Lae and Morobe

Not sure where the last posting ended up so I'll try this again.

I might be moving to Lae, and apart from the Australian Govt's shocking write up about it and the LP's section on Lae, I can't find too much info.

Anyone been to or live in Lae? will I get robbed at night? or the day for that matter? much in the way of eating and drinking? are weekend trips snorkling possible?

I spent a couple of months in Oro Province 15 years back so I know the basic PNG scene but that was in the countryside, not a big city, and I'm a little worried about general lifestyle, don't want to be shacked up in a compound in my spare time.

Cheers

One of our regular posters "PNG_Mangi" actually lives (or lived) in Lae with his wife, quite happily. I actually stayed with them when visiting the town, and heard no horror stories.
Of course, PNG in general is not the place for lonely night walks in any city or town!
Lae is in fact quite small - don't expect a huge expat scene or a wide range of places to eat oir go out.

In no uncertain terms Lae is a dangerous place for both nationals and expats alike. It has been rated as one of the most dangerous places in the world to like outside of a war zone. The main problem with Lae at the moment in 'the miles' from 2 mile to 9 mile just out of town towards Nadzdab airport. I stress that any time of day morning, noon or night you can be held up by a large gang of rascals. The main problem at the moment is in and around 5 mile where these you guys will shoot at your car first even if you stop! There are at least 10 incidence around these parts every day. In town there are 'No go zones' like Boundary road and voco point settlements plus many more!

If your planning to move up here make sure you live in a place with back up generator power and water and both of these are aways getting cut off. The flights in and out of Lae (Nazdab) are good and run on time! Well most of the time?

I live out of town in a rural area which is relatively safe. I have spent the majority of my life in Png however was born and educated in Aus. I have lived in Pom, Rabaul, Kimbe and now near Lae. Let my state that Lae is the worst for personnel security.

In regards to eating and drinking the Lae Inter, Golf club, Yacht club, Bowls club all do reasonable 'cafe' style food like you are familar with in Aust. However the cost of these varies from Kina 20-40. There are also take away style shops in the supermarkets such as Anderson's and FoodMart if you like greasy food that is!

There is plenty to do on weekends with Madang and the highlands a short drive away.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Pngean.

Pngean, thanks for the info
Sounds quite scary as hell indeed! I don't want to go there and feel like I can't do anything on weekends due to security problems, living in Lae sounds very dangerous and not much fun at all. I'd be going as part of an aid program so hopefully they would secure good accommodation in terms of safety.

These no go areas you mentioned on the way to the airport, is this on some sort of highway with villages nearby?

How much for flights to Madang and other places in PNG?, I couldn't find any prices with my own research.

Me again, I spoke with friend who goes there quite often and he said the road is sealed to the airport now and takes about 30 mins and there used to be big trouble a couple of years back but now it's OK, or maybe he doesn't know all that goes on.

Well, if your trusted friend says so, then that's what you should believe!

Note that "pngean" had never before posted advice on PNG, and has apparently only registered to make that rather scary comment (totally out of line with experiences of myself or my trusted expat friends) here.
In fact I keep wondering if all these strange, invariably highly negative, "first posts" by previously unknown users don't in fact come from a certain TTer who used to keep posting such scaremongering stuff about PNG seemingly for some weird personal reason, and who has now disappeared (banned?), only to be suddenly replaced by such "new users".

Yeah I think you might be right Laszlo, that's the problem with these forums, you don't know what type of person is posting and what to believe and what not to believe...think I'll go with the friend and head over to PNG later in the year.

Can you give me a website with flights costs around PNG?, just want a ballpark figure of costs and also, I read on here that the new PNG LP is very bad, I have a 15 year old one but maybe that is too outdated?

The old Lp will be good for general info, outdated for practical details.
But Lae itself is so small, you hardly need a guidebook there, especially if you have local friends!
Air Niugini's website does give fares, I think - when it works.
In fact, their domestic fares can also be checked/booked online through travel agents abroad.

Hi, just read all the responses to your question and I feel I must give my 2 toea's worth (ie 2 cents). I lived in Lae for many years (left in 2007). Lae & PNG in general does have security issues and yes you have to be aware of your surroundings at all times - my best advise to anyone going to PNG is to trust your gut instincts - if something doesnt feel right it probably isnt - so take yourself out of the situation. Now having said that, as far as Lae goes, it is a small town thought it is the country's 2nd biggest city and the industrial centre of the country. There is quite a big expat community, most either socialize at the golf club, yacht club or aviat club. I would recommend you try to get a membership to either the yacht club or golf club (if you play golf or tennis) in your contract. It will help you to meet people, who can be a little hard to get to know at first but once you know a few people you will be fine.
Accommodation - yes make sure the security is good, alarms, bars etc. Back up power essential as is a water tank.
The infrastructure is slowly falling apart in Lae, the roads are always in need of repair, street lighting often not working, parrks and public gardens are often not cut making the town look untidy. Grocery shopping is pretty good, household goods are available but expensive, clothes & shoes are not available so take what you need.
Weekends - expats with boats usually go to Salamaua for weekends - only accessable by boat - there is a local guest house there as well and local boats are available for hire - just make sure you check for seaworthyness. There is also a group called Lae Explorers who do trips away once a month or so - as around for the contact once you are there.
You might like to check out the website for the local tourism bureau www.tourismmorobe.org.pg and the Lae Chamber of Commerce also has some local info www.lcci.org.pg either organistation is happy to help out with info for new people.
Not sure if I have answered all you questions, I am happy to answer more specific questions if you want.
PNG is an amazing place and so long as you are careful and sensible about what you do and where you go you will have a memorable time.

Thanks for your time and effort.

I lived near Kokoda for 2 months 15 years ago, and I have vivid memories of the place, vacant stares, betel nut teeth, scary looking people walking around with machetes, cooking a mumu (momo?) but I've never spent time in a city.

My memories of the expats in Popondetta aren't good, British snobs treating the locals like dirt, and a general unfriendliness.

I guess how many weekend options for getaways are available? I live in Korea and go on some sort of a trip most weekends, and I'm kind of used to that sort of lifestyle, even though the lifestyle here doesn't suit me (crowded, no nature) , just how easy is it to get away? you mentioned a boat and I read about banana boats also to Frichnicht or some German sounding area on the coast, so it seems you can jump on a boat and get away or.....
hang out with the expats drinking or playing tennis? I just don't want to go stir crazy and feel trapped

thanks for your time.

I am an Australian living in Lae. I agree with most of what pngean above says. As for his comments on security, yes all the areas he mentions have some crime problems but if you take some simple precautions you should be OK. He also says that Goroka & Madang are a short drive away. They are 4.5hrs one way, I personally don't call that short (but good long weekend option). Your trusted friend's comments on the road to airport is about right.

As for what to do on the weekends in Lae there are 3 main things, drinking, sport or church. Drinking could be rephrased as spending time at one of the clubs where you can socialize and drink as little or much as you like. The main ones for expatiates are the yacht club and Golf club. Sport, there are many but the better organized ones (for men) are rugby league, soccer, basketball & hockey. There also a golf course. Church there are all the major Christian dominations. Here you discover that many PNG nationals are generally kind and generous people. In fact I encourage you to spend some our free time socializing with PNG nationals. If you show them that your interested in their culture and don't regard them as a lower class then them (many expatiates unfortunately do) they'll do anything for you.

As far as day trips form Lae, you could consider Bulolo, Wau or Ramu. Or if you make friends with a PNG national they may invite you to their village.

Domestic airfares – check Air Niugini and Airlines PNG. The former show fares on their website www.airniugini.com.pg

Thanks for the input, I'm getting an idea of what to expect now.

As far as sport is concerned, I've never been good at group sports apart from tennis, and I see the Golf Club I think has a tennis court (bring own racquet??) I'm more of a hiker and cyclist. Any good (and safe) hikes in the area? I'd like to keep fit and tackle the Black Cat trek, but humidity is a problem for me........hope I get used to it!

I'll have no problem interacting with the locals, I seem to adopt the local way of doing things while abroad, and last time in PNG I was smoking Spear, chewing beetle nut and drinking kulau with the best of them, but then again I was young and stupid back then.

I'm a hiker too! Thinking of doing the black cat or a mountain in the highlands sometime. I'll try to find sometime closer to Lae and get back to you. When do you come to Lae, maybe we can meet up?

I MIGHT come to PNG, depends if I get the OK from the NGO, if thumbs up, around August I think, I'll let you know, thanks for the info.

Hey Monkey,

Somehow I missed this thread and only just stumbled upon it.

I agree with all of the above posts except for pngean's description of the highway. It is not as bad as it once was. I live here with my wife and young daughter. Our house, like most expats is secure. Mickniet is spot on about the social scene, there's a great mix of people here in Lae. There are a few keen mountain bikers in town so definately bring your bike. The golf course is world class as is the game fishing.

PM me if you'd like any further info.

PNGMangi check your PM

Lukim yu sampela taim

Hi,
I just returned from a 2month hol in PNG so I wanted to give some feedback. We travelled to a few different places. It was a family (with 3 kids aged 9, 11, 17).
We visited Lae and ended up going back there cause we made some gorgeous friends (locals). Lae is a funny place - it can be a tiny bit scary at times but generally if you pay attention to your own safety and don't walk around at night, it's great. We travelled along the airport highway a number of times both in private vehicles but mainly in pmvs (public motor vehicles) and had no trouble. In fact, before we arrived we were told we must get a guard dog escort (its a security company) to escort us from the airport out to the university the other side of town but we decided we wanted a 'real' holiday and we had the best time there. We did read in the local newspaper about some raskol activity out there but its usually between the different settlements and doesn't generally involve outsiders. You'd have to be pretty unlucky. We walked around town during the day freely, travelled in all sorts of public vehicles (vans, trucks, hitchhiked, etc) and everyone was good to us. The intimidating part is just being stared out by EVERYONE as you go about your business! PNG people in the main are so friendly and will go out of their way to help you as long as you show respect for them and their culture. The only real time I felt nervous was walking through the botanic gardens which is REALLY deserted and I wouldn't go back. In our experience there, the scary stories are from expats who never go anywhere on their own and my advice would be to not pay too much attention to the scare mongering. As someone else said just don't be stupid with your safety. have a great day, I wish we were going back soon.

Thanks for the trip report. I might be living in PNG for 12 months, but the project base has now changed from Lae to Madang, and to the base of Mt Wilhelm. Glad you had a good time, it's a great place, but it's been 15 years since my last visit.