Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Walking The Black Cat Track

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Papua New Guinea

I am planning to walk the Black Cat Track in August 2008 and am seeking advice from those who have already done it:

  1. Is Wau the best starting point and then walk to the village of Kaisenik to start the walk proper?

  2. What's the best way to get to Wau?

  3. Will I be able to hire a guide and porter in Wau or should I hire them in Kaisenik?

  4. How much should I pay the guide and porter?

  5. Will I be able to sleep in village guesthouses each night or do I need to take a tent?

  6. Do I need to take a sleeping bag or is a sheet enough at night. If I need a sleeping bag, is a light weight one okay?

  7. Will I be able to buy some garden food along the way, or do I need to take all the food that I will need for myself and the guide/porter?

I think that's it. I have read the excellent trip report posted by Wanemya last year, but thought I should get the views and tips from as many people as possible. I look forward to your replies.

Edited by: northmelbournedn

Hi there

With a female friend I walked the Black Cat Trail April08 and it was a very enjoyable trip - not as strenuous as expected and very hospitable people.

We walked the original Black Cat, not the Skindiwai track which is easier, better graded and often referred to as the Black Cat. It's up to you which one you'd prefer to walk but I was keen to visit the Black Cat mining area that gave the track its name (you do not pass it on the Skindiwai track). The Skindiwai track joins up with the Black Cat proper near Waipali.

Some background that'll helpfully answer a few of your questions:

A lightweight sleeping bag is fine - you may be able to get away with a sleeping sheet/liner but the first night is quite high/cool.

Our route started at Wandumi, taking a 4WD from Lae via Wau. Itinerary was
Day 1 Wau to Bitoi
Day 2 Bitoi to Gwalbi
Day 3 Gwalbi to Buisden
Day 4 Buisden to Komiatum
Day 5 Komiatum to Salamaua

You should easily eb able to complete the track in 4 days - 3 days if you're fast. We took 5 due to my friend sustaining a knee injury on day 2.

The key ingredient for the success of our trip was our guide Thomson Yumandi. He, and other guides, charge about 60Kina a day. You should be able to travel light so if you take 10-15kgs the guide can take the same again. No need for a porter.

You can sleep in village houses/guesthouses aliong the way provided you make it to the village - we took a very cheap, very lightweight tent that we used half the time that also served to keep the mossies at bay too - if you decide against a tent then make sure you take a mosquito net.

I'd suggest taking enough food for you and your guide - you can swap food with local people around the camp fires at night

The track is accessible from Lae, the capital of Morobe province. There are several flights daily from Port Moresby to Lae ($A210 return).

From Lae take a pre-arranged 4WD from Wau Adventures (info@wauadventures.com.pg) to the trailhead at Wau ($200 one way, for up to 5 people). To return to Lae from the end of the track in Salamaua catch a daily banana boat ($10 one way).

Please feel free to email me on jonathansssmith@hotmail.com and I can email you an article I wrote on the trip, maps as well as contact details for a guide and other logistical stuff.

Cheers
Jonno

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Thanks Jonno for the info above. It is great to hear from someone who has walked the Track recently.

I have sent an email reqesting the info you have available.

Cheers,

David

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