Trip report Sept 2017, POM to Madang

We've been in PNG a few days and it occurs to me that we have learned some things that would be useful to others planning a trip. So here goes:
Background
We're well-travelled Brits, including having been to the Solomons. We have arranged this whole trip independently. We booked almost everything in advance, back in Jan 2017. We have allowed a fair amount of contingency time for things going wrong. We're on a moderate budget with a splurge at Walindi.
Arrival
We came on Philippine Air through Manila, arriving about 08.30. I had got a visa in advance from the High Commission in London, but my husband got his on arrival. Both full-page and free. The visa-on-arrival queue took about 45 mins to process. Once through customs, there were a couple of ATMs that took both visa & MasterCard, max withdrawal 1200K. Also a couple of moneychangers, the rate for GBP looked good but the buy/sell spread was wider for USD. There was a small cafe open, and an Air Niugini desk. We had booked several internal flights with them over the web and had received occasional emails to warn us of flight schedule changes, so were keen to reconfirm. Good job we did! Our flight from Mt Hagen via POM to Hoskins had been changed: the POM-HKN leg had been cancelled and we had been put on the flight the following afternoon. The lady at the desk told us that we had to arrange accommodation overnight in Port Moresby at our expense. We went to the customer service centre (in between the 2 terminals) and asked for them to at least move us onto the flight in the morning. They weren't keen (the morning flight was more expensive and we had a lower class fare than would ordinarily cover it). But at last they agreed, moving us to a better time.
The international terminal is separate from the domestic terminal, you need to physically go outside but it's just a 5 minute walk. We checked our bags to Madang with PNG Air and had a bite to eat in the cafe in the domestic terminal - hot pies & ready-made sandwiches, good coffee. Fanta, Coke and even Coke Zero seem readily available everywhere.
Flight POM - MAD
A couple of hours late. Flew into Lae & dropped off a few passengers then continued to Madang. Total time 2.5 hrs. Most of the interior was cloaked in cloud, but what we could see was stunning, endless jaggy mountains clad in trees.
Madang
The hotel is about 4K from the town centre. We tried to get a PMV in on the Monday morning but they were all packed, so we used the hotel shuttle for 10K. Hundreds of locals hanging around the town centre, seemingly just spending time. Lots of people said hello, a few shook our hands, asked for photos with us. Doesn't feel threatening. A few supermarkets selling tinned fish etc, and a big market selling veg & betel nuts.

Tomorrow we're heading to Goroka in anticipation of the show.

Cheers! Heidi

subject to your own credit card limits you can usually make multiple withdrawls on the same card at the same atm
so can get 2 or 3 times the max of 1200 pgk

have a great trip - land of the unexpected (including flight schedules!)

hey Heidi!
Any updates?

hey - now back in POM & with some WiFi - not so common in guesthouses. We fly out tomorrow.

I'd say we've had a great time & it is a very interesting country to visit. But there have been a couple of pitfalls where our planning fell down, nothing serious. For example, the only dive operator in Madang was at the Madang Resort. We went there assuming that we could arrange some diving for the following day, but they said they were completely full & couldn't accommodate us (we snorkelled off Family beach, instead). Also, things can take a little time to happen. We got a PMV from Madang to Goroka, LP said it should take 5hrs, we were actually on the bus from 08.00 to 18.00. The first 1.5 hrs was waiting for the bus to fill, then some unexplained waiting, then a trip round various houses to collect some parcels, then some more waiting... I think the locals just aren't especially motivated by time, which was interesting although it made for a long day. But when we finally got to Goroka, the driver kindly dropped us off right outside the Lutheran guesthouse, where we were staying. The road was potholed in places, the actual driving time was probably 6 hrs.

Safety-wise, we heard various horror stories from ex-pats living here, but we have had no problems. On Independence Day (at the Goroka show) in the afternoon there was an almighty fight in the town, but it was just between locals. We stayed in the guesthouse & ate in that night. The following day (Sunday) we were a little jumpy and discussed for a while whether to go out that night, we did (returning in the dark about 7pm) and the streets were filled with families who had been enjoying a fireworks display. It felt fine. The Goroka show really is spectacular.

We spent more money than we expected. A lot of people are subsistence farmers, but the cash economy is expensive - about UK prices for meals, drinks, hotels, flights.

I'd say allow a little time for contingency, and apply common sense, and it is a very rewarding place to visit, also very beautiful. I'm sad to be leaving

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