samoa review

This forum was one of the few resources I found to plan my Samoa - US Samoa trip, so I thought of posting my experience on the islands to help future travelers. My main questions before leaving where (1) how to deal with Dengue/Rainy season; (2) how to divide up my two weeks trip and (3) how to chose between accommodations.

(1) Dengue/Rainy Season: I went at the end of the rainy season (March) and found very little rain. As many others posted, if that is the main concern for not going, simply bring some rain gear. Regarding Dengue mosquitoes, they are only a threat during the rainy season if an outbreak occurs. This almost never occurs in Samoa. All the tourist information says it is a higher threat on the US National Park islands (eg. Manu'a islands where you end up walking in the middle of 2 meters high tropical vegetation), but as the national park service put it down "it has the same probability of a tornado hitting you in Kansas". Needless to say, heavy dosages of bugs repellent are necessary throughout the islands, especially on Savai'i. Interesting enough, there are no poisonous animals anywhere on the islands.

(2) Dividing my two weeks trip: I spent the first five days on Savai'i, my favorite. After Savai'i I flew to American Samoa. Straight to the Manu'a islands via Pago-Pago. I only saw the center of Pago and would not recommend spending (if at all) any time there. The Manu'a islands were a unique experience. As the guide said though, there are some issues with transportation to get to/from the islands. Mainly: the airline has only one plane and if it breaks down you have to wait for them to fix it. This said, I would recommend these islands only if you are a serious enthusiast of volcano exploring (Ta'u) or snorkeling and enjoy have an amazing beach just for yourself (Ofu and Olosega). If you have to pick between the two I would recommend the second, just because they have a more general appeal. In my case, the plane broke down when I was on Ofu, delaying my stay by two days. The airline was very serious about it and covered all my charges (hotel extra nights and fees to change my Pago-Apia flight back). My total stay on the US Samoa was of a week, giving me only one last day to explore the island on Upolu. Given the cultural diversity on the independent Samoa islands, I think the American Samoa islands should be considered only for longer trips and again only if interested in the national parks, cultural-wise the place has been rather ruined, but it is interesting to pass through it once. Two days on each is sufficient, and if you have to pick, more time on Ofu is better (the question is whether you prefer walking in the rainforest - Ta'u or relaxing on the beach - Ofu). The last day on Upolu, I spent the night on Lalomanu beach fales and toured the island.

(3) Places to Stay:
Sava'i -- As the Lonely Planet Guide recommends, "Lusia's Lagoon Chalets' were absolutely wonderful, I based my stay there for the entire time. If you are looking more for a socializing place, local travelers recommended staying at Manase, on the north side of the island.

Upolu -- I stayed one night at Virgin Coves Fales on the south side, very beautiful but hard to get to; I spent the last night at Lalomanu beach fales, which I highly recommend and wish had spent more time there. It takes a minute to accustom to the idea of sleeping in an open Fale, but after you pass that, it is one of the greatest experiences ever (and also safe for women traveling solo).

Ta'u - I was placed in a home with the National Park home stay program. The home was ok but ridiculously overpriced. Where in Samoa you stay at a beautiful wood hut by yourself for 20$ a night on average, on the American islands you don't get by with less than 75$ for a completely anonymous room. The guide they provided me though (the great Leoso) was my best encounter on the islands.

Ofu and Olosega - I stayed at Vaoto's Lodge next to the runway. Very clean and nice, but a typical American motel style accommodation. If you are looking for a Samoan experience, Upolu and Savai'i are the places to go.

One final note.... food wise, Upolu and Savai'i where the best experience ever (hungry? here you go, Papaya tree....). This was not the case on the Manu'a Islands. The food at Vaoto Lodge was provided and very good, but everywhere else (or for food during the day) they rely on cheap convenience store canned food supplies. Not what you dream of once you head to Polynesia. The restaurant at Lusia's Lagoon Chalets had amazing seafood.

Hope this information will be helpful to anyone headed in that direction!

Actually Tutuila is a very beautiful Island, too bad you didn't have time to drive end to end.
Nice report however....

I really enjoyed my hike across Tutuila from Pago to Vatia, especially going down the jungle ladders. I would have liked to spend more time exploring the island. The musical bus ride to the end of the line was fun and scenic.

As for "cultural-wise the place has been rather ruined" please do elaborate. Was the Samoan spoken in AS not Samoan enough, were the family ties on AS not as tight as in IS, were they not as reglious on AS?

The main reason I might ever possibly go back to Samoa would be for the American half, especially the national park.
Tutuila was stunning even when only seen very briefly during a stopover there!

I guess that comment may have referred to changes like the fact that American Samoans no longer living in tatched fales and the like.
Most tourists tend to evaluatue "culture" based on such visually obvious factors, which is why islanders who put on T-shirts and shorts instead of grass skirts etc immadieately get declared as having "lost their traditional culture" even if that's the only change that actually took place!.

Actually, Amereican Samoans have pretty much "lost" their culture. They say Puerto Rico is the 51st $tate and American Samoa is the 52nd $tate. Waay toooo much dope/drugs etc., down there now. The Chiefs have lost their power.

Sad but true, Pago, though I maintain that the cultural decay and drug problems are significantly less pronounced out in Manu'a when compared to Tutuila.

Great trip report, bern6900. I too got "stuck" in Ofu in June because of airline problems. I made my escape by hopping an alia to Ta'u and catching the plane there.

--Terry
webmaster http://www.vaotolodge.com</a>