Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Cycling Samoa - any advice appreciated

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Samoa

Hi,

I'm thinking of stopping over in Samoa for a couple of weeks in November on my way to NZ. I'm a keen cyclist and I thought this might be a cool way of travelling around (I'm taking a bike to NZ)- my experience has always been that you see more cycling and meet more people. I've limited South Pacific experience, only a week in the Cook Islands in 2006, so I'm hoping someone can give me some tips.

My understanding is that:
1. They have now shot all the stray dogs that might have mauled me.
2. Mid-November might be a little on the hot side for cycling.
3. Everyone has decided to drive on a different side of the road this month, which sounds a bit scary.

Might also do a Tonga stopover so any advice on there also appreciated.

Cheers!

From my Tongan cycling experience I can say take lots of water-Tongatapu was hot and I started a little late in the day.

Nice and flat though, not like Vava'u.

1

Cycling and Samoa is certainly not an easy match as it might be in Rarotonga. Because

  1. There are still many dogs waiting for you in the villages (the stray dog issue was only dealt with in Central Apia)
  2. Mid-November might be very rainy - usually there is a 2-weeks rain period around that time
  3. The road side switch will hardly affect you though. At least the drivers are sitting on the far left side as well, which might make it easier fro them to avoid hitting you.
  4. But Samoan roads are rather narrow and drivers are not prepared to meet cyclists at all (any kind of 2wheelers are very uncommon here unlike in Raro).

So altogether Tongatapu might be a better choice for cycling.

2

You will sweat to death at that time of the year. Apia is not a town to bike in. Around Savaii would be quieter but watch out for rampant dogs and buses.

3

Thanks for the advice. I was a bit uncertain about cycling mainly because of the heat in November (I'm more into cycling in Scotland and Sweden) and the dog situation didn't sound good.

I may just chill out in Samoa for a week and then same again in Tonga (without my own bike). This is my first stop on a round-the-world-flight and it sounds like a good place to relax while I get over the jet lag and appreciate a country I've never visited.

Can you recommend any good local operators to book accommodation/travel? I'll do a bit more research on the other forums and internet but I'm thinking it would be nice to do nothing for 2-3 days in a beach fale and then explore a bit.

4

I don't think they've shot all the dogs yet! That's a pretty big job....

5

Another thing to bear in mind is that Tongatapu is also quite flat, while the Samoas are hilly. Which makes the former easier to cycle, if also less scenic.
I though some of Samoas more scenic roads were actually in/across Upolu's hilly interior, though of course most roads are along the coast.

6

Having cycled around the big island of Savaii 10 time I can add a few comments:

Dogs: - Not sure they are worse than anywhere else I've cycled. No one has been bitten on my trips. There are dogs, but they are mostly quite small and generally cower when threatened. I usually stop, shout "Halo" (literally go away) and if needed raise my arm as if about to throw a stone. Alternatively squirt them with water from a water bottle.

The roads around the coast of both islands are very rideable and sealed. The highest point of road on Savaii is 200m. The big hill on the Upolu Cross Island road is not part of any logical cycle route.

Savaii has excellent beaches, great fale accommodation at very reasonable prices and excellent snorkelling. The days are warm at 30 degrees - which makes swimming for an hour at a time a delight. Riding is best done in the mornings.

There are touring bikes for hire at Airport lodge or check www.bikesamoa.com.

Ross

7