Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Getting to Ugi?

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Solomon Islands

My husband taught for a year at All Hallows School at Pawa on Ugi as a VSA volunteer in 1968. He is keen to go back for a visit - we don't know if the school still exists or how easy it is to get there. We have contacted the Melanesian Mission, but as yet no reply.

We are planning to come possibly early August, flying from Auckland to Port Vila, staying a few days there and then on to Honiara. From there we could fly to Kirakira, but have no idea of how we can find out about getting across to Ugi. Also, once we get there, is there a chance we may have to stay longer than anticipated due to bad weather, lack of boats etc? It is hardly a tourist destination so how could we find out about accommodation?

We would also like to spend some time around Gizo or Morovo Lagoon after we have been to Ugi. It doesn't seem a good idea to book internal flights, as from what I have read, they can be very unreliable. There doesn't seem much point booking if we may be stuck on Ugi. Can you just turn up and hope to get a flight on the day? Also makes it hard to book accommodation ahead. I have read that it is a good idea to take your own lifejacket if travelling by ferry, is that really necessary? (I assume that doesn't include Pelican & Solomon Express).

We would appreciate any information or advice anyone can offer. If we do go, we want to make sure it will work as it will be a rather expensive trip, but well worth it if we can get it all together.

There are two or 3 flights a week from Honiara to Kira Kira. There are at least 2 rest houses, one run by the Anglican Church of Melanesia (it has shared cooking facilities) and another privately run, which also provides cooked meals. (I think there may be a 3rd, built since I was last there). Ships from Honiara run about weekly, but are not exactly first class, and are unreliable. You will need to book in advance for Kira Kira flights in particular, as they fill up quickly.
Pawa is no longer run by the Mission (which has been the locally run Church of the Province of Melanesia for more than 30 years), but its sister school on the mainland, Pamua, is still a church school, now with both male and female students. Pawa is a secondary school run by Makira/Ulawa Province. Probably the easiest way to get to Ugi would be to fly to Kira Kira, then enquire locally about hiring a boat to get to Ugi, and accommodation there. (Kira Kira is very small, this should not be difficult). You could ask at the Church of Melanesia offices in Honiara before you go, (phone 677 21892, PO Box 19 Honiara), or the church (Diocese of Hanuato'o, PO Box 20 Kira Kira, +677 50183) or provincial office(c/- Post office Kira Kira, (677)50076, 50022, Fax 50023) in Kira Kira. You will need to contact Hanuato'o Diocese to book accommodation in the church rest house.
There is definitely a risk of getting delayed, although Ugi is not a really long boat trip from Kira Kira, but a boat would need to be available. The planes from Kira Kira also get delayed, or overbooked (if you have an onward flight booked, you are less likely to get bumped from the flight). You will need at least a week in Makira to be on the safe side, but allow another 3 days in Honiara before booking an onward flight to Gizo or Munda.
As a former teacher, you will be treated with great repsect. However, you will get more help from the church in Honiara than the Melanesian Mission, which these days is merely a fundraising and support body.
My recommendation would be to stay in Honiara at either Chester Rest House (run by the Melanesian Brothers) or St Agnes transit (run by the Mothers Union) both of which will help you with getting to Pawa.
Also, look at Visit Solomons the official Solomons tourism website, for more information.
Feel free to contact me on the forum, or by PM (personal message) with any other questions.

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Hi, hope you have a great trip back to Solomons. Advice from Ozziegiraffe is good. Planes and boats are erratic but people will be as helpful as possible. The Church of Melanesia took over from the Melanesian Mission in 1975 and the Melanesia Mission only exists now in the UK where it offers support through money and enables the excahnge of church workers in both directions.The Melanesian Mission's (UK) contact is mission@talktalk.net
I'm sure they would be interested to hear your story.
Chetser Rest House has recently had a major upgrade and the new rooms are nice. Their email is mbhches@solomon.com.sb
Responses are not always forthcoming to emails but it is another possible way to make contact.
There is a Transit House at Kira Kira which was basic but fine a few years ago when I stayed there. There are more flights to Mkira than there used to be but some of them use Mkira as a stopping point to/from Lata (Santa Cruz) - which means that you are usually ok going out but there is more chance of being offloaded trying to get back to Honiara - especially if the hospital in Lata needs to send a patient or two to the Central Hospital all of a sudden.
Remember also that luggage allowance can be limited on some of these small flights.
I wouldn't worry about a life jacket on the ferries or large boats but for long journeys by 'outbaord canoe' they are not a bad idea. If you are just coast hopping you will be fine without one.

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On one trip back from Kira Kira, a number of people were off-loaded (bumped). We were already a day or two late, and the plane came in a couple of hours late. One of our fellow passengers was the wife of the former archbishop. However, another passenger was a former student of mine, now married to an Australian and resident in Sydney. He was working on environmentally sound development for his home island. He was due to fly out that day to Australia, and because of the delay would have missed his connection.
As both domestic and international flights were with Solomon Airlines, the pilot radioed Henderson field in Honiara, and got them to hold the International flight until the passenger arrived.
Typical of travel Solomon style.

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Hi Alex,
I have sent you some more specific information by email. I suspect you found Solomon Islands much better in 2011 than in 2002, in the middle of the ethnic problems.
Pawa and Pamua still both exist as secondary boarding schools. I have been to Pamua several times, but so far, not Pawa.

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