PNG Trip Report (Mt. Wilhelm - Kavieng)

Hi all,

Firstly thanks to all who gave me some advice and those that had already posted on this forum before, you all helped contribute to a truly amazing experience!

We arrived in Port Moresby on the 8th of August, flying Airlines PNG who were great (especially when we compared them to ground crew for Air Nuigini in Kavieng on departure!). Highly recomended. Stayed in the Comfort Inn in Boroko and only have good things to say about the place. Comfortable rooms (we had a twin share), on the way out we had fan-cooled and the way home air-con and cable tv. Phone 3255091, free transfers from the airport and around 170kina for two which wasnt bad in Moresby. Visit Boroko market (close) for any last minute souvenirs and food although Comfort Inn does food for 30kina and it's good.

Flew POM-Kundiawa on the 9th of August to begin our Highland's adventure. Arrived with the intention of picking up a PMV to Kegesugl and then beginging the trek to the top two days later. We weren't sure how long it would take to find guides. The airport security led us to the police station and the local community policeman (Paul) helped us jump on the back of a ute (PMV) his family were using to get back to Kegesugl. Try not to stay in Kundiawa, the accommodation is exy and the place doesn't look great, a lot of people milling around. The trip to Kegesugl cost 20kina (i think) plus 20 for each of our packs, we thought that was fair.

Met a guy called Joseph on the ute, a relative of Paul's. a landowner apparently, he claimed he could guide us up the mountain. Later turned out to be rubbish but he did find us two others Willy Phillip and Lucas. Stayed in the East Kege Guesthouse, fantastic place, much cheaper than Betty's (150odd kina vs 40odd!). No hot water but cooking facilities and they plough you with free vege's. We just turned up and found they had a room free (in fact four!).

Our guide's for the hike arrived on our doorstep that night (Willy and Lucas). You need to take food, candle's and batteries for you guides but can buy most of the basics at the village store in Kegesugl. Bring Sweet Chilli Sauce or a condiment of your choice!

The hike was hard although we probably should have left more behind at the East Kege. A smaller/lighter bag would have much nicer. Lonely Planet describes the hike well. Take a fishing line to catch trout from the lake, we tried spearfishing with wooden spears, line would be much easier! We stayed at the A-frame, 50kina, again just turned up but this might be harder if a big group comes through, a group of twenty japanese with twenty guides came through on the day we left. Stayed one night to climatic, next day quick hike to the site of the plane crash during the war and then the next night at 1am left for the top.

Very cold at the top and at night, bring warm clothes (thermals, fleece, underlayer). The walks a bit of a scramble at times on some narrow ridges that are quite exposed, you only realise on the way down in the light. We climbed quite quickly and in fact had to take some big breaks when we didnt need them so we got to the top in the sunlight. If you're fit it shouldnt take longer than 5hrs to get to the top. INCREDIBLE VIEWS!!! We then hiked down to Kegesugl via the lakes all day, ended up about 13hrs of walking, very tired that night.

Willy and Lucas cost 100kina each for the three days.

Accom at the A-frame was 50kina/person/night

East Kege was 40kina/person/night

PMV was 40kina each (including a 70L pack each)

Total about 350kina each including food. Much cheaper than any of the organised treks but we may have got lucky, I didnt get that feeling I think guides would always be easy to find. You don't need a porter.

Caught a PMV from Kegesugl (left at 7am) to Kundiawa then jumped in a PMV bound for Goroka. Very easy to find where they leave from at that time of day might be harder later. Kundiawa was the place we felt we were most likely to be robbed although we weren't. PMV was an experience, the Highland's H/way is not in great condition and at 120km/hr you feel mot bumps. Arrived in Goroka at about 2pm. Stayed in the Lutheran Guesthouse, 45kina including breakfast (that might have been a special medical student rate). Great place for backpackers. Goroka Market was probably the best place in our whole trip to buy souvenir bilums. We didnt!

Caught a PMV from Goroka to Madang the next day. Again easy to find in the morning. Cost 30kina each, no cost for bags. Crazy drive. The Road from Lae to Madang is the worst major road i've ever been on. Potholes that eat suspension and inclines of 20% over the Finisteride range outside of Madang. But we got there. In Madang we stayed for four nights in the CWA Guesthouse, 55kina each per night in a twin share. Right in the center of town, short walk to everything (3min to market). Great cooking facilities. Very safe. One night we spent in the Madang Lodge, great place, a bit more expensive. Amazingly well looked after gardens. Only drawback was it was a PMV ride to town (2kina). No nice beaches in Madang, all pumice down to the water, nice snorkelling just off the rock though. Visited Kranket Island which was nice to see. Madang Market was fantastic for fresh fruit and veg. There's also a seperate fish market and a lunch market next to the Madang Resort. Lots of facilities in Madang, for PNG anyway!

Had problems with Air Nuigini flying from Madang to Kavieng. Was meant to be a direct flight. Rung them the day before and was told that the flight no longer existed and that we had been sent an email a week before, had we not read it?! We'd been in the Highlands and on checking back in Aus we never recieved the email! After ringing around including head office we managed to get a flight from Madang-Moresby-Kimbe-Rabaul-Kavieng. 7odd hours versus the original 1 and a bit. Not impressed at all! Ended up arriving in Kavieng at 7pm in the dark with no way to get from the airport to our accommodation. Not ideal thank you Air Nuigini!

Sorry for the long report, i've tried to keep it brief and informative. For Kavieng please see the next post.

Cheers,

Jon

Thanks for that interesting trip report! It was weird reading as I did a lot of those trips around the same time! Especially the Goroka - Madang PMV ride (which I agree is horrible!) and spending time in Kundiawa which is suprisingly chaotic.

Can I also add to any readers that if they are looking for an awesome guide up Mount Wilhelm, I can recommend Phillip Casey (he has been recommended by other LP posters!)..

Phillip and his wife Jenny live in Kerowagi village, about 45 mins from Kundiawa. Phillip speaks excellent English and has a guesthouse on his property which I stayed.

He organises treks from his village (6 days but two are easy half days) or he can arrange the PMV you mentioned to the base of the mountain for the two day trek. He is an excellent guide and will organise porters, food, accommodations etc, on your behalf if you contact me.

His number is 72736037 (within PNG) dont hesitate to call, he is working on getting an email address but telephone is more reliable in PNG. If you contact him with your requirements he will create a budget for your trip and get back to you.