double if not triple the prices.
Lae - Stayed at the Rainforest Retreat at Unitech (university grounds). It is set amongst gardens and a small zoo where I woke to greet tree kangaroos and birds of paradise every morning. Angela and Kari are presently running the place and they were both friendly and helpful. The place has shared bathrooms with fairly standard shower and toilet (don't expect hot showers unless you are rich in PNG) which could do with some work. A shared kitchen with everything to cook is available and a small market is down the road for fruit and veg and of course, cao cao. It was 80K a night and I had a room to myself with a single bed. Laundry was available for a few Kina. Lae is not the most alluring of places, so to be able to get away from the mayhem of downtown and find myself surrounded by tended gardens and cute animals with worker housing and security, was a pleasant find.
Goroka - Stayed at the Research and Conservation Foundation accommodation, where breakfast was included and again the rooms are shared for 90K a night. I was often meeting a variety of scientists and linguists connected to the University of Goroka (an amazing campus) so the experience was fascinating and it was nice to talk to others experiencing PNG. Goroka does have amazing weather and the food in the market was great - fresh pineapples, passionfruit, bananas - woofers eat your heart out.
Kegsugl Mt. Wilhelm - I stayed at Jehovas Jireh next to Betty's which has shot up in price to 250k, or so I was told. I was offered discount at Jehovahs by Martin (A big bloke worth saying G'day to, excellent host) as it was election time and the venue was crowded. Hell, tell him that you heard from Geoff that his was a great place to stay - see if he'll give a small 'Geoff' discount (we had a long conversation about the tourist industry in PNG). They had a great orchid garden, fresh produce was cooked - as accom included three meals, and while the building itself was not the warmest and the showers are reliant on solar power, it was a fine relief to return their after scaling the summit. Getting there and back is a mission in its own right, and I dare say the right up about the road in Lonely Planet has improved much.
Madang - The last week I spent exploring the area and stayed at a wonderful little spot - which bang for buck was actually priced correctly. Madang Lodge was 120K a night ($60 Aus) and included a private room with two single beds (extra guest 30K), manicured gardens filled with orchids and sculptures, shared bathrooms with hottish water, a gym and pool, and a coast side restaurant and bar. The staff were excellent in their efforts to answer my many questions and always pleasant. Book ahead so that you can secure what you want at the right price. Great spot in Madang! I caught PMV's and little boats all over the area, and found this cheap, fun and safe. Get out to see Simon at Siar... what a bloke. Janis Aben resort seemed to have let the diving side of things slide.

Simple things I did to avoid problems and get what I wanted,
Smile often.
Ask questions all the time.
Acted like I knew the place well.
Never flashed anything around that might attract more attention than I was already receiving as a white traveller. Never pull out big wads of cash.
Wore grungy clothing.
Stopped to talk to people, particularly when there were others around. Tried to communicate using hands and show expression.
Shake hands - carry sanitizer.
Be wary of when you take photos, but show the photo where possible.
If you give a gift, you may need to give many. Consider this. Soap and salt is popular should you go to remote villages.
Show interest in everything even if it doesn't interest you, people appreciated this.
I placed small change in one pocket (for markets and PMV's) and big change in another so that I would only collect from one pocket often.
I used BSP bank as they had less fees with my aussie bankcard and did not let the security guard make the transaction for me. (you'll see)
Always asked up front how much a tour or something was - the locals won't say otherwise.
Shake your head if the price is steeped and pretend to go elsewhere.
Eat fruits and veggies that are originally 'covered' : bananas, passionfruit, corn on the cob, peanuts. Avoid roadside chicken options...
Pat pockets regularly and casually and be aware of both children and adults brushing or patting them.
Whenever standing still with bags and things, sway and rotate a little, this wards of thieves.
Explore by day, rest by night.
Take malaria pills (met an american fellow that got the version that is treatable - still looks like it sucks)
Check your tour guides are prepared (My guide for Mt. Wilhelm had no food, water, or torch. Lucky I had all of the items in excess, but I suffered at the summit as my projected water supply was halved. In Madang on a snorkel tour a Russian girl was stung by a Box Jellyfish, and the overall concern was not exactly forthcoming by the tour guides).
Have a good time!!!!!

Awesome post Geoff! Seriously, so much gold in there. So glad to hear that it's not the horror story so many people make it out to be. I'm planning a long trip in August and part of it will include the area you've just travelled.... I have so many questions!

Q's
How long were you there for?
Did you fly from POM to Lae then PMV to Goroka - Kegsugl - Goroka - Madang then fly out to POM again? What was your itinery?
Did it change at all?
Did you need a tent at all? What about gloves and beanie etc? How cold is it up Mt Wilhelm?
Were there many other backpackers along the way?
How does the diving stack up to the Barrier Reef?

Definitely make sure I take extra supplies to Mt Wilhelm - that's the 2nd person who has mentioned their lack of self supply.
Also the update on accommodation is a relief, even if it is more expensive - everyone has said the Lonely Planet is very out of date. Not surprising though considering the volatile state of the nation.

Cheers! Nick.

Thanks for the info.

Great info, a keeper!

Great post, I'm heading to New Ireland & New Britian in a couple of weeks, cant wait!

Hi All,

I will go to Madang and head inland for Mt. Wilhelm in a few days. I am wondering if it is worthwhile to bring camping gear (tent, stove,..) on hiking trips through the mountains of PNG?

Thanks