travelling alone as a woman

Hi there

I'm at the beginning of planning a trip to Asia, including a little part of Australia and Papa New Guinea.

Is Papa New Guinea save for a woman to travel alone ? Are there parts I should avoid and things I should know? I'm desperate to learn as much as I can, including good travelling tips ;o)

Thanks very much and greez from Switzerland
hägar

Have you a particular reason for visiting Papua New Guinea?
Just about any other country in the Pacific is safe for a woman travelling alone, but parts of Papua New Guinea are definitely to be avoided.
There might be other countries that could meet your needs.

A particular reason? Hmm... five years ago I spent some time in QLD and the idea to go there, but there wasn't time... too much to see around QLD itself.... I will be back in Australia again this year and after that I'm heading to Asia (Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia and Laos) and thought, it would be a nice possibility to do it this time... All I know about Papa New Guinea so far is, that there is no big turist thing and it is still pretty wild ;o) Ah, and the gold seekers and the kannibals ;o)))

As I told you, I'm still at the beginning of my plannings...

Any other things I should know about Papa New Guinea?

Cheers
hägar

As in other parts of the world, it's the big cities you should worry about - of which PNG has maybe three.
And avoid walking around alone at night anywhere - there is little reason to do anyway.
Out in places like New Ireland you would be as safe as anywhere in the Pacific.

PNG is a truly unique place and well worth visiting, but women do have to be more cautious there than in many other countries.

But I think we should leave this question for woman travellers who have been to PNG to reply.
Watsoff, Alison, or Jonica ... any of you around? ;-)

Jonika recently went up to Goroka and travelled around for a few days with a visiting friend and our then 3 month old bub. She stayed out of town in a village type place and had a ball.

My only advice would be to avoid travelling around in the lead up to the national elections in June/July. Things do get a bit unpredictable around that time.

I didn't feel very comfortable on my own in Port Moresby, especially after I landed at the airport. I asked a National where the taxi rank was, he was horrified to learn I was on my own and insisted I NOT take a taxi as I wouldn't make it to wherever I was going. (What was I supposed to do, drop kick my two duffel bags around town looking for a place to stay?) He insisted I go back to the airport as another international flight was due to arrive from Australia and try and find some ex pats. I did, and a very kind couple (who were just as horrified that I was considering taking a taxi on my own) who where there to pick up their son drove me first to their highly fortified home to phone around for a room, then drove me to Boroko to Ambers Inn where I ended up staying. Their house was fortified to the max, and the wife had to take the mobile phone to get from the house (3 security gates) to the car port to the main gate (also barred), "just in case."

Some of the guests at Ambers Inn (both ex pat and National) always insisted on coming along as escort whenever I wanted to go out to get something to eat or whatever. All that made me decidedly nervous about being on my own in Port Moresby, although I still believe a lot of the hype is just overblown hype. I don't walk around my home town at night, so I wouldn't do that in any other city either. I heard great things about the rest of the country (except for the other two larger towns) and want to try it again sometime.

Like Laszlo says, PNG is unique and well worth visiting.

I am for the most part going to avoid the highlands due to the upcoming elections, with the exception of Goroka and the Mt Wilhelm hike. I am very excited about spending time in Milne Bay where I have been in contact with Napatana Lodge and Gretta which seems like a great place to travel for an individual of any gender.

When are you planning to go haegar?

Thanks very much for your replies and your help. I'm really getting curious ;o)

@kip66: I'm planning to go at the beginning of January 2008. Any of you around there at this time?

What about places I HAVE to see and places that aren't so interesting? How much time will I need to see a good range of the country?

Soooo many questions...

<blockquote>Quote
<hr>What about places I HAVE to see and places that aren't so interesting?<hr></blockquote>There are few "sights" as such, notably the amazing spirit houses of the Sepik region and maybe the volcanos and WW II relics of New Britain.
Otherwise PNG is more about exploring and meeting the people than about ticking off "must-see sights".
As such, just being there, ANYWHERE, can be interesting!
For more ideas see the PNG tourism website and try and get a copy of the OLD LP guide (the newer one is much worse).<blockquote>Quote
<hr>How much time will I need to see a good range of the country?<hr></blockquote>You could easily use up a 2 months visa trying to see various parts of the country, especially if you are on a lower budget and don't fly everywhere.
You couldn't see all of PNG in a year, or even a lifetime, but the longer you have, the better.

<blockquote>Quote
<hr>@kip66: I'm planning to go at the beginning of January 2008. Any of you around there at this time? <hr></blockquote>

I will be there in just over a month from now so I will be sure to post my trip report and how it all worked out for me. It is good that you have some time before your trip to check out some of the posts here, which have been extremely helpfull with planning my route. Even though I do have a plan together I am leaving myself open for any sort of random adventure that may come up, escpecially since everyone seems to agree that a trip to PNG means that your plan will never work exactly as your originally thought.

I havent been there before and already I wish that I had more time and already see myself extending the trip by a few weeks!

Wow Kip66, I wish I was as far as you are with your plannings... How long will you stay in PNG?

I'm waiting for your trip report ;o)

Wow, I'm absolutely excited to plan this trip, a bit scared as well because I'm travelling alone (although you're not long alone, are you?!)... But I'm sure it will be an unforgettable adventure!

Hi people, first time on here, so just surfing through.....

maybe you should have a look at Kira Salak's book, four corners, sure you are aware but it's an account of her travels across PNG alone.

a good read if nothing else.

cheers!

Haegar - My plane ticket says 35 days but I am already thinking to extent it by another 2 full weeks... just so many things I would like to do! For me this is the biggest trip I have done by far, and also the first alone so I dont want to rush it. I agree with you that regardless of what happens it is going to be quite the adventure :) Seems like you have a lot of time to plan your route so just take advantage of the info out there.

knowfearsteve - good to hear it is a good read, just ordered it on Amazon about a week ago... sounds like quite the adventure Kira went on and looking forward to the details

I've read some reviews saying that Salak's book is quite sensationalist and doesn't give a realistic picture of PNG - so take her account with a pinch of salt.
Remember that travel writers often spice up their stories to improve sales! ;-)

BTW Andrew, you sound so well prepared (got LP's old guide, too?) and enthusiastic that I am pretty sure you will have a great time!
You might as well change your dates right now, unless you are tight with money and your budget may not last that long.

I reckon I will order the book too, if it doesn't help to plan my trip it surely will rise my delight ;o)

Kipp66: It just seems that I have a lot of time to plan laugh, in fact I'm in a hurry to book my flights, because I start my journey at the beginning of December this year. Hong-Kong, Australia, Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia and eventually Laos is on my list as well, and so I have to start my preparings... heaps to do, especially it will be my first time in Asia.

But it is a very exciting thing to do and I'm hardly able to work because I'm planning all the time ;o)))

Laszlo: What is it about the old LP, is it better than the new one?

Olga, just don't let the book possibly put you off going by making PNG sound more "adventurous" than you might like.
Also, it's quite old.
Read my replies for the new LP guide and the old one on Amazon to get an idea of the difference between the two.

While there read the critical reviews of Four Corners before deciding to order and read the book.
It seems that all those readers who actually know PNG personally thought the book was really bad, which put me off getting and reading it.

This one is an excellent book about travels in remote parts of PNG - informative, insightful and exciting without having to be sensationalist or resorting to high tales.

BTW, remember that if you want to combine AU, PNG and SE Asia in one trip, it makes much more sense to cross overland between PNG and Indonesia on the way in or out than to fly RT AU-PNG.
And crossing the land border also lets you see Indonesia's West Papua, which is quite different from PNG.
See the two relevant links in my signo line for more on this.

Uhh, I shouldn't type so hastily: in #15 I wanted to write "Read my REVIEWS for..."

Wow Laszlo, thanks for all those links!! Heaps to do on my side ... ;o)

You may already be in PNG by now.

I lwas raised in the islands there for many years and my parents lived there for 20 years. (Also in the Solomon Islands) Five of us family members are going back ther for a holiday in May, 2007. We will be flying from Cairns to Port Moresby (which was the cheapest flight for us from Australia, where we live) then from Port Moresby to Rabaul..........on to Buka and Bougainville..........then to Tufi. I have done a lot of research so I would be able to help you with a lot of information to these destinations. We did not live in the Highlands of PNG..............only in the islands and near Tufi on the mainland. It is truly a spectacular country and you need plenty of time. The culture is very rich and you will be altered for life. Please let me know if you'd like any info. K-sha.

Hi kelvinkayesha

No, unfortunately I'm still in Switzerland... My journey starts in December and I will be in PNG at the beginning of January 2008.

I'd like to fly from Cairns as well. But I have to check Laszlo's links first. May I ask you, how much you had to pay for the flight? I reckon it will be cheaper to book the flight in Australia than in Switzerland.

And of course I'd like to get every information I can ;o)

Where exactly in Australia do you live?

Greez
olga

Olga, the PNG link in my signo line has a link to Airlines PNG, who offer the cheapest AU-PNG flights, bookable online at good fares which are openly advertised.
Ok, happy reading!

Hmm, the lowest OW fare offered for December from Cairns to POM seems to be 257.69 AUD with all taxes included - pretty good, I reckon!

I'm not sure I would try the overland Indonesia PNG trip as a woman travelling alone and in the country and region for the first time.
If you had a companion, or knew local people, it would be different.

I thought I should qualify my last post. I am a woman who has lived for some years in Solomon Islands, another Melanesian country. It is important to remember that rural Melanesian men have rather old-fashioned attitudes to women, and would think it very strange that a foreign woman was travelling alone in isolated areas, unless she was well-known, or travelling with locals or in a group.
This could well put you at risk in ways that simply don't apply to men travelling alone.

Vanimo, the closest PNG town to the border with Indonesia is one of the smallest and most peaceful provincial capitals in all PNG.
It is much, MUCH safer than Port Moresby (judging by the latter's reputation), and if anything, an ideal, gentle intro to the country.
It's also something of a popular visa-run from Indo, with solo women travellers often going there, too.
The only trouble with it is the lack of cheap guesthouses, though this may change.

Indonesia itself is as safe as anywhere in South-East Asia for women.

Of course being a woman puts one at more risk, and requires more caution pretty much anywhere in the world, but that's something you just have to live with, I guess.
My impression is that Olga, not being put off by earlier warnings, seems willing to take the risks of leaving the safety of Switzerland in return for the potential rewards of travel.
Of course, she must decide about the overall risks herself, but I just wanted to note that entering PNG overland is only safer, not riskier, than flying.

You're right Laszlo, I'm not a pretty anxious woman, and as you wrote I'm willed to take the "risk". I'm looking for the adventure ;o)

I reckon you have to use commonsense and try to get back to our instincts.

Don't you think I will meet other travellers I can join?

But keep going, I really want to be aware of any risk.

Puuuh, I'm looking forward to this week end, so I finally can get through the material I got :o)

Good attitude for travel, but be prepared to use more common sense in PNG than in most other countries.
I frankly doubt you will meet ANY other independent travellers to join - on my last PNG trip of 2 months' length, I met NONE who were travelling around extensively.
This was less of an issue as far as "lonelyness" is concerned than in many other countries, simply because PNG locals are very friendly and speak English, so make good company to me. A woman would obviously have to be more careful about making friends and accepting invitations though - go for families and local women, rather than young blokes who might "misinterpret" your friendlinees.
But if you want other travellers to accompany you on your whole trip to make it safer, you might be out of luck, and should try and arrange it in advance.

Some things I would NOT do if I were a solo female traveller to PNG include:
- Wearning skimpy clothing exposing knees and shoulders, or body shape in general (loose-fitting stuff would be better)
- Walking around at night ANYWHERE
- Exploring quieter parts of the cities alone (the busy city centres should be OK by day)
- Hiking alone, especially in the Highlands (at least hire a guide)
- Canoeing down the Sepik alone (again, a guide could make it safe)

Some things I WOULD do include:
- spending more time in the more relaxed island provinces and coastal areas
- spending more time in rural areas than cities (the cities have little to offer anyway)
- making local friends and hanging out with them
- being flexible about travel plans, like not insisting on going to dodgier regions if people say I should not
- staying in church-run or women's guesthouses in the cities, and tourist-oriented ones out in the country

Of course, I am writing this as a man, only because advice from female travellers to PNG has not been forthcoming.
We had some posting enthusiastic trip reports in the past (French girls exploring New Britain and New Ireland, Aussies living/travelling in the Highlands), but they haven't been back recently.
See the PM I sent you for a possibly very good personal contact!

In general, I think you will get a feel for the place after some time spent there, and should be able to figure out how to behave.
And if you do fly into Port Moresby, don't let it represent the rest of the country for you!

OK, I guess it's time for you to get those guidebooks now for more info... :-)

Gosh, sometimes it is a true chickenshit to be a woman... ggg no, no, it's not that bad, but it definitively is when you're planning to visit PNG...

I got a private message from a local guide in PNG who offered to show me PNG. But I also got a message about rape, AIDS and so on...

But still, I'm convinced to go and I'm looking forward to the "lonelyless" ;o)

Thanks very much for your help and advices!!

<blockquote>Quote
<hr>BTW Andrew, you sound so well prepared (got LP's old guide, too?) and enthusiastic that I am pretty sure you will have a great time! You might as well change your dates right now, unless you are tight with money and your budget may not last that long.<hr></blockquote>

I do feel well prepared but I think all my plans will change once I get there :) I borrowed the old LP guide from the Library and took down notes on the areas that I plan to visit so I will only bring the new guide with me. Just watched the LP video last night also, good watch if just for a brief taste. As you mentioned I am debating on extending my trip before even leaving since it will likely be easier to co-ordinate, just have to decide how feasible it is financially first... I was also planning to spend a week in Austrailia but I might axe that for a separate trip some other time so that I have more time in PNG.

<blockquote>Quote
<hr>Kipp66: It just seems that I have a lot of time to plan laugh, in fact I'm in a hurry to book my flights, because I start my journey at the beginning of December this year. Hong-Kong, Australia, Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia and eventually Laos is on my list as well, and so I have to start my preparings... heaps to do, especially it will be my first time in Asia.<hr></blockquote>

That is quite the trip! you definetly need the time :)

Kip

Yes, I need the time, but it's such a good thing to do, isn't it?

Cheers
olga

Dear Tourist,
Dear All,

Be carefully !!!!! Don’t trust !!!!!

Don’t book a trip with every kind of Papua New Guinea Travel Agency.
PNG Tourist Promotion Authority and other Travel Agency are involved on fraudulent cases.
PNG Tourist Promotion Authority promote and publicized some Travel Agency, like PNG Holidays Ltd of Mr.Benjamin Nikints.
Mr. Benjamin Nikints and his team take your money and after disappear..
I’m writing from Italy , since last June 2006 we’re waiting to recover our money (5000$) but there isn’t developments about this case.
Other tourist from America and Holland had loosen a lot of money….
Try you to understand…..
The PNG community is shared from clan….
What does it means….
It means that every clan do it possible to cover every kind of matter happened to his component..
Papua New Guinea is much corrupted and dangerous.

Hi Andrea,

I am very sorry to hear about your lost.
With interest I have been reading all the topics around PNG simply because I will depart this august for a trip to PNG (via Australia) for my first time. My itinerary is fine-tuned as far as I can in "The Land of the Unexpected" with the help of a local agency of which I am sure is very reputable as what I could figure out from different resources.

It is true that PNG Holidays are blacklisted by the official PNG PTA. They have been announcing that on their main page of their website untill recently when they res-styled their website.
Apart from that, I have had a lot of good information from PNG TPA and can not praise them enough. So I am surprised to read your review, informing that PNG TPA is in co-operation with the fraudelent PNG Holidays while exactly PNG TPA has send warnings to all readers ???

My self-adapted itinerary will be hosted by NG Expeditions operated by Mister Steven Tendi of which I believe is a very good and reputable organisation. He suggested me to book the domestic flights myself (I'm heading to different areas in 17 days) which I think is a good way to reflect his honesty.
PNG is an expensive destination, I know. It is of course not the nicest thing to prepare yourself for a dream-trip and ending up losing such a lot of money. But, I can't understand why sending such a huge amount to a company of which you might have not previously doing deep research on their stabilty or trustworthy business.
Myself, I am not a real adventure seeker but I have booked all my flights directly with the airlines which I turned out to be very simple to do. In the worst case, I could lose deposit money for the overland parts but I doubt I will.
Believe me, I have been reading, researching online since 2005 after I returned with amazing memories from West Papua ( thanks to all the TT input from honoured members as Laszlo and such ), and finally will make it this august to PNG of which I can't wait to take off.
From your reply, it sounds like nobody will be safe in PNG. Have you been there then despite your lost ?

I am not physically strong and diabetic but it does'nt refrain me to explore this last paradise.

Eddy - Belgium
Lots of West Papua pictures and a video can be seen at my non-commercial website:
Globetrotters.be

haegar - From my experience I agree with a lot of points made, from a female prespective - Aviod travelling alone at night, I'm not a fan of POM - the country has a lot more to offer. Expect to pay for expensive intenal flights - they are nessasary to get from one point to another in some cases due to poor road systems, find sucure and safe accomadation, shop at markets for fresh product (cheap and tasty), be prepared for 'beetle nut' people chew it constintley and spit it everywhere, above all be prepared for an excellent and unique holiday - the landscape is stunning, culture unspoilted by tourism and fasanating, people absolutely genuinely open and freindly. Cheers Missy.

Hi Haegar,

I traveled by myself (I'm female) through parts of PNG and loved it. I spent a month there July/August 2006. The main precautions are:

1. wear conservative dress (short sleeves are fine, but in some areas, covering the knees is important - I wore capris and skirts)
2. don't go out alone at night
3. try to arrange for your hotels to pick you up from airports (it's worth the extra $)

Really, I found most people to be incredibly nice and rarely felt like there was a lot of danger. I traveled to POM, New Britain, Madang, Wewak, and spent 2 weeks in various Sepik areas.

I had purchased my ticket from Brisbane to POM on Qantas, and found that I was not eligible for discounted airfare on Air Niugini because of it. That made the internal flights much more expensive!

Have fun!

Hi,

You picked a very fascinating country and the comments about travelling alone seems relevant in the thread. Just to get you a little more anxious to really go for it you can look at the travel stories we wrote from Tari, Mt Hagen, Goroka, Sepik river and Milne Bay and you will be even more curious about this country. In there you will also find some good contact persons in Alotau (Gretta & Co.), Wewak and Tari.

Around The World In 365 Days

Note the comments you have recieved about the upcoming elections - that could be an issue.

Good luck!!!

EvAnders

Hi Haegar,

I'm a 27 year old female and I was lucky enough to travel to PNG for work last year and I have to say that I found the place thoroughly enjoyable and really wished that I could have stayed longer. Yes, you have to use more common sense than most places and really as a female I would heed the warnings of everyone else on this forum and not walk around at night time, wear lose fitting clothes and stay in reputable hotels. (which really are warnings that could be applied to most places!) I didn't feel unsafe at any time but obviously I was also accompanied everywhere that I went - it doesn't look good for the business if staff start to get injured!

I wouldn't not go because of the travel warnings, I think that they are overrated. You will hear bad stories and I guarantee you that most of them are true but the country is just amazingly beautiful (even port moresby!) and the people are very friendly. It will be an experience that you will never forget. In addition, if you are careful then you should be ok.

I would however probably keep an eye on news and perhaps contact your embassy in Port Moresby if you have one or perhaps contact the Australia embassy, for up to date information on which regions are safer to visit. Or perhaps there are even people on TT who can assist. There are areas that even the ex-pats who have lived there for 10 - 20 years wouldn't go. I would head out to the countryside such as Milne Bay, Alotau and up to the volcano at Tavurvur.

I would probably recommend in addition to the other posts, to try and plan ahead for your trip so that people know where you are and where you are heading, again just as a safety precaution. And I probably would try and travel with someone else, but if you can't then just listen to everyone elses advice about hostels etc.

The message (and I'm sorry I;ve forgotten who wrote it) about making sure that you have someone to pick you up from the airport is a very valid one, they taxi's are unreliable, I would make sure that your accomodation is collecting you from the airport.

Feel free to PM me if you have any other questions. I have a friend who works at the aussie embassy up there so could always prevail on him for advice..

Hi Pymble

Thanks for your message! It makes my decision a bit easier... I was a bit unsure wheather to go or not, how reasonable it would be and so on, and so on. But my curiosity and the impulse to explore is stronger than every objection ;o)

Another impression I've got through this forum is, that PNG must be very expensive. Is that true? What are the expenses for a day? Accomodation, food and extra money? Is it possible to make the trips alone (the safer ones...)? I must say, I haven't read a lot about PNG so far and there is so much more work ahead of me ;o) I just know that I want to see it ;o)

I also want to thank all the others for all the informations I've got. It's so nice to get advice from other travellers and it's good to know that I'm not alone ;o) My impresion is, that it should be manageable for me ;o) but to say the truth, I'm still a bit scared... but I can't wait ;o)

Big hug
hägar

Costs in PNG can vary enormously depending on how you travel.

If you fly around a lot, stay at expensive resorts, eat in hotel/resort restaurants etc. it can indeed be very expensive.
If you use boats and PMVs to get around, stay at the cheaper guest houses and eat in Kai Bars, it will be MUCH less expensive.
Still not as cheap as SE Asia of course, but definitely cheaper than your home country! ;-)

Basically, budget accomodation starts around 10-25 USD/night.
The higher prices will be in the cities, and include those very safe, church-run guest houses.
Greasy, western or Chinese-style fast food in Kai Bars starts around 1-2 USD and can be found in all cities/towns.
In some places, you can also buy more appealing, and more traditional cooked meals (like rice and chicken/fish cooked with coconut milk) sold in banana-leaf packaging for the same price from women sitting by the side of the streets or at markets.

Of course the safer trips can be done alone.
And even those for which you need local guides or chartered transport, like Highland treks or Sepik tours, can be organized much more cheaply on the spot than prices offered by tour-operators would suggest.

My intention is to travel on a shoestring. I even could cook myself if possible ;o) But Kai Bars and banana-leaf packages sounds ok too!

Can't wait to take off...

Hey Haegar,

I've been reading all this with facination as I'm planning a 3 week trip to PNG around sept/oct time and am a 24yr old female planning to go it alone too. I've had 5 yrs of travelling solo around the americas and asia but have never been to quite such a sexist country before. Am a little bit apprehensive having read Watsoffs bit about Port Moresby but am generally really excited and love meeting living with locals.

This was really just a post to gleam any more info from female travellers thier experiances and Im also wondering if any others going solo will be planning a trip around the same time?

Thanks to all those whove posted the above... really useful info,

Nixa

Bad choice for a single female White women are prizes and
you will be a target. The police won't help.
Be Very Very careful if you go. A palm tree is a palm
tree and a tropical beach is a tropical beach.
Do more research on the islands of the South Pacific
and Good Luck

this all really really makes me want to go back to TPNG! - I lived there in the late 60s (thankfully, during the Aussie Admin days - in fact I was living with a Patrol Officer ) -
I travelled all over by myself - but of course,it was safe then..

have any of you been to the Nebilyer Valley - outside of Hagen? I think the road thru to Ialibu is an actuality now, then we had to walk..

god I miss it!

Hallo,

I am another one going alone to Papua New Guinea soon - but I am not a woman :|

I will be sticking to the Milne Bay area (including the Trobriand Islands). I heard that its much safer, and I didnt want to make the old mistake of trying to squeeze too much in.
I also contacted Gretta at Napatana, who is indeed very helpful.
I will spend time wandering between villages on the Milne Bay coast, I think.

Happy to hear from anyone who might be there at the same time, or anyone with any tips.

Thanks,
LostScot

Nixa - I am there in Sept/Oct, also.

Hi. I just returned from a 2 week trip in PNG. Here is a brief trip report, contact me via PM for more info or contact details.

15th September - Lae

16th September - Lae - Madang (via PMV)

17th-19th September - Madang-Simbai for the Kalam Culture Festival. This was awesome, there is enough information about this in the LP and other posts. The Kalam Guest House (built by the community) costs 100 Kina per night for a bed and three meals and also be aware that they charge for the festival (100 kina per day!) so keeping in mind you need to fly there from Madang (340 Kina each way) its not a cheap venture! Also, I attempted to fly from Simbai to Hagan but this flight is sporadic and unreliable so I ended up going back to Madang.

19th & 20th September - Madang (stayed at the Lutheran Guesthouse - very nice and cheap)

21st September - Madang to Goroka via PMV (at least 7 hours, not sure didnt have a watch but it was long!)

22nd-24th September - Kerowagi Village (Simbu), stayed with Phillip KC and his wife Jennie. Excellent village stay in the Simbu area, you can contact me for Phillip's details, he speaks excellent english and has a guest house for people to stay in.

25th-26th Septmber - Goroka

Here are some brief thoughts on:

Travelling alone as a woman in PNG...

I had no safety issues during my 2 week trip which included the Highlands and several remote areas. I think if you take the obvious precautions regarding dress/conduct and you can perfect that 'dont mess with me' attitude in larger towns/cities then you will be fine. It also helps to speak a bit of Tok Pisin (not hard to pick up some basic phrases). I found the majority of men to be very chivalrous and willing to make sure I was okay, there were a few times when I had to be assertive when people wanted to 'show me around' etc. Better to be safe than sorry. I also didn't go out at night in most of the towns/cities (except Madang which felt very safe).

Pacific Time...

Remember to factor this into your itinerary. Its almost impossible to plan a trip to PNG too carefully and its important to keep your plans flexible. I travelled around everywhere by PMV (minivan) and you can generally double to estimated time of any trip (especially if you get on an empty PMV and they have to drive around waiting for it to fill up!). I took a trip from Lae to Madang which was quoted in the LP as being 4 hours but took 9, partially due the the fact that the entire bus insisted that I take photos of every and try everything at the roadside markets! Also if you are taking small planes to remote locations (like Simbai) keep in mind that bad weather means the the planes can be hours late or even not come at all!

Budget...

I travelled on a tight budget, if you stay in the cheapest accommodation (village stays or in Lutheran Guesthouses in the towns) and cook for yourself (get prepared for a lot of two minute noodles!) expect to spend a MINIMUM of 120 Kina per day. That does not include any flights.

2 ladies just arrived back from a month trip round PNG...
As usual were seriously put off this trip by most people we talked to...although none of them had actually been there. It does make it a very difficult decision to take but we thought we'd extend the budget a bit and go for it. And it was all worth it albeit with a lot of luck on our side!

Sepik

We directly flew out of Port Moresby to Wewak to organise a trip down the Sepik. We had emailed around first to various people and tour operators (of which around 2 exist) and then once we were out there, met up with them all to see who we felt comfortable with. Ended up going with PNG Frontier adventures with George Forgi and Luke Kama...all in all a fantastic trip. PM me for any more info on this.
We were lucky to meet locals in Wewak and they always kept us in good hands...didn't meet any tourists there and didn't feel too safe walking around the town.

Muschu Island

Dropped off at this island by some locals and it was pure wild paradise. We stayed at Clemence's little guesthouse..basic but charming...basically living as the locals do and Clemence's wife cooks up freshly caught fish of the day, coconut rice and plenty of bananas! they sure do like ther bananas! Stayed 3 nights here and visited some wrecks in the jungle and on the beach...the sea was crystal clear and did some snorkelling..brought our own gear with us! (would recommend bringing your own gear to PNG with you). We felt very SAFE here although remember to keep yourself covered with shorts and top at all times.

Madang

We took a cargo ship from Wewak to Madang. around 20 hours. Think they go twice a week. Still much cheaper than flying. OUr trip was calm and we booked 1st class and nabbed 2 bunks so slept with our luggage. Made sure we made friends with everyone around us..all very friendly. Toilets fine too. Security guards walking around too who stop any one from drinking...ie. take them out on deck for some 'lessons.' l

In Madang stayed in the budget rooms at Madang Lodge. Great place but food very pricey so just walked to the supermarket and bought food there instead.

Kimbe Bay - flew in here as no direct flights or ships from Madang

As we were told Kimbe bay was not the safest of places to stay and we are mega keen divers...we treated ourselves to 4 nights at Walindi. It is £50 each per night...which includes all your meals (fantastic), water and snacks, great accommodation, fantastic service and brilliant diving. Think about £35/dive but obviously less the more dives you do. Beautiful & amazing variety of corals, barrucada, few sharks, lots of schools of small fish. Only thing was there was no real beach at Walindi. Walindi was obviously very SAFE.

Rabaul - Had to fly here again - just one flight weekly from Kimbe Bay (Hoskins) to Rabaul

Here we stayed in the budget room at Taklam Lodge that were superb value for money! we were in room 1 which was great and had Satellite TV. Shared shower facilities but that was all clean and fine. Lovely people with whom we made great friends. This place is also run by the Kokopo Beach Bungalows so you can go over there for breakfast and sunbathing, lounge in the lovely bar area and see the volcano at sunset.
Kokopo and Rabaul are safe to walk around by day. Though if you want to climb Mt. Mother take a guide and leave early.
We stayed too at Kabaira Beach Hideaway where the people were lovely and the food scrumptious but we found it very poor value for money. Unfortunately we can't comment on the diving as we had ear problems at the time.

If you can make it for the Warwagira and Mask festival, must be one of the biggest HIGHLIGHTS of PNG!

We flew back from Rabaul to Port Moresby and stayed with a mate we met in Wewak. He also lives in a fully guarded compound and said we weren't to leave at any time unless with him.

As a female, avoid travelling alone in Port Moresby, Lae and be very careful in the Highlands. Try to use a local guide where possible.
- Do not wear skimpy clothing
-Take no valuables out with you and no jewellery on you.
-Just be cautious when taking your camera out to take photos.
-Do not leave your place at night
-Make friends with as many people as possible...hotel staff..etc
-Be weary of taking PMVs outside of East New Britain and New Ireland. Madang seems fine too but did see a bit of bloodshed.
-Use a safe where possible - most have safes at reception
-Book your internal flights as soon as possible to get special fares on Air Niugini.
-Find out in advance when cargo ships leave.
-Bring a tin opener and some packet food, cereal bars, crackers..etc if you on a tight budget.
-Learn some Tok Pisin to get by a bit.

PNG is one of most beautiful places..so wild, luscious and untouched. Saw very few tourists the whole time, absolutely none for the first 2 weeks. Just being there is fantastic and the internal flights are worth it for the views over the steaming volcanoes, amazing rainforest and coral attols. wow!