Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Solo travel in Papua New Guinea

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Papua New Guinea

Hi there,

I'm planning a independent 10-day travel to PNG in April. My aim is to climb Mt Wilhelm. I have done extensive research about the country. I'll be travelling by plane and PMV and will hire a guide for the climb. I've traveled to a remote places in Africa, Asia and Central America, always solo, and I don't tend to get put of the country with a dangerous reputation. This time, however, I seem to get a rather negative respond from everybody around me when they hear about my plans. I started wondering if women travelling solo in PNG is really such a bad idea?
People who have visited, please share your thoughts.
Thanks.

I've visited a few times - though not as a woman.
Basically, you should be fine as long as you follow some basic rules, such as not walking around in cities at night (you'll have no reason to) and not going hiking on your own in remote areas (you'll have no time to).

On the PNG branch of this forum, there used to be a entire thread titled "Traveling alone as a woman" with thoughts and trip reports of many women who traveled in PNG, but of course it has recently been deleted along with the rest of the archive. I'll try and ask for it to be restored, but...
No one posting on it has reported any trouble - in fact I can't recall anyone ever posting on TT about having been mugged, robbed or whatever in that country.

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The thread I referred to above has been swiftly restored (thanks, katija!):

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/thread.jspa?threadID=1323353

Women's trip reports mostly appear from post #33 onwards.

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PNG is as wild as it gets. It is also, still, a very patriarchal society. The last I heard about it was in Vanimo, three days ago, from a fellow traveller. He was telling me about a group of women-witches in the highlands accused of sorcery by the village. Apparently they were burnt alive, as punishment. I mean, burnt at the stake is something that, I thought, belonged squarely to the Middle Ages, but obviously not, it belongs to this day and age. Apparently the PNG police knew about it and did nothing to stop it, as they thought it was a fair punishment anyway. What these women had done exactly to deserve this, I have no idea, maybe the guy was making it all up just to scare me off, but why would he do it? If you go to the Indonesian side of Papua (a lot cheaper) be VERY careful not to take sides politically, as several members of the Free Papua Movement have been tortured or killed, as well as their sympathizers, by the Indonesian military. Personally, I would get in touch with the missionaries before going. They are there to build a peaceful society, not to exploit the vast natural resources of the place.They have also written extensively about Papua and they are a good source of info. Obviously, don't have unprotected sex, as HIV is rampant. Try not to get raped, too.

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Well, some interesting pieces of advice. Thank you for the link Laszo, that was really helpful. I'm not planning of walking alone anywhere. The only thing that I'm slightly weary of is travelling on the PMV and also climbing mt wilhelm one to one with a local guide I don't know. Hopefully my worries are not justified and you won't hear about a Polish solo traveller burnt alive on a stake!

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Haha, that post warning you about witches burnt or having to contact missionaries in Indonesian Papua was so weird it's good you take it as the joke it is.
Try to remember to contribute to that women travelers in PNG thread after your trip, it could help others like you in the future.

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Oh, the Mount Wilhelm climb.
Make sure you get a guide through the guesthouse you stay at in Kegsegul, and they should get you a reliable one. I always (well, twice) stayed a the East Kege GH and found it great and cheap.

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It has been a long time since I've lived in PNG but at the time II was warned not to travel in a PMV unless there were other women. Check with local women or someone you trust about this.

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Hi,

I spent 1 month as a solo female traveller in PNG in February 2013 in various different areas. I had no problems but did take obvious (and maybe overexagerated) precautions such as:
- Not going out at night alone anywhere (not even in small villages)
- In some towns that the locals told me were a bit unsafe I would accept offers from women or men I trusted to walk with me in the towns.
- Avoiding the areas that locals told me were currently problematic - things in the highlands I was told can change quite quickly.
- Not getting a PMV that would not reach its destination in day light. (even some local women did this)
- dress conservative, no tiny skimpy shorts and tops.
- being extra conscious in Port Moresby and Lae which I was told were very dodgy. I wouldn't go out alone even in the day in these places.

Much of the 'routine' issues are internal and don't involve tourists (a tourist for example won't be accused of witchcraft and killed) but of course there are PMV hijackings and rapings which don't discriminate between locals and tourists. You sound pretty well travelled - moreso than me - and so long as you're alert when you're out and about your chances of having problems are I suspect very slim.

Enjoy your trip, I'm sure it will be unreal. I wanted to climb Mt Wilheim but the cost was too inhibitive for me!

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AIB, thanks heaps for posting, I'm a female solo traveller and am keen to visit PNG in either August or September this year, so I'm inspired to hear tales of other women travellers who have had a good experience there. I'd be really keen to hear more about where you went in the month you were there? And how you got around? And of course any accommodation recommendations that you have.

I've wanted to head to PNG for many years and just don't know what to make of all these travel warnings from the govt etc! While I understand its a potentially dangerous place (and some bad things happen there), it seems that by complying with some basic safety measures that I'd apply anywhere I visited, I could have a pretty enjoyable visit. I looked up some tours from Australia and almost had a cardiac arrest when I saw the prices! In any event I'd prefer to give my business to someone local when it comes to getting a guide.

I'm interested in diving plus Sepik River, Goroka and maybe Mt Hagen show, if the timing works out.

Any info you can share about where you went would be absolutely awesome!

Aglagla, I'm also interested in hearing how your trip went?

Many thanks

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Just read the whole topic now. Just wanted to ask Aglagla and also others opinion about travelling solo as female in PNG/ the Solomon Islands, going there beginning of November. I am quite seasoned traveller but the South Pacific region will be defo something new for me. I have 2 weeks between PNG and Solomon. Not even quit sure how I am gonna spend it, planning is still in progress. Probably a week or a bit more in PNG and the rest in the Solomon Islands. Starting at Milne Bay Canoe Festival. But not quite sure about the rest of my itinerary as I wanna squeeze in as much as I possibly could but also need to consider that November is not the best time for the Highlands. Anybody who has been there what will be your suggestion?

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