Advice on Itinerary, transportation schedules

Hi, travelers. Thanks in advance for your help. I've been following this thread for almost a year and you guys are awesome!

My husband and I are visiting the Solomon Islands, flying into Honiara on August 25th and flying out on Sept. 12th. We are really excited to visit the country- to enjoy cross cultural interaction with local folks and the gorgeous environment. We both have taken a basic dive course, but will probably not dive (or if I can twist my husband's arm, maybe we'll dive once, if we find a mellow, easy dive with lots of supervision).

We are thinking of spending time on Malaita and in the Morovo area. We would love to stay in a village environment or with local folks and are on a tight budget (ie. layoffs in the US, but we are still going for it!) We're thinking maybe Thomas' stay in Langa Langa? In Morovo, Ozzie seems to suggest Matikuri? They sound to be in gorgeous areas and with a local families? But also close enough to dive (Matikuri) if we actually decide to go for it once?

So here's a logistical question. From reading, it seems that boats go from Honiara on Mondays and Fridays. We're trying to figure out with this short stay if it makes most sense to:

Arrive in Honiara on Tuesday and take a boat to Auki on Friday? Is Tues- Fri too long to stay in Honiara?
Ie. Honiara - Malaita - Morovo - Honiara?

Or does it make more sense to go Honiara - Morovo - Malaita - Honiara instead? Does this order get us into the provinces quicker and maximize our time out of the city?

Any insights into boat schedules, suggestions in itinerary, or accommodations are very much appreciated.

Thanks very much for all of your help! Happy Travels!

Dunno where OG is now, so I note that she doesn't usually recommend any place in Western Province as far as I can recall.

She does tend to enthusiastically recommend a place in Malaita though, and that is in the Lau Lagoon, rather than in Langa-Langa. Contact details here.

I would definitely find staying in Honiara Tue-Fri a bit too long.
The city is not really attractive, and most people would find a full day there plenty.
But if you want to fly out to Western Province ASAP, advance flight bookings might be a good idea. Otherwise, you could also check for any boat leaving for either Malaita or Western Province upon arrival. Note that Solomons boats are not exactly up to most westerners' standards and expectations though - they certainly tend to be VERY crowded!

Hi Tmarie

If you arrive Honiara Tues that probably means around 1 or 2 pm. The express boat to Auki departs 7am Friday so that really only means 2 full days in Honiara. I understand Laszlo's thinking above (i.e. Honiara is a dirty, urban environment) but 2 days is not so bad. It will give you time to adjust to the climate and place. Just hang out a bit. Check out the tourist outlets (Betikama, NPF Plaza, Citi Centre, Mendana Hotel) just for fun so that you understand what tourist goods are around. Visit the museum (small but interesting), central market, some of the hotels, etc.

Re: your proposed itinerary, you cannot travel direct Auki to Western Province (Marovo, Gizo, etc). You will have to come back to town (Honiara) to overnight. In terms of going West first or Malaita first, it depends on your prior travelling experience and your desired level of comfort. Do you want a gentle start or to be dropped straight away into it? The West wins hands-down in terms of tourist facilities and the dramatic geology (volcanic islands, massive coral lagoons). Malaita tends to be hotter, wetter, and it has fewer tourist facilities. However, Malaita has the artificial island communities (Langa Langa, Lau and south) which are unique to Mala and it has a fairly strong social "presence".

Laszlo is thinking of the merchant boats re: crowding. His comments do not apply to Solomon Express and Pelican Express ( to Auki and West) which are basically like public buses in terms of comfort level. The day-long haul from Honiara to Gizo is a bit of a drag but you see some great scenery once you enter the Marovo lagoon. The trip Honiara to Auki is a breeze (maybe 2.5 hours in good weather).

If you are on a tight budget it makes things harder. Nevertheless a basic guest house in Gizo, Munda or Auki is a pleasant way of life. Be aware that the exotic white beaches you see in tourism brochures are at resorts and not major towns. Most newcomers find Gizo the most attractive destination - it has a couple of bars and just enough food outlets to feel like you have some choice.

Thank you so much for your responses!! It is very much appreciated!

I understand that express boats (sounds like Solomon Express & Pelican Express) fall into this category leave from Honiara to Malaita on Mon & Fri. Is this the same schedule from Honiara to Morovo?

Do merchant boats travel to Malaita or Morovo daily? Can we just show up at the docks and find something going our way? We are up to travel any way to get to the islands (we backpacked a year from Mexico to Bolivia so are familiar and comfortable with "local transport". Also a great way to meet local folks! Sounds like the merchant boats take longer? Ie. Honiara to Malaita or Honiara to Morovo would take how many hours on a merchant boat vs. express boat?

I can't seem to nail down the pricing for boats. Could you please tell me the difference in price of sailing to these islands vs. flying?

One more random question: I am a vegetarian (no eggs, chicken, fish, milk). I am very familiar with traveling and making sure that I have nuts, soy, dried beans, etc.. in my pack to suppliment protein with whatever else delicious food is around. Should I assume that I should do my usual travel protein "care pack", or is there a presence of beans in the local diet?

Thanks again for all of your help. We are so excited about this trip and your advice just made things easier! Have a great day!

Actually, the boat on the photo I linked to is NOT a "merchant" boat, but a passenger one!
The "merchant boats" (I'd call them mixed cargo-passenger ships) are a lot more basic. I took such a boat from Honiara to Auki, and it was an overnight ride with a stop in Ngela, I think. Then I took that passenger boat on the way back, with no stops.
A similar boat from Gizo to Honiara took 3 days, but that included plenty of stops great for seeing various islands/ports on the way.

I can't remember beans, but Auki's market was the best I've seen in the country for fresh veggies at very low prices.

Its probably not necessary to take vegetarian products with you from the USA, you will be able to buy most things in Honiara (probably a little expensive).

Good luck! I laughed when I read you post because it reminded me of when I was in PNG last year (I am also a vegetarian) and I can tell you that the 'concept' of being a vegetarian or vegan doesnt really exist over there! I stayed with a lovely family in the PNG highlands and even though I explained that I didnt eat meat, my house mother was totally perplexed and couldnt understand what I meant, and she just gave me meat anyway! I must admit I did feel a bit foolish, and I realised just how much vegetarianism is a 'luxury of choice' which really doesnt exist in PNG. It was very embarassing and I felt like a bit of an idiot. Anyway, they are very kind, they probably wont understand and you may have to seperate the meat/fish from the rest of the food. In terms of milk, dont worry, I doubt you will get milk over there anyway unless it is powdered.

Anyway, I would definately take a protein supplement of some sort. Their diet is very carb-heavy (e.g. sweet potato or taro instead of beans) and they tend to cook everything to death which gets rid of most of the nutritional value! If you are staying in villages the food can also be totally devoid of flavour/spices (especially without the meat) so I would take some sauces (e.g. soy and sweet chilli) with you!

As for the village stay in Lau Lagoon. I am going there 13th-20th August but that might be a little bit too late for you to get my reviews.

I am expecting OG to chip in with her 2 cents' soon. :-)

In the meantime I might add that I did find food prepared the traditional way quite delicious and healthy throughout Melanesia. I mean those yummy vegtables and meats prepared in an "umu" (earth oven) often with coconut milk. And these often involved various vegetables, though no beans.
Sadly, fatty fast-food or tinned food seems more popular these days!

Quick post - I am not sure how I missed this when it was posted, but have been more than usually busy this week. I will post something more comprehensive over the weekend.
In April the ferry to Auki (leaves 6pm, arrives 2am) was $100 SBD, Express $250 first class (cheaper economy, and still decent seats), Plane $745.
For the Lau Lagoon, cut and past the address in my sig line, and navigate to Malaita and then Lau village stay.

In Morovo, Ozzie seems to suggest Matikuri?
I don't know who said this, but it definitely wasn't me. I have never been to any of the Western Province resorts.

See Ozziegiraffe's update on the Solomon Express & Pelican Express schedules. These boats are well run by Pacific standards but (unfortunately or fortunately depending on your world view) they don't have websites that make looking the schedules up so easy. These are very cheap fares and the boats are pretty reliable in good weather. You can check some of the Solomon Airlines fares online for a comparison. The airline is also mighty unreliable whereas the express boats tend to leave on the dot.

Auki has the most regular shipping because it is very close to Honiara and it serves a large population. Sorry but I've forgotten how often the regular services run. There are lots of other boats to Auki so, yes, you could just go down to Point Cruz and ask around. Bear in mind that the non-express boats might not leave at the time that they say!!! All of the rounded, timber ships are from Malaita (you will spot hem immediately) so approach them if you feel like travelling less formally.

Boats travelling west are less regular. Usually anything going to Gizo will travel through part of the Marovo lagoon and so you can get off at Billy/Gatokae or Seghe.

The boats I think Laszlo is referring to are the provincial ships (mixed passenger/cargo as he says is correct). These are an interesting way to travel but very slow. They are bigger than the express boats but, yes, they get very crowded. I think for the long trip from Honaira to Gizo, the express is long enough and 3 days on Tomoko or Temotu is only for the hardy traveller. Realistically, in the almost open ocean, why spend days when there's not a whole lot to see? I'd avoid Compass Rose (you only need to see it to understand...).

I "ditto" all the previous comments about diet. Solomon Islands has a high prevalence of diabetes precisely because people DON'T eat enough carbohydrate buffers. Its rice, rice, rice nowadays. The bulk store (off the side road leading into the central market) might sell navy beans or similar. Otherwise try the expat supermarket in Panatina Plaza - its clean and the prices aren't so bad if you're only buying specific items.

To travel from Honiara to Auki, the slow boats travel on Monday and Friday nights, returning Tuesday and Saturday mornings. There is no sense to me in the fact that there are usually at least 2 each night – it would be much better to have them on 4 different nights. They did start leaving later for a while, but while I was there, they were back to leaving Honiara at 6pm, arriving Auki at between 12 midnight and 2 am. Fares are around $100 each way.
The two “Express” boats go there Tuesday and Friday mornings, returning (I think), Wednesday morning and Friday afternoon. Fares are dearer than the slow boats, first class is $250 one way, I am not sure of second. There is one other slow boat, Sa’alia, which travels Honiara to Auki some time Wednesday, and Honiara to Auki sometime Sunday. A couple of other Langa Langa boats have unscheduled trips. (Tha Langa Langa boatsa are the blue wooden ones).
When I last travelled to Malaita, we had to wait from Friday to Tuesday to get a boat to Auki - and we checked the wharf every day.
I haven't tried the Langa Langa homestays, but from what I can gather, they are more commercial (ie set up for tourists) than the Lau one.

Thanks so much for everyone that responded. You are all amazing!

Lazlo: Thanks so much for the photos of the boat (very informative!) and link to the Lau homestay. And thanks for making my mouth water with the description of veges in coconut milk!

Spakatumas: Thanks very much for your suggestions on how to spend time in Honiara, if we end up there for a couple of days. And thanks for the suggestion of where we might find beans or other vege protein sources.

MissKiri: Thanks for sharing your vege story, I definitely know the feeling! :-)! And thanks for the suggestion of soy/ chili in my bag. If you are up to it after your trip to Lau, I would love your feedback.

Ozziegiraffe: I'm so sorry to mix up your post with someone else's! Thanks very much for taking the time to give us such a specific boat schedule and pricing structure. And thanks for your feelings on Langa Langa possibly being more commercial than Lau.

We are so excited about this trip. My husband got laid off on Friday, but we are still going for it! All of your care and detail in your answers made it such a pleasure asking for your help. Best of luck to you all. If anyone ever needs advice on Latin America, I have traveled extensively there and would love to help. Happy travels!

It occurred to me later, that if you asked a Solomon Islander for beans, you would either get long beans (green beans up to half a metre long) or snake beans (more closely related to squashes or pumpkins) - long, greenish and about an inch in diameter.