PNG Trip Report

PNG Trip Report November 18-29
There is so much to say about this country bur for brevity’s sake I’ll only explain the highlights, which leaves me just about the entire trip. We flew into Port Moresby via Virgin Blue from Brisbane and immediately caught another flight to Lae on Airlines PNG, which I found to be much more reasonably priced then Air Niguini. Our ride that was supposed to be waiting for us wasn’t there so standing upon the Lae airport curb side, we looked like lost souls without a clue of what to do. Luckily an Irishman named Austin offered us a ride to our place but not without a significant scolding. After telling him our trip plans he told us we were stupid for wanting to backpack PNG because it was such a dangerous country and there were better ones for young couples like Thailand but this man could not have been more wrong. With any country there will be potential dangers but Madang and the highlands where we spent the majority of our time were both very safe and friendly places. We spent the first night at the Mohami Guesthouse operated by a very friendly woman named Kwina. I can’t say enough good things about Kwina; she showed us great hospitality and love. She spent the afternoon showing us around her house and explaining the different native plants and trees. The next morning she gave us a ride to the Lae market where we caught a PMV (personal motor vehicle) to Madang. The first thing anyone should know about PMVs is that they don’t leave until they are fully packed and that can take some time. We spent over 2 hours driving around Lae looking for more passengers. Finally once we were full we departed for Madang. The PMV cost 50k and took about 6 hours. The last stretch of the road was very rough and slow travelling. In Madang we stayed at the CWA guesthouse (88K for 1 110 for 2) and it was very well kept. The staff although friendly was not as accommodating as Kwina. There is a very reasonable restaurant called the Madang club located right down the street. It offers very tasty and reasonable meals for around 12k. For the 4 nights and 3 days we spent in Madang, the highlight was a snorkelling trip to Pig Island. Since we were not certified divers, snorkelling was our next best option. The Madang hotel located about a 5 minute walk away from CWA had a diving/snorkelling service. The half-day trip set us back 90K each but it was well worth it. The rest of our time was spent either at the Madang hotel’s pool or inside due to the weather. On the 23rd we left for the highlands with our personal guide from Kerowagi named KC Phillip on a PMV for 40k 9 hours headed for Kerowagi.This man absolutely made our trip and if you are planning on travelling the highlands I highly suggest you give this man a call. KC PHILLIP +67572389651 He is one of the most kind hearted, light spirited people I have ever met. He will go out of his way to do anything for you. I got his contact details from thorntree and I’m trying to give other travellers the opportunity to be taken care of by such a nice man as we had. We spent two nights at his house in Kerowagi before meeting up with our friend to attempt a trek to the top of Mt. Wilhelm. I’m not sure how much he usually charges his tourists but he barely took any money from us since we were poor uni students. We caught a PMV from Kundiawa to Kegusugl (30 K 3 hours) which was by far the most enjoyable PMV ride of our trip. Although it was very bumpy and slow the scenery up the mountains to Kegusugl was spectacular. We arrived at 430 pm and due to our time restraints we probably shouldn’t have started the climb to the base camp but KC was able to convince the guides and his friends, Peter and Bonnie, to allow us to start the hike to the base camp at such a late time. It took us a little of 3 hours to reach the base camp. There are two places to rest that night, either the A-frame or the house at the base of the lake. We stayed at the house at the lake because it was cheaper only 50k. Only after 4 hours of sleep we started the climb to the summit at 1 am. Walking in the pitch black and wet conditions was not fun but we were well rewarded with the views from the top. The hike would not have been possible without our guides and I strongly recommend not doing it without one and even if you are an experienced climber. Their company makes for good conversation. The summit can be reached in 4 hours if done fast but it’ll take more like 6 hours at a comfortable pace. We reached the top on Thanksgiving morning and were very fortunate to get such good weather so late in November. It is much warmer during the wetter months but the chance for bad weather is much higher. The top of Mt. Wilhelm is truly magical and the views are incredible. It is well worth the strenuous hike. The hike back down, although much faster, I found more difficult because I was already so exhausted and the 4509 meter altitude was playing a toll on my health. We made it all they way back down to Kegusugl and spent the night at the guesthouse there for 50k. The next day we travelled from kegusugl to kundiawa to Mt. Hagen and spent our last two nights at the Kumul lodge. It was very pricy but very comfortable and relaxing. If birds and orchids interest you, this place will be your heaven. There were so many different birds, birds of paradise and orchids. We then flew airlines PNG back to Port Moresby and caught another flight back to Brissy. PNG is an amazing country but it was no holiday. It was a true adventure and seeing the people alone was amazing.

Interesting report, but it would be much easier to read if it was split into paragraphs.

Yes....paragraphs.....

YES,YES, a LOT of paragraphs. I need to go to my eye dr., after trying to read this!

Yeah, the lack of paragraphs actually put me off attempting to read it.

Yes, a loong paragraph, a bit daunted to try and read it at first- but did and it was worth it. Thanks for sharing what happened on your trip, it was interesting for me as I've been considering a trip like this to PNG for a while :)

So great to hear you had a good time!! I am so glad you ended up staying with Phillip! Isn't he great! Is the guesthouse completed yet and how is Jennie and their baby?

Sounds like a great trip---even without the paragraphs! I have been considering a PNG visit----I really like photographing birds, plants, people etc. but got put off when I was told that it would be foolish to let anyone see me photographing and that I would be inviting theft(of the camera I guess) and violence (because of photographing people). Anybody else agree with that? And did you take pictures on your travels?

My experience with Solomon Islanders (also Melanesian, as are the people of PNG) is that they love having their picture taken, and really enjoy digital cameras, as they can see themselves.
The only problem we had was when visiting one of the more remote Polynesian outlyers, where a local, who was a trained anthropologist, objected to my friend taking video without paying. I think they were sick of being exploited by commercial journalists, but this man (who was as well educated as I am) was quite rude to a person who only wanted to take film to help the people of the island, and had no commercial interest.

Most people in PNG are just fine with getting their pictures taken. Its always good to ask first though to make sure. Also, like Ozziegiraffe said, some of the people who get their pictures taken in traditional dress may expect a small payment.