Very long trip report (Hagen, Mt Wilhelm, Wewak, Muschu Island, Sepik)

Hi

Below is a report back of my recent travels round some of PNG for just over two weeks. Whenever I travel, for this trip included, thorn tree is my first and number one resource for information. I alway plan to write a trip report when I get back from a holiday but have never got round to doing it before. This time I have. Hopefully it will be useful, especially considering the VERY few posts there are on the PNG branch compared to other countries. Sorry, it is quite long :-)

Mount Hagen
Stayed at the Lutheran Guesthouse K100/night, twin beds with own bathroom. Just as the LP describes, small, basic but clean and completely adequate. Dinner R30, breakfast K20. Nothing fancy but tasty and plenty of food. It was full the Hagen show weekend and when I returned for one night after the hike it also seemed pretty full so probably best to book in advance if you can. Friendly staff and Rafael walked with me to the bank/shops etc. Internet place right across the road K11 per half hour. Banks and shops also right across the road. I met some other travelers who’d arrived and it was full so they let them pitch their tent on the grass in the backyard. These same people said they’d also stayed at the Catholic mission guesthouse which was fine and had kitchen facilities for K40 pppn

When emailing to book at the Lutheran GH, it is done through Pym who runs/owns Paiya tours. He had put together a Hagen show weekend tour package which included trip to his village (Paiya village) for a Mini show - dance, courtship, village tour - on the Friday and guides and tickets to the Hagen show. I didn’t sign up for the package as I wasn’t arriving in time. I ended up arriving in Hagen later morning on the Saturday and after checking into the guesthouse didn’t want to hang around there and didn’t know how to get to the show and wasn’t sure about just arriving there alone. So I called Pym and he came and picked me up and took me to the show where we stayed for about 2 hours. The rest of the ‘tour group’ and other tourists has been there all morning watching the groups get ready, which they said was nice but I was happy with the 2 hours I had there. Tickets are K300 for a 2 day tourist pass which as LP says allows you to take photos, up close, for no payment.

The next day the rest of the group decided they’d prefer to go the Enga show in Wabag instead of a second day at the Hagen show so Pym organized a bus to take everyone there (K100 each and K50 to get into the show). It’s about 2 and half hours drive up there but the scenery is very nice. The show itself was much smaller than Hagen show and a different vibe. Everyone who went I think was happy that we’d gone there for the second day and not back to the Hagen show. .

While at the guesthouse, Steve Warili from Warili lodge in Tari came around as he was in Hagen and transporting some guests back. Someone asked him the costs at his lodge – K160 per night including three meals was his answer.

Mt Wilhelm
I had 5 full days to do something before flying out of Hagen to Wewak. I was considering heading up to Tari but I always had a slight preference for climbing Mt Wilhem and had bought all the ‘warm’ stuff with me so in the end decided to do that. The evening before leaving I heard from some Canadian guys who had headed up to Kegesul that there was some political tension up the road with lots of road blocks etc so probably not a good time to come. I decided to go anyway, head to Kundiawa and check out the situation and if really not advisable I’d jump back on another PMV and head down to Goroka or Madang. As I was leaving the Lutheran Guesthouse, this guy Joe was waiting for me (I’d bumped into him 2 days before and mentioned I might go to Mt Wilhelm and he mentioned he was from the area and that was the end of that). Anyway, Joe decided he was coming with to me Kundiawa and adopted himself as my guide. I guess I could have made a fuss but seeing as I was travelling alone, into a potentially ‘unsafe’ area I decided to let it be. So I ended up paying for his PMV ride to Kundiawa (K10 each).

Once in Kundiawa, we went shopping for food (for both of us for 4 days). Now he was really getting to be my guide without us actually discussing it or any costs. Joe then went off to try find a PMV to get to Kegesul. Now because of the political situation/tension, there were actually no PMVs that he could find heading up that way. After looking for about an hour he came back and said we could get a lift up (and back for the price I was told although didn’t end up being) with the police for K250. This was probably quite a lot but I didn’t feel like spending the night in Kundiawa not knowing if the situation would be any different the next day, and for the peace of mind and security agreed to it. Now I believe that the police guys were probably heading up that way anyway so didn’t go up just for me, and made a little cash off it but anyway…The road up from Kundiawa to Kegesugl is in very poor condition, but is very scenic, takes about 3 hours.

I stayed at the East Kegesul guesthouse, paid K60 per night. Not sure if that’s per room (2 single beds) or per person. K10 for dinner/veges – besides the veges the rest of the food I’d bought earlier. Joe cooked dinner for me the first night as Josephine, the owner of the guesthouse had to go to a funeral. Electricity until 9pm. Hot showers and yummy strawberries. I stayed here the first night and a night after the hike and was very happy to do so. Josephine is a very friendly, honest person who did everything to make me feel welcome and sort all my needs out.

The hike
I paid Joe K400 for the 4 days (one day getting to Kegesul, 2nd day hike up to Lakes, 3rd day chill at the lakes to acclimitise, 4th day to summit and back to Kegesul). Joe also carried my backpack up to the lakes. On returning to Kegasul I once again had a transport problem as there were still no PMVs running because of the elections. After 13 hours of walking, Joe then walked an hour and a half down to Gembol, where the police station was to sort out a lift with the police back to Kundiawa the next day an then and walked back late that night. This time I paid K100 for the lift down. I chatted to Josephine and she said the rate is K100 for a guide for a day (K200 if you stay the extra day at the lakes), so K400 was too much. So Joe did overcharge me a bit but he did look after me very well, got me up and down the mountain, carried my pack and also put a lot of effort into sorting out lifts for me so I didn’t feel too hard done by. Joe’s contact number 71277498

There are two ‘guesthouses’/huts at the lakes. The A-frame hut is no longer managed by the National Parks as LP says. Both are managed by guys from Kegesugl. I stayed in the A-frame hut. There are mattresses and pillows and what appears to be clean sheets, and all cutlery/crockery/pots etc and gas. I was very comfortable and happy to stay here. I was the only one so had the place to myself.

I also went over to the other guesthouse which did look slightly nicer – completely separate bedrooms and a bigger, brighter communal eating area. I asked Joe who/how it is decided about which hut to stay in. He said it’s up to the guide really but he liked to support the guy who owns the A-frame hut because he is a nicer person and gives to the community/village more. I was happy with that.

There was a notice in the A-frame hut saying: 1 night K80, 2 nights K150, 3 nights K250 (I think this last one may be a mistake). Contact Henry Agum 73440837 or Vincent ?? (coulnd’t read the surname) 72512704. Joe organized the keys to the hut and I paid K60 per night. You also need to pay K10 to the landowner for the hike.

The hike itself…
We left the lakes at 1.15am. I walked rather slowly but hardly stopped and got to the top just before 7am. Unfortunately it was cloudy (and wet and cold (ice particles not rain/drizzle drops at times)) so didn’t hang around and started heading down again. It cleared up a bit later so could see down onto the lakes which was very pretty. Got back to the lakes just after 11am, had a bite to eat, packed up and then headed down, got back to Kegesugl at about 2.30pm. I could hardly walk by the time we got back; my knees were knackered.

Considering that I am not currently very fit at all and people I spoke to and comments I’d read in comments book at the GH all said the hike was ‘very tough’’, I was actually expecting it to be a lot tougher than it was. But perhaps spending the extra day to acclimatize (and I’d spent 2 weeks working before arriving in Hagen at over 2000m) made the difference.

You definitely need something warm to sleep with at the lake huts; it’s cold at night, if not a sleeping bag then blanket. I had gloves and a beanie both of which I used. It had rained quite a bit over the few days before we climbed so it was very wet and muddy walking up and down. My trainers (did not have proper hiking shoes) and socks and trousers up to my knees were sopping wet and hence cold but I survived. Perhaps gaiters would have helped.

If I did this trip over, I think I would do the 3 day hike from Kegesugl to Madang rather than climbing Mt Wilhelm. While there is something very rewarding about getting to the top of a mountain, I think I would have enjoyed walking through and staying in villages (ie more interaction with local people/scenery) more than spending the time up the mountain by myself and my guide.

Wewak
Stayed at the Sepik Surf lodge which is right across the road from the airport, mainly because I hadn’t organized anything for the Sepik and was hoping Alois the owner could help me out and because I was flying out to POM at 6am so staying close would mean I could walk to the airport and not have to worry about getting a lift. (and I wanted to leave my warm gear in Wewak and not take to Sepik so wanted to stay at the same place before and after the trip).

Costs: K95 for fan room, shared bathroom, K125 aircon shared bathroom, K145 aircon, own bathroom. Shared bathroom was functional, nothing more! K40 for dinner. Alois’s contact number 72596349

Used the internet at Wewak boutique hotel – K15 for half an hour but VERY slow.

Muschu Island
Before heading to the Sepik I had two days to spare so decided to head over the either Muschu or Yao (pronounced yall). Alois who is the owner of the surf lodge offered to call either George (for Muschu) or Roa?? for Yao. He said that the facilities on Yao were slightly nicer but the island was further to get to so would costs more for fuel (aboutK85 on way, so would need to pay for 4 lots of K85 to get there and back). Based on this alone, I decided to go to Muschu rather. There is one bungalow/hut with two rooms. Pretty much just a mattress (and sheets/pillow) on the floor and mosquito net, your shower is the communal water tap and no electricity but the location is amazing. Right on the waters edge with snorkeling etc. Great way to spend a day or two chilling. George’s contact number 72978746

Alois contacted George from Muschu island to say I was coming and he came over to fetch me in his boat; he was waiting for me near the post office. Costs on Muschu: Boat to and from the island: K50, Dinner: K20 (I took my own food for breakfast and lunch but they can do that for you as well if you want); K40 per night for accommodation. Snorkel/fins hire K25 – snorkeling was not bad. I decided to do a ‘day trip’ to a natural, fresh water pool on the other side of the island. This involved getting to the other side of the island by boat and then a 10 minute walk to the pool. This cost K250. I didn’t confirm the price before I went so was a bit shocked when I saw it and wouldn’t have gone had I known beforehand. I don’t think paying K250 was worth the trip, but maybe if you’re sharing with other people it would be okay. George can also organize a visit to the village or a walk to see some plane wrecks but I didn’t do either of these. Lay in the sun and swam instead.

Sepik
There was a British couple who were planning a 13 day or so trip up the Sepik with Jospeh Kone. I was very keen to join them both for the company and to reduce the costs of the trip. Unfortunately this didn’t work out because they wanted to go to the crocodile festival and so our dates didn’t coincide. I then contacted Chris Karis to get a quote for a trip. I had said I had about 9/10 days and was thinking about spending a few days on the islands. He quoted me K9600 for a six day (5 nights) trip up the river (staying at their guesthouse at Kanganamun for 2 nights, one night at Mamari village, one night at Black water lakes, one night in Chambri), 2 nights on Yao Island and all transport, food, guides etc included. This was just too much for me to pay alone so I didn’t go with Chris.

So I arrived in Wewak with nothing organized, and as mentioned before decided to stay at the Sepik surf lodge because LP said that Alois organized trips so thought he may be able to help me out. I’d met another traveler/backpacker in Hagen who had done the Sepik alone – without organising through a company or guide and he’d given me a lot of useful information and contacts of people I could stay with etc, so was seriously considering just heading up to Pagwi on a PMV and going alone. In the end I decided not to do this – while it certainly would have been a WHOLE lot cheaper, for me personally, I just preferred the easy and comfort of having things organized, having a guide etc. Even though the trip ended up costing lots of money, I do not regret for a second going on an ‘organised’ trip.

So having decided not to try do this alone, knowing Joseph was still up the river and Chris being too expensive I decided to just go with one of Alois’s (Sepik Adventures) trips. I had the days to spare so decided on a 6 day, 5 night trip (which was the same price as a 4 night, 5 day trip). The initial cost of this, for me going alone was around K8000 although Alois said he’d give me a discount which reduced this to K6400. At the very last minute, two other tourists arrived at the Sepik lodge, who also had not organized a trip yet, and they decided to join me. I should add that they had not wanted to do as many as 6 days but in the end they were glad they did. Them joining me reduced the price to K3500 per person. A huge relief for me money-wise but also it was very nice to have some company for the six days. Our guide for the trip was Phillip (cousin of Alois), our boat driver was Albert and then Mika, a guy from Yamok village joined us for the rest of the trip. The cost of the trip included everything – transport to Pagwi and back, all food (guides cooked and prepared all our meals. The food was pretty good), bottled water, boat, driver, fuel, accommodation, visit to a number of Haus tambarans.

Where did we go/stay
Started by heading downstream from Pagwi to the Middle Sepik
Night 1: Stayed at Yamok Village. This is about an hour and half walk inland from the river. We enjoyed staying here. Half way on the walk between the village and river there is a market that happens twice a week. The river people come up with their fish and the inland people with their sago and other food items and there is about half and hour of selling (and then if they can’t sell exchanging) products. Interesting to see.

Night 2: Palimbe. Stayed at Jacob’s guesthouse. Jacob had a generator. Lots of mosquitoes 

Night 3. Then headed upstream to the Upper Sepik. Stayed at Matthews guesthouse on Wagu Lake (Tuhiyo guesthouse). This was my favorite place by far. Had a nice walk around the village, Matthew took us to a stream that flows into the lake for a much welcomed swim in cool, clear water. The water temperature of the lake was horribly high. Also went and saw the (lesser) birds of paradise in the morning which was very cool. Matthew also has a shower and flushing toilet which although is by no means essential for a trip up the Sepik and was not expected it was rather nice to have. Matthew can be contacted at 7378 6776 or 7622 7658, wagulake@googlemail.com

Night 4: Stayed in Swagub village further upstream. While at all the other villages we stayed in ‘guesthouses’ (really just a separate structure for tourists) here we stayed in some locals people’s house. To be quite honest it was a bit weird/awkward. It wasn’t the fact that we were staying in their house, but rather that they didn’t say a word to us, so we felt like we were intruding. When we asked Phillip about this, he said that tourists all want to go to Swagub because it’s known as the insect tribe – no doubt influenced by what is said in the lonely planet, so they include it in the trip. Personally we saw almost nothing ‘insecty’ and I would definitely not feel like I missed out by not staying here.

Night 5: Stayed at Mino village (which was Phillip’s village) – downstream a bit from Swagub and off a side river. Phillip has only just built a guesthouse so we were only the second group of people to stay here. We didn’t see any of the main Mino village itself but did spend an afternoon at a village just round the ‘corner’ (unfortunately don’t remember its name), which was very pleasant – nice walk through the Sago trees, nice Haus tambaran and very friendly people.

Headed back to Pagwi and to Wewak on the last day. We were fortunate enough to be invited to a sing-sing that was happening at a village just past Ambunti. Due to a cholera outbreak along the river last year the department of health (or whatever the equivalent is in PNG) has organized a ‘best toilet’ competition. Someone from the department was visiting the village to hand out prizes and so the sing-sing had been organized for that. That was nice to go to as it wasn’t put on specially for us (tourists) and we didn’t fork out any extra money for it.

Overall, I really enjoyed the 6 day on the river. Although it cost quite a bit, it was definitely worth it in my opinion. In retrospect, although I have no doubt spending 13 days on the river (which I would have done had I been able to join the two other travelers with Joseph) would have been very special in it’s own way and we would have gone to some much more ‘untouched’ places on the river, six days was enough for me, especially considering a 13 day trip would have meant I would not have been able to climb Mt Wilhelm or go to Muschu.

What I took and didn’t take and did and didn’t use
- I did not have my own mosquito net and did not need it. All the places we stayed on the river and George’s place on Muschu had mosquito nets. If you traveled on the Sepik alone and did homestays etc then I’m sure it would be essential though.
- Mosquito repellent: definitely needed although not sure it always helped! Take plenty
- Water purification tablets: We were provided with bottled water throughout the river trip so did not really need although we did use to purify water for brushing teeth. There was fresh, clean water up at the lakes when climbing Mt Wilhelm.
- Sleeping bag: Definitely needed for hiking Mt Wilhelm but not needed anywhere else.
- Proper hiking shoes: I only had trainers with me. These got wet through walking up Mt Wilhelm so had rather cold feet for a few hours but I survived. Considering the extra space another pair or proper hiking shoes would take up, I’m glad I didn’t take them and if I did things over would not take them.
- Headlamp: Essential. For climbing Mt Wilhelm but also used every night on Muschu and on the Sepik. One or two villages had a generator for a few hours but otherwise no electricity
- Local (digicel) sim card. I bought one and used it quite a lot.
- A mosquito bite on my leg got very infected so much so that I could hardly walk. Luckily this was right at the end of the Sepik trip so I was able to get some antibiotics on my way home. Had this happened at the start of a 14 day trip up the river, things may not have turned out so well. If you can, perhaps it’s a good idea to try take some general antibiotics with you

I should also add… I bought a few carvings up the Sepik and was very worried about taking them home through Australia. My companions on the Sepik also bought some and were so worried about them being confiscated that they posted them home. I didn’t have the time to get them posted so ended up taking them with me. I did declare them at customs going though Australia (Cairns) – they were inspected and I got through without any problems.

Total cost for 17 days was about K9 000. This included three flights (Hagen-Wewak, Wewak-POM, POM-Cairns). Accommodation: K900, Sepik trip: K3500, Other transport:K550 (but included the two lifts with the police to Mt Wilhelm), Food and drinks (K400) (Note: this included only one alcoholic drink (beer) for the whole time), guide for Mt Wilhelm: K400, Other: K850 (internet, souvenirs, laundry, Enga show, day trip on Muschu).

One last thing to add, if you hadn’t picked it up, I was a female (mid 30s) traveling alone and I had absolutely no problems at all. People everywhere are very friendly and always looked after me.

Here is a link to a few of my photos if you're interested http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150356121530552.394147.652905551&l=8711c96b27&type=1

Cheers
Carolyn

Hi Carolyn!

Thanks SO much for posting your trip report, it's FANTASTIC!! Lots of information to take from it, and your photos are really nice...I'm hoping to see some crystal blue water when I get there too!

Much appreciated,
Karen

Yes thank you very much, been looking for a good, recent report. I was on the fence, but I think you're post swayed me to go. Thanks!

A splendid report, full of useful information. Thanks so much for posting----your photos are great too!

I've sent you a PM with a couple of questions, thanks...

Karen

Fabulous report and pictures, thanks for posting!

Hi there,

A great report on PNG!

Im trying to organise a trip there now and wanted to ask some basic questions:
1. Im flying into Port Moresby. Is it best to arrange internal flights from a travel agent there when I arrive? Or should I do this from oz knowing that I will want to fly domestically after only a few days in Port moresby?
2. If Im going to do a similar trip to yours (i.e to Mt wilhelm, sepik river etc) is it best to convert a heap of money in port moresby before I go to these area's or is it possible to get money out of banks in these towns?
3. should i carry USD cash?
4. did you take malaria tablets? is doxyclyine ok?

thanks

Hi
1. I booked my three flights on the internet (one with Airlines PNG and two with Air Nuigini) through the airlines' websites. If you know that dates you want to fly I don't see any reason why not to book them beforehand online. The longer you book them in advance the more chance you have of getting on the cheaper seats. If you don't have a set itinerary maybe it is worth not booking them in advance, but even then I wouldn't even hesitate to head to the internet to book when you do know. Going to a travel agent seems like a bit of a hassle... I'm sure there are some around but I didn't see any. Otherwise you could go to the airport.

2.Not knowing how I would end up doing a trip up the Sepik, knowing that the cost of trips up the river with a guide/company are not cheap and hence needing lots of cash and considering the possibility that I may end up with a guide, not affiliated with a company or doing it alone where using a credit card would not be an option, I came prepared. I got a bunch of Kina in Aus before heading over and carried a few hundred Aus $ and US$ in cash. I changed the $ to Kina in a bank in Hagen; I'm sure you could do the same in Wewak. You can draw cash from ATMs however there is a limit of how much cash you can draw so this may not be enough to pay for everything. For my trip up the Sepik, because I ended up going through Sepik Adventures, it was possible to pay the full amount using a credit card but if you went alone or with a local guide this may not be the case. I'm not saying that the way I did things (ie carrying quite a lot of cash) was the best way, but it worked for me and I didn't get stuck without cash at any time.

1. Yes, I took Malaria tablets (not needed for Hagen/Mt Wilhelm). There were a lot of mosquitoes on the Sepilk. I took Larium (Mefloquine) - I've taken it many times without any problems so have no issues with taking it, plus it's only once a week. Malarone is supposed to be the best but it is expensive. Other people I met were taking doxycycline.

Cheers
Carolyn

Hi there - I've been on a couple of trips in PNG - and the Sepik is on my list for my next trip

Thank you so much for such a brilliant detailed report

I shall now go and look at your photos with envy ;-)

This is a good report especially from the Sepik tour . I have made the same experience ,that the best place is Wagu lake and it is not necassary to drive so much with the boat up and down the Sepik. It is better to go directly to Wagu lake and stay some days more ,so you save much money . But the problem is all the guides want to earn money by driving boat , so you must contact Mathew -the owner
of Wagu guesthouse- directly by phone . He has also a boat and is a guide ,so he can also arrange your transport .

His phone nummber ++675 7378 6776 email wagulake@googlemail.com webpage www.sepiktours-individualrates.de

Thanks for the beautiful photos, Carolyn. Just thought I would let you know the bird on the young boy's head in your photo #59 is a Western Black-Capped Lory, one of the many endemic birds of PNG. Ancienttraveler

Oops, wrong thread.

Edited by: Watsoff