9 days in samoa - where to go?

Im considering a 9 day holiday in Samoa in August, but before I go out and buy the LP I was hoping you TT folk could give me a few tips on where to go etc so I can do some further research on the net before deciding.

Im interested in having a few days on a beautiful beach staying in a fale and pretty much doing nothing but lazing.
Id also like to spend a few days doing some trekking, preferably somewhere fairly mountainous and lush for the views.

Im a very independent traveller and have no problem getting on a bus every few days to check out new things, also interested in going to places to meet other backpacker types where there might be some beach bars and a bit of a social scene, but where there are likely to be locals too (ie not totally tourist orientated)

Am not interested in going to any package holiday type places!

Any tips?!

Cheers all

Oh, and I would like to do a dive or 2 as well........

Here's a nice site to start with:

http://www.virgincoveresort.ws/

I am a big fan of Safua Hotel on Savaii - not far from the Wharf at Salelologa.
It is a family run operation and gets you access to village life and traditions.
Trips to the spectacular Taga Blowholes; walk up to the mysterious Pulemelei Mound; swim beneath Olemoemoe Waterfall; visit the Lava Fields or relax on Lano Beach.

I am sure some of the "locals" will be along soon - I've been away from the Branch for a while, so I'm not up-to-date with the latest gossip, but for anyone who has missed me, I'm back here now, and hope to play with you all a bit more regularly!

Rob

Virgin Cove is really no longer a backpacker place... Their prices have moved it out of this genre into a destination for honeymooners who want a "rustic back to nature concept". It is, sadly, not nearly as social as it once was.

I, too, would recommend Virgin Cove. It's true, it's prices have jumped a bit, but so has it's quality and service - quite a bit. If you've followed the history of Virgin Cove at all, it's had essentially four "eras" so far. When it first opened, it was incredibly "rustic" and had some serious food and service issues. Then it enjoyed a period of increasing popularity, until at one point it was just about the only place you read about here. Next, another slump, mainly food, maintenance and service issues. And now, it's back on top of the heap again. The reason behind these eras: management. In the first days, the Swedish owners ran the place. They are techies, not service types. Then they enlisted the help of two local hospitality veterans: Matts and Sia, who also ran the Seipepa Travellers Home in Apia. Matts and Sia added numerous little touches to Virgin Cove, smoothed out some of the rough spots and supervised and trained the staff very closely. Era three, the slump: Matts and Sia left, going back to run their Apia operation full time. There were a series of interim managers, standards fell, and with the standards the reputation of the place. At one point, a set of managers deserted the property without notice and left it with no one to run it for several days! And now the current era: Matts and Sia are back! Once again the small touches and real service attitudes are back. The food is great, the fales have been fixed up and the staff is attentive and friendly. The prices are higher than the other very basic beach fale operations in Samoa, but you get an entirely different (and in my opinion much nicer) experience. With the vast majority of Samoan beach fale operations, the fales are built in a straight line down the beach, one right next to the other, with usually nothing in between but sand and the occasional coconut tree. In the most popular spots, there are often two rows of fales along the beach now. At Virgin Cove, the fales are situated a nice distance from each other, each surrounded by tropical vegetation and flowers, staggered at slightly different distances from the beach, with private pathways leading to them. There are locking cabinets in each fale, and the several times I was there most recently the linens and such were all in good shape - not always the case with beach fales. For breakfast and dinner, you actually get a choice of dishes, served to you at individual tables with candle light and a Samoan string band at hand during dinners. At most fales, whatever dish they've cooked is what you get, served at a communal table, often in a big fale with vinyl floor and under flourescent lights.

No matter what era, Virgin Cove has always had the absolute finest beaches in Samoa. Powder fine white sand with a number of private coves just west of the resort. There's also a nice trek heading west from the property along the coast, through coastal rain forest and at one point a nice fresh water spring-fed pool which pops up out of no where.

If you've got a couple of extra dollars, Virgin Cove is definitely worth a visit. However, due to it's isolated location, you will not get as much of a Samoan village experience at Virgin Cove as at some of the other places. I'd recommend Virgin Cove for whatever portion of your holiday you set aside for pure relaxation and recharging, after which (or before which) you could move around and check out some of the other spots.

Lalomanu is definitely the most social backpackers spot on Upolu, Manase the most social on Savaii. At both of these places on weekends the locals show up in great numbers. Sina PJ in the village of Tafitoala on Upolu is a good spot if you want to dodge the crowds but want a real village experience. Time it right and you might be there when that village has a siva (dance) or a tausala (normally a church fundraiser also involving dance, but this more traditional rather than the more "disco" style dancing at a siva). In Apia, the Outrigger is good, though lacks something in character and is a long walk from the center of things.

I've got to add my experience with Virgin Cove. I stayed there last December. It's beautiful, in a beautiful location but I felt that it was a resort run for the benefit of its staff not its guests. (Much like the Outrigger in Apia, also run for the benefit of its staff not the guests. If you're not up at 6 when the housekeepers start working you're gonna be. I've never seen so many rules posted anyplace. It felt like a prison.)

When you are being driven to Virgin Cove and you start your trip with the wait at McDonald's while a staffer gets a Big Mac do yourself a favor and get one too. You'll be glad you got the extra meal in and probably won't mind the secret sauce smell in the car.

It's dirty pool when dinner is included in the price, to make you sit and wait to eat while they push their appetizers which are not included. Don't want an appetizer, how about an expensive ornate cocktail? They don't light the lamps in the fales until dinner so you have to sit in the dining room, in the dark, except for candlelight, waiting and waiting. (And if they've booked a wedding then you'll wait on the wedding party.) Breakfast, no jam with your bread is possible. I thought there was a jam shortage in Samoa until I checked the shops in Apia. The first day they just forgot about the papaya soup which they did serve the second day.They serve you your morning coffee when they are good and ready. Bring a case of water with you, they only sell the little ones at a ridiculous markup.

The islolated cabins are nice. I didn't have one. Instead I had staff walking by all the time. One cleaning woman decided to make herself at home. She sat down in the chair next to me in front of my fale. I pretended I was reading my book, she started reading over my shoulder. I didn't know how to get rid of her. She wanted to hang with me. I had to flee my fale. But I must say she was about the only staffer without an attitude.

The good thing was that while they pick you up at 2 pm to drive you there, you have to be ready to leave at 9 am sharp. I couldn't wait to get out of there. Check your tab carefully.

In summary, while the lagoon and scenery were stunning the resort represented everything that I travel to the Pacific islands to avoid.

Yeah, the first couple of posts looked like somebody at Virgin Cove typing up their own ad... Check tripadvisor

Oh Just Great - I just read a post saying the Pasefika Inn in Samoa where we've booked for Oct (only 2 days) is possibly not up to the press - Now I read that Virgin Cove where we've got a full week is looking less than I'd hoped as well. I'll make sure I take a book (along with my hubby of course!); water; and my favourite munchies from home.

Can you recommend any close places to snorkel - and can we rent gear or do I have to bring my own?

thanks to all.
Nell08