PNG Trip report - Moresby, Tufi, Wewak, Sepik

Just got back from PNG and thought I would pass on some useful info about the trip for potential travellers.

Moresby - was only there in transit. Stayed at the Airways Hotel which is exxy, but safe and secure and good quality. It is only 60 seconds drive from the airport. Rooms are nice, but you will pay about 600 kina a night. Despite the price, the majority of staff still work on PNG time and it is hard to get decent service - but having said that - it is the best hotel in moresby and would recommend it if you have the money.

People in transit should be aware that rather than spend hours waiting at the domestic terminal in Moresby, you should take the free Airways shuttle from the airport up to the hotel and go and sit in the restuarant, the bar, the deli or go for a swim. They have towels (free of charge) and clean bathrooms there. Just tell the driver to take you to the resturant. Everyone does it and it is fine.

If you are only in Moresby for a short time, you can take a taxi (a Scarlet taxi) and go for a drive through town, and up to the Bomana War Cemetary. Taxi prices are more expensive than the most recent LP guide suggests - so don't be alarmed.

Domestic flights - the flights are sometimes running on time, but mostly delayed - sometimes for 45 minutes, sometimes 2 or 3 hours. Be prepared - bring a book. There is lady that makes and sells great (and real) coffee at the domestic lounge.

Tufi - We stayed at Tufi Dive Resort. We aren't certified divers, but it was still great and we went diving and snorkelling. The manager (and part owner) - Simon - is a great aussie guy that runs the place really well. We had the resort organise our flights for us which was fine - we flew Air Nuigini - a little double prop plane that lands on a little grass area. The rooms at the resort are neat but basic. They are clean and do the job. They have air-con and mozzie nets over the beds. Even if you are not a certified diver you can go out snorkelling or diving. They have all the gear for you - but it is probably better if you take your own snorkel gear like we did. Cyclone reef is great for snorkelling - I actually thought it was better snorkelling than diving. You can also take walks for the day or overnight to the surrounding villages. You can either do this yourself or make a quick arrangement through the resort and they tee up a local to take you (we did this, it was only 75 kina per person and was good). You can stay overnight at the local villages too - Simon rotates the stays between villages to allow each one to get a share of the income. Each village has made individual separate cottages as guesthouses which are neat and tidy. The resort has kayaks that you can take out at any time free of charge - you can paddle to the surrounding beaches and villages too which is great.

Wewak - flew here in transit on the way to the Sepik. I can rate the airport bathrooms as up there with the quality of the ones in India. We stayed at the In Wewak Boutique Hotel. The manager/part owner is an aussie called Phillip. It is really new, great rooms and resturant and so white it is almost sterile! You'll pay 305 kina for an aircon room or less for one with a fan. Would definitely recommend this hotel. The only other real option appears to be the Windjammer, which acts as the local brothel and nightclub as well. Not too much to do in Wewak - if you are looking for something for the afternoon, would suggest heading down to the Yacht Club (no yachts to be seen) for a frosty beverage. We met up with some aussies and had a good afternoon.

Sepik river - Took a tour with PNG Frontier Adventures - run by Chris Karis. Can highly recommend him - he was fanastic. Not cheap though - but you understand why when you do it - he has a team of people doing things to make the whole thing work. We toured the middle Sepik and stayed at Kangamanan, and visited the villages of Chambri and Ibom. It is about a 3 - 4 hour drive from Wewak to Pagwi. Then you get straight into a canoe and head down to the village (about 1.5 - 2 hrs). The village that we stayed at had a separate guesthouse that Chris had arranged be built. The villages are great, the kids are awestruck when they see you, and follow you around. You have to be careful though - some of the little kids are quite scared of you. Learn a little pidgin before you go so that you can speak to the kids a bit - makes it more interesting.