Mt Wilhelm Trek report.

Had been meaning to post this for a while, but here's a trip report from my Aug 2014 Mt Wilhelm trek.

Arrived Kundiawa later afternoon and was told all the rides up to Kegsugl had already left, but thought I'd wait on the junction/ask around to see if anything else was going. Almost instantly I was approached by a young guy asking if I needed a guide for the trek. He came across a bit half arsed and I didn't know anything about prices at that stage, so flagged him off. Anyhow it wasn't too long before I got myself in the cab of a tray back which was carting bricks back up there, funny enough the younger guide and his older mate 'Gigs' jumped in the back along with a bunch of others.

So the 57km 'road' in the truck loaded up with bricks took over 4 hours. Seriously it is completely fu&$@! even in the newest of Landcruisers. It's called a road because it is the lifeline to a community of more than 60000, but really it's just a gnarly track with bridges ready to collapse at any moment! Supposedly they're paving it next year. If it's finished in the next 5 years I'd be very surprised, heck if it's even started haha!

Anyhow upon dumping the bricks at one of the villages we continued on up in the dark, until the truck stopped and said he's done for the night. Cue a Landy coming past and a ride for a little further, before he also called it a day. I had no idea how much further uphill it was to Betty's where I had planned to stay ($$$), but some others who started the walk claimed about an hour. I was completely over the days transit so walked over to a little shop at the junction I came across and asked the family if I could stay. Turns out it was John and Rose of the Niglguma (pronounced Nigooma) Bus Stop Cafe, the 'Gateway to Mt Wilhelm'. Straight away I've been invited inside where they've whipped me up some dinner, noodles eggs etc, then kicked one of their boys out of the shack (sorry young fella!) and slotted me into his bed. They got a generator going in the eve so could charge stuff, and there's even Digicel reception when the towers generator has fuel haha. Toilet was a classic pit, but hey if you're backpacking PNG this far then I doubt it's any issue!

They assured me the older of the two guides I'd been approached by in Kundiawa was decent to go with, Gigs is his name. So I bought some food from their shop the next morn (buy more than you think because you're feeding both you and your guide, and possibly his mates too if they rock up to the base camp like when I was there) and started the walk up to the trailhead. It def was about an hour up to Betty's place and the trail, glad I stayed down where I did that evening! I hooked up some strawberrys and cauliflower from an old boy who was farming along the way, really good stuff :)

Arriving up to the lakes camp is amazing. Really epic scene! There's a decent old house up there you stay in, with mattresses pillows etc, not much blanket action though. Plenty of utensils including a can opener at that stage. Was maybe 80kina a night? Paid up to an old boy at the start of the track. Cooked dinner on the gas stove and went to bed early to wake up like 2am for the summit. Don't underestimate how cold it is by the way. I didn't have a sleeping bag but managed to rent some blankets from a family near the start of trail, still used some old pillow cases to try cover and keep my feet warm haha!

Summit morn was def pretty tough going. Full moon was good in conjunction with my headlamp, but yeah it's bloody cold and altitude too. Gigs and I set a pretty good pace and ended up being a little too early, having to wait for sunrise at the top is nasty! Freezing wind but super clear above the cloud conditions. Descent is what really nailed me. Altitude decided to proper kick in at that stage, really is shattering stuff : \ Eventually got down to the lakes camp (descent took possibly longer than ascent) where I had planned to walk out the rest of the way to Kegsugl. Decided to stay another night as I was completely done, so sent one of the boys who was hanging around down to get some more food for everyone. Turns out he spent 80% on buai and smokes, but he did get the things I asked for! Coke, more strawberrys etc

Walked out the next morning as planned and stayed another night with John and Rose before the early morning PMV down to Kundiawa the next day. Had a wash wash in the seriously cold river, coffee at their cafe. Paid Gigs who had been my porter and guide for the 3 days 2 nights. Hadn't exactly nailed down a price before hand, but upon a little sitting around he came up with 200 kina which I thought was more than fair! Same with when paying up to John and Rose, we hadn't really talked price, but I think the two nights and the food they cooked me up was only like 50kina? Muchhhhh cheaper than Betty's by the sounds of things, although her place is worth a stop through on the way up, she hooked us up a bunch of fresh laid eggs, even got trout too if you want it. Friendly people up there :)

John and Rose said they actually plan to build a little something as a budget option for the odd traveler coming through, said they'd even install a western toilet, in the meantime they said they're more than happy to host in their boys shack, and would be thankful if I could let people know. 73338606 was her number, and his was 72052408. Don't be surprised if there's no reception though, or if someone else answers the phone. Maybe texting would help get your message across, either that or just rock up!

Tell them Cale the bearded young Aussie sent you. Hopefully they remember :)

sounds a great trip - thanks for sharing

where else did you go in PNG ?