Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Advice for those considering hiking in Kolombangara

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Solomon Islands

I did this hike in June this year and wished I knew what I'm about to share with you (see comments below). I also have a detailed list of "things to bring" if anyone is keen.

General comment:

Hikers should understand that this is not an organised trek in the Himalayas (which has been done by many millions of times, where the accumulation of experience means that most things go according to plan, and everything is organised for the hiker down to the last little bit). Climbing Kolombangara on the other hand is completely different. The trail passes through areas not frequently visited, including by the guides. Some guides may not have been to the summit themselves. Sometimes things may happen on the way that may surprise even the guide.

Do not underestimate it simply because it is only a 2-day trek. Before you go, exercise regularly (say, a few hours each week) for at least a month. Aerobics and/or jogging would make the ascent easier. Cycling should prepare you for the ‘vines’ section (see description of the route below).

The route:

Traditionally, the trail starts from Iriri village. Now there is a possibility to do it from Hambere village (my guide told me that I was the first one who did it!).

This new route involves crossing two rivers. Sometimes, especially after heavy rains, the rivers could be flooded (water level could get to more than 1 metre high) and flow quite fast. There is no rope to assist with the river-crossing. A strong walking pole would be useful.

Before this alternative trail joins the ‘normal’ trail, it passes through a vast area covered in vines. (I understand that the normal trail from Iriri also goes pass the vines.) Trying to avoid tripping, which is inevitable anyway, can be extremely exhausting. Walking slowly, it takes about 3 hours to complete this ‘vines’ section. If your guide is attentive enough to cut the vines for you along the way, which does help to some extent, allow for 4 hours or more.

Climate:

Generally hot and humid during the day, but it can be quite chilly at night at Professor’s Camp. A sleeping bag or warm clothing to sleep in is essential.

It rains on most days in Kolombangara. That means the trail will be muddy and rather slippery, and it is necessary to have things that keep your essential items (especially sleeping bag and sleeping mat) dry.

Costs:

Climbing Kolombangara, organised through Dive Gizo, involves the following costs (in Solomon dollars):

v Boat transfers from Gizo - $800 each way (ie. $1600 return) per boat

v Entrance (ie. kastom fees?) - $200 per person (from Iriri); $150 per person (from Hambere)

v Guide - $350 per day (from Iriri); $200 per day (from Hambere)

v Carriers - $350 per carrier per day (from Iriri); $100 per carrier per day (from Hambere)

v (Optional) Accommodation in leaf house in the village before or after the walk - $10 per person per night

v (Optional) Food in the village $100 per plate - mainly fish, rice and fruit

v Equipment hire can be arranged with Dive Gizo. Cost of hiring a tent, a sleeping mat and a pot for cooking: $100. Note that the quality of hired equipment cannot be guaranteed.

The accommodation and food costs seem a little back to fromt to me.

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Haha, I know. I didn't actually stay or eat in the village (I stayed at Fatboys!! A wise choice especially after a gruelling climb). Those figures were provided by Dive Gizo when I made inquiries with them in June. I was told that the accommodation is very basic - and they do mean 'basic', ie. no bed, just a mat on the floor, and the toilet is... well, of course, Sollie village style. So it's like camping essentially, which explains the quote.

On the other hand, western style food is presumably extremely hard to get there, which is probably why it costs a fortune. Most guests just bring their own, I think.

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The fish should not be that difficult, but rice is a luxury in villages, and fruit depends on where you are - some places easy, some not.
I would expect to pay $150 to $250 per day for village accommodation and all meals.
There would not be cooking facilities at this level, so you would be depending on the village for food.

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There is also a new eco-lodge in the clod forest set up by conservation international in partnership with KFPL and the locals that's supposed to be good... Food is included in the accom cost I think and the quality of the hiking tracks around there have been improved...

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