| bkester09:44 UTC19 Jul 2016 | After having traveled around PNG for more than 3 weeks (my first visit), I would like to share some practical observations/experiences about travel in this great country, and answer some questions you might have before going.
Cost
Is the country expensive? It is certainly not a budget destination, but at the same time, not as expensive as some other travelers have reported here on TT. Much of your expenses are determined by how much comfort you want. Accommodation is certainly not cheap: I paid between PGK80 and PGK250 per night. Sometimes, this included full board.
Transportation, apart from flying, is however very affordable and a great way to experience the country and the people. Rides are between PGK 1 in town to PGK 40 for long distances. This also depends on the kind of PMV you are using. For example, trucks are cheaper than minivans.
I spent a little less than PGK8200 (presently roughly EUR 2300, USD 2600); including 6 domestic flights, all accommodation, transport, meals, phone card, etc. I started in Wewak and the eastern Sepik province, then went overland to Madang on the infamous betel nut boat run, climbed Mount Wilhelm, spent 4 days on Kiriwina island, and 4 more days in and around Rabaul.
As far as guides are concerned: I only used one for visiting villages on the Sepik and Keram rivers, climbing Mount Wilhelm and one for climbing two volcanoes near Rabaul. For the rest, it turned out to be very easy to travel around: people are so friendly someone is bound to help you if you need it.
Communications
Internet is still hard to come by. I bought a bmobile/vodafone simcard with 1.5GB data, but this turned out not to be a good idea: no coverage in Angoram, Kegsugl, Kiriwina island, very bad connection in Rabaul/Kokopo. You're much better off taking a card with Digicel for its much better coverage in the country. Even a bigger "city" like Kokopo had only one internet place with barely passable connection speed.
Wewak & Sepik river
It wasn't clear before leaving how much time it would take to travel down the Sepik river on PMV boats. Since I had less than month, I decided to go straight to Angoram. Stayed at Wavi guesthouse, with enthusiastic owner Francis. No electricity in the rooms, much needed mosquito net, PGK50, meals PGK10. Both Francis and his wife did whatever they could to accommodate me. For one day, I hired a canoe and skipper, and a guide; with fuel included, I paid PGK300 for more than 9 hours exploring several villages on the Keram and Sepik river. People gladly and proudly showed me their carvings. In some villages on the Keram river, people seemed not very used to tourists as the river cruise ships don't go there. A great experience!
Betel nut run
Experience the Sepik a different way: going down to the sea on a banana boat full of betel nuts. I had to wait for more than a day, but it was more than worth it. Price: PGK100. They tend to leave in the evening, around 10pm, and take all night to sail down the river, taking a shortcut in the end which means going through a narrow tunnel in the forest. We hit the sea at sunrise, with beautiful Manam volcano on the horizon. Another couple of hours later, we arrived at the tiny seaside village of Mandi, in a beautiful bay with sandy beach. An hours wait later, we were loading the 54 bags of betel nut into a PMV truck. What followed was a lengthy ride to Madang. The traders sold most of their cargo on the way, so we went back to Boroi to get more cargo (copra). The boat and PMV ride were one big adventure and one of the highlights of PNG.
Madang festival
I had planned to stay one short night in Madang but the girl at the reception of the Madang Lodge told me the Madang festival was on. Not mentioned in the LP, it apparently happens on the Queen Birthday weekend. Quite a small festival, with somewhere between 10-15 singsing groups, it was fantastic to see and experience. I was allowed onto the terrain, could talk directly to the performers who proudly told me about their origins, and take great photos. Madang Lodge: when you walk in, it feels like a high-end resort, but they have pretty good though small rooms with shared facilities for PGK140.
Mount Wilhelm
After two days on PMVs (even though I took the first PMV out of Madang, it only left at around 10am and we arrived at 19:00 in Goroka. I stayed near the XXX hotel, took an early morning PMV to Kundiawa where one of the passengers told me he had a vehicle take him to Kegsugl, which is the starting point for climbing Mt. Wilhelm. Of course things didn't go very smoothly, but the drive over this road was nothing short of spectacular. For one day, I hiked around the area on the track to Madang and through the forest, to acclimatize. With guide for PGK20. Then, I hit the mountain, slept overnight in the hut at the first lake. Hike times mentioned in the LP are only a rough indication. It took me 1h45 from the trailhead to the first lake, and then 3h10 from the first lake to the summit. We were lucky and had clear skies, and thus fantastic views all around. On your descent, you finally get to see all you climbed during the night. Guide was PGK150. I stayed at Josephine and Arnold's place: PGK80 with breakfast and great dinner with home grown vegetables. On top from that, great couple! Only thing: no electricity in the house, no running water. Got a bucket to wash myself in the exterior bathroom area, but when the outside temperature is around 10C, things get pretty spartan even when the water is warm.
Kiriwina / Trobiand Islands
From the airport, a truck took me to the Station / Losuia and the Loquia lodge. They offered rooms for PGK100, meals are PGK25 each. They were not able to organize bicycles unfortunately. They took another traveler and me to Kaibola the next day, where a cruise ship had arrived. Awful experience: 2000 dim-dims flooding a 100-odd fishing community. When the ship left, we were constantly asked to change AUD into PGK. But at least peace had returned. Emanuel, the owner of the beach guesthouse, turned out to be unreliable, and we felt overcharged for his very simple room which we had to share: PGK100 each - meals included. The meals were also quite basic. Bucket of water to wash with, toilet 50m away, no electricity. You can hear the family talk etc during the night. The second day, my friend left, and I joined the yam harvest which was a great thing to do. Someone then finally took me to the cave with human bones and skulls. Nice 30 minute walk. I never understood why Emanuel had promised to take us the day before without doing it (saying the trail was too "slippery"?), other than forcing me to stay another night at his place. He even offered to arrange a girl for the night, making it feel he is a pimp as well. Better bet would be to go to Okaiboma, stay with Tom who is a very smart, interesting, and sophisticated fellow. Contrary to what others have posted here, it is actually feasible to move around by PMV. I walked almost half the way back from Kaibola to Station, and took a PMV from there. Walked to Okaiboma from Station, and even found a PMV back after 19:00 which dropped me off at the Loquia Lodge.
Rabaul
Yes - volcanoes! First day, hiked up the Tavurvur, which is the active volcano that destroyed the town in 1994. You pass the hot springs. I took a guide but this is not necessary. Just be cautious at the top as the soil is hot and there are fumes everywhere. The trail is quite easy to see. Views fantastic; even saw a rainbow on the top! Was supposed to go diving but when the boat didn't arrive after waiting for 45 minutes, I gave up, also because they had my phone number and knew which hotel I was staying in, but never warned me about this. Their excuse: it had been raining the night before. Instead, I walked to Matupit, took a canoe across to the foot of the volcano to see the megapode egg hunters who dig deep into the earth to find eggs at a certain risk to their safety. Friendly village. Afternoon: stroll to Yamamoto bunker and the destroyed town, and up to the observatory with fantastic views both of Simpson Bay and sunset. Early next morning: hike up Kombiu, the Mother Volcano, which gives great views all around. A little below the summit, take another trail to get great views of Tavurvur. Climbing time from Rabaul hotel: 1h35. I took a guide, but would have been better off without him as he was too slow and I basically climbed it all by myself; gave him PGK50. Once you find the right trail, it is quite easy to go up. Rabaul Hotel: although they initially denied they had them, there are spacious budget "backpacker" rooms for PGK165. Last day, I spent at Kabaira Beach Hideaway for a day of total relaxation before a long journey home. PGK250 with 3 very good meals and free laundry included for a room with shared facilities in their guesthouse.
For pictures and stories, please visit the PNG section of my website: http://www.traveladventures.org/continents/oceania/papua-new-guinea.html
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| leslieqb01:52 UTC05 Nov 2016 | PNG has been my dream travel destination for years... Ever since I did not take advantage of $125 RT out of Cairns circa 1985. Since my retirement, and hence time, though limited resources, I have been scared off by cost and perceived danger of traveling solo. You have spoken to cost, could you comment on personal safety, and whether you have any sense for women traveling solo, and for me in particular, a senior woman. I have looked at roadscholar for organized tours, but besides being pricey, they are rated just so-so.... something about accommodations within barbed wire enclosures being unnerving.
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| bkester11:50 UTC05 Nov 2016 | hi leslie - i was travelling solo, but not as a woman, so i just can't comment on that. perhaps someone else can?
i can, however, say that i never felt unsafe. i actually felt people took care of me, helped me out, were sweet. only in PM did i sleep in accommodation with security guards. elsewhere, things felt very relaxed actually. please note that travelling by yourself can be basic and rough, especially PMV rides and sometimes, accommodation as well. it's up to you to decide if that is OK with you, or not. travelling by yourself in PNG is definitely adventure - with great rewards!
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