Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Itinerary advice please

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Solomon Islands

I am planning to spend 4-5 weeks in November and early December in the Solomons.

My daily budget will be $50 US to cover hostel accommodation and food. I don't eat much! I have a separate transport budget of $500 for travel between and within islands.

I want to experience as much as possible within these limits.

My main interests are culture and history. I also love snorkelling and the beach.

Can you help me choose which islands to visit, and suggest a route that will maximize my time and budget?

Thankyou in advance,

Hilary.

Hi, Florida islands is the perfect place to visit. It is close to Honiara beautiful beaches for snorkelling etc etc, it is the ideal get away and prices are reasonable. contact me if you would like a tentative itinerary and estimated costs. West if good but the airfares etc is the killer...

1

You have chosen a busy time to tr to travel cheaply around Solomon Islands. In late November, and through December, the local ferries are full of school students returning home for summer holidays, and many village rest houses are used by visiting family members.
Also, there are no backpacker hostels (except one so-called in Honiara) in Solomon Islands. Budget travellers generally stay in village rest houses, or transit houses. Some of these, depending on how isolated, have very limited facilities.
With 4-5 weeks, the Florida islands (Gela) would not fill your time. One recommended place to stay in Tulagi (the pre-world-war II capital) is the Mothers Union rest house, which has twin rooms, shared bathrooms and kitchen, and a great view from the verandah.
I would suggest you also travel to Malaita, where there are fascinating traditional cultures, including artificial islands.
One or two of the boats from Honiara sometimes pick up passengers in Gela (generally Boromole village in the mouth of the passage between Big and Small Gela) or sometimes near Taroaniara.
Otherwise, return to Honiara, and book a seat on Discovery 360 (best to do this in advance in December, as it books out quickly).
Recommended accommodation for the budget-minded in Honiara is the old wing of Chester House (which also has a shared kitchen and bathroom).
The site in my sig line has lots of ideas for the adventurous, budget-minded traveller.

2

If you are looking for a cultural experience a bit off the beaten path then i would recommend Rennel island because it is untouched by tourism. If you stay at Lake Tegano in a village home stay then your $50US will be much more than you need on a daily basis, however getting there might take up you whole travel budget. The lake is beautiful and the people that live in the villages along it shore are so friendly. They have such a tranquil environment and all know that they live in an abundant paradise.
If you enjoy snorkelling then there a war planes in the lake that are an interesting snorkelling trip or it is an hours walk to the ocean for some of the most beautiful untouched coral reefs i have ever seen. The local village fisherman makes to trip to the ocean 3 times a week where he spear fishes day and night and comes back with his catch. We even spent a night camped on the beach witch was a lovely memorable experience.
I have a friend from a village at the lake who has a website http://tegano-lake.com/ . He orgainsed our trip for us and he is happy to help other travellers interested in visiting. We had such an amazing time here and it is well worth a visit.

3

The only comments I would make about the Rennell suggestion are that, like Gela (Florida) you would not want to spend the whole 5 weeks there, and that the culture of Rennell is Polynesian, not like the Melanesian culture of the majority of Solomon Islands. It would be a pity not to spend at least part of your time with Melanesian cultural groups (including Malaita, Guadalcanal and Gela).
If you decide to go there, plan to go at the beginning of your stay, as transport options are much less frequent or reliable than Malaita or Gela. Otherwise you could risk missing your plane home.
I should add that it is pretty much impossible to have a fixed itinerary in Solomon Islands, especially if you are a budget traveller. Internal transport does not usually run to timetables (except planes, which should, but often get cancelled or bogged, due to the state of the airstrips).
Transport between most islands outside Guadalcanal generally requires returning to Honiara.

4

Bit late on this one, but I'd highly recommend Nugu (near Maravagi, in the Floridas) as a cool little place to stay for a few days. Its low-key, only 1.5 hrs boat ride from Honiara (weather permitting) and relatively cheap. Good for snorkeling, diving (if you bring your own gear/tanks from Honiara), and generally chilling out. The local guys who run the place are super friendly too. Its a bit of a well-kept secret for local expats (not anymore, I guess).

With only $500 travel budget, you're not going to get too far in the Solomons. Luckily there's plenty to do around Honiara if you ask around (walks, waterfalls, snorkeling, diving, cultural stuff, home/village stays etc). The best stuff (IMHO) is out in western province, but from memory return airfares would exceed your budget.

Also your accommodation budget won't go too far either. Your best bet is to try and meet some of the expats and see if there's someone who's willing to put you up or find a house-sit (it happens, but you need to ask around - try starting at the Lime Lounge in Honiara).

5

A true adventure tour to rennell island would take only 3 to 4 days from Honiara.
You only need some fitness with no underlying health problems.
Rennell world heritage site tours offer reasonable rates plus low impact activities.
Our tours are designed to give you a 40km road tours(4WD), short (1hr)coastal boat ride (see the highest atoll on earth), bush trekking (see some endemic birds),lake tour,and see our culture. It is like seeing 3 different worlds in one tour.
email: tour_rennell@solomon.com.sb
In Honiara : Kitano Mendana Hotel and Heritage Park Hotel are good

6

In Honiara : Kitano Mendana Hotel and Heritage Park Hotel are good
But way over the OP's $50 US a day budget.

7

Thankyou all for your replies and your continuing interest in my dilemma!
I now have my longhaul ticket leaving Vancouver on November 3. I have a 4 week stopover in Fiji and on December 4 continue on to New Zealand for 4 months.

So I have to choose between spending those 4 weeks in the Savu Savu and Taveuni areas of Fiji that I haven't visited before, or taking a roundtrip flight to the Solomons where I have always dreamed of going.

It seems within the confines of my budget that I would have to restrict travelling around to Honiara, Malaita and nearby islands. Culturally, I believe this would be really satisfying, but I would appreciate some beach time too.
But where?

All and any thoughts most welcome!

8

Not much swimming near Honiara, unless you have transportation to Boneggi or Boneggi II beaches (a fee applies). Then there's the Tambea Resort further out; I spent a couple of days there in 1990, however at that time it was on the skids. It's under new ownership now and is probably spiffy and costly, have no idea. Honiarahomestay or Ozziegiraffe might know.

9

As far as I know, Tambea never re-opened after the tension. It was actually quite good in the 90s.
Gela, and particularly Maravagi, is a possibility for beach time, but be careful any quote for Maravagi includes both food and transport, as these can put the cost up.
The artificial islands in Malaita allow for swimming and snorkelling around them, but they don't have either white sand or places where you can swim in western-style swimmers - a lava-lava (sarong) at least is required to respect kustom.
Maalu'u in the far north of Malaita has sandy beaches in the area.
It is also possible with the Pacific Arts Festival just over, that somewhere has opened in the Doma area of Guadalcanal.

10

as already identified, your budget wont get you far in the Solomons...just got back from a few weeks there and was surprised how 'expensive' it is, especially where boat transfers are involved (most places)....Maravagi cost $100 Australian return boat transfer, $35 OZ per night for a bungalow, and approx $50 OZ per day for the 3 meals...if you then pay bill in Solomon $$ you lose out even more as the exchange rate he gives you is 10% less than Honiara.
Apparently it's quite good snorkelling there, but they dont have any gear so take your own (I didn't)....and some small beaches. Nugu sounds cheaper for staying there, but the boat transfers for there were more expensive (unless you find others to share the ride).
Langa Langa Lagoon on Malaita does have some small beaches you can canoe to...I stayed at Serahs Hideaway and it costs 300 SBD per day for a bed and 300 SBD per day for meals (300 SBD = $43 OZ) plus 600 SBD boat transfer each way (cheaper if they have others to drop off/pick up) from Auki. The MV boat from Honiara then costs 450 SBD return to Auki.
Then there is the costs for 'cultural activities' eg. shell money making, or pan pipe group, at Serahs at 300SBD each.
All the costs add up...if you are keen mainly for beach time you might be better off stopping in Fiji...??

11

My daughter and I are currently planning a trip to Solomon Islands in October this year. We have booked plane tickets from Australia to Honiara, and have booked four nights accommodation at Tetepare Eco Lodge. We will have one brief night in Honiara on the way over and will then have 4 nights spare. Are there any tourist destinations we could visit on the way to or from Tetepare to give us another experience in the Solomons. It seems at this stage we will already be spending considerable time travelling so thought there may be a place on the way back to Honiara that wouldn't necessarily take extra time. Any thoughts at all would be appreciated. I can see already people on this forum have some valuable ideas but I cant seem to put the places together in my mind. Cheers, Julia from Australia

12

Julia...you could do a couple day trip over to Savo Island which is a short & cheapish boat trip from Honiara....I didn't make it there, but there are walks to a couple 'volcanoes', boat trip to watch dolphins (apparently) and other activities.
Or if you are going to Western Province for Tetepare maybe better off visiting other areas in that province...maybe Marovo lagoon....depends a bit on what your interests are....environment/culture/diving..???
Western Provnice seems to be the main 'tourist' destination, or the most accommodation anyway.
Kolombangara is another island in thst province that has couple days trek up a volcano, witha lodge half way up.
Maybe the locals/expats will have better suggestions for you...??

13

There really isn't anywhere else you can go en route from Western Province to Honiara, as transport to each of the Provinces originates in Honiara. However, from Honiara you have the option of 3 closer islands with reasonable transport - Savo and Gela usually by open outboard boat, Malaita on the larger 360 Discovery, or by plane.
Consider Serah's in the Langa Langa Lagoon near Auki, Malaita, or Maravagi on one of the smaller Gela (or Florida) islands.

14

Ozzie...the airport at Auki is closed so only the MV boat to Malaita currently....and allow travel each way only really leaves you 2 days there..
If Julia is going to Western Province for Tetepare, assumedly via Munda, would she be better off visiting other places in that area...???
Maravagi is good for snorkling but take your own gear as they dont have any...Serahs does have a few sets, the coral there is not as good but still penty of fish and you can watch them right off your bungalow veranda.

15

How recently were you there? The Auki airport was ready to reopen a couple of weeks ago.
Culturally, Malaita and Gela are very different to the West, which has been more influenced by Europeans.

16

last week....and irt sounded like the airport had been cosed for quite some time..?? (and still was)

17

I know the airport has been closed for a while. Te government was in negotiations befre the Festival of Arts to get it reopened.
I am currently communicating with friends in Honiara and Malaita, organising a trip for several people, but as I was planning on travelling to Auki by ship, I hadn't asked the airport question.

18

yeah...the boat is only 3-4 hours anyway so not that much need for the plane (unless the waves are really big...I watched a bunch of people clutching the back rail for most of the way on my trip over the Auki....sorta amusing but I did pity em..)

19

My first trip back from Auki was on an old wooden tub fondly nick-named the "African Queen". absolutely overpacked with children and their parents returning to Honiara for school and work after the Christmas holidays. There was a cyclone in the area. I think I was the only person who didn't get sick.

20

You can go to Honiara which is amid the best Islands in Solomon. While visiting Solomon Islands Honiara, you can opt to stay at King Solomon Hotel which ensures to suit everybody's budget. Staying here will be pleasure as you can indulge in other water activities like dive Solomon Islands and snorkeling.

21

LOL @ #20 ... I was seasick on Ramos (back in 1994) ... I had just been 'released' from No. 9 so wasn't really up to par, so to speak. A very kind passenger ripped a seat from it's bolted position and brought it over to me so I could sit while being sick - I think some of the passengers thought I was about to hurl myself overboard along with the contents of my stomach.

22

I was sick for the 24 hour journey from Auki to Ontong Java, on Southern Cross, once we left the sheltered waters along the coast of Malaita. Something about the direction of the sea and the stabilisers.
I was so sick, I couldn't even sit up without throwing up. I had to lie on deck.
I blame it on eating pineapple soon after embarking. Will never eat pineapple while travelling by sea again.

23

A ferry trip to Ontong Java and Lata are now off my list, I tend to get very queasy in open water, so will have to rely on a plane ride, which makes Ontong Java unreachable (for me). Pity, I've always wanted to go there. That must have been an awful crossing for you, I found the short crossing to Auki bad enough - on that occasion, I was okay on other crossings.

24

And I don't normally get seasick!
There is an airstrip in Ontong Java now, just no flights as far as I know.
Did I ever tell you about my outboard trip back to Lata from the Reef Islands?

25

No, you didn't. I'm all ears (or eyes in this case :-))

26

Quick update. Returned from 16 days in Solomon Islands on Sunday night. As I am going to hospital for a knee replacement tomorrow, I will not be able to post much until after I recover.
The West Guadalcanal road is sealed now as far as Tambea - I could actually sit on 100kph without worry!
There are several beaches (pebbly sand) along the part of this road nearer to town where you can go and swim (and probably pay the landowners a small fee).
Tambea (alas) is no more.
We visited Auki and the village of Fiu on Malaita. Stayed at Rarasu Motel - great rooms, but some problems with the reliability of the separately-owned restaurant. We travelled on 360 Discovery. Several other cheaper ships do the Auki Honiara run weekly, and the planes are running again. My companions got sick between Boromole and Auki on the way over, as the sea was running sideways. Several days a week, Discovery now stops at Tulagi, and Taroaniara as well as Boromole in Gela, en route to Auki. It leaves Honiara daily at 8am, and Auki daily at 2pm.
The old Sydney ferry (Lady Wakehurst) is doing fortnightly runs to North Malaita - a big improvement on LC Dragon.
We also stayed a night at Sunset Lodge on Savo, where my friends climbed the volcano and saw the megapods. Transport is provided from Honiara to Vila village, near Visale, then boat from there (about 40 minutes. All up cost (inclusind 3 meals about $900 SBD per person. Big drawback for me was the long concrete staircase to the sleeping lodge, followed by another internal staircase. The concrete stairs are of varying heights, and some slope, and there is no handrail.

27

Welcome back and (big sigh) I'm so envious! A sealed road all the way to Tambea? Wow!! Pity Tambea is no more, I have very fond memories of that place even as it was going to seed and none too safe at the time I was there. Sounds like there is a lot more in the way of transportation now, which is great to hear. I saw the megapodes on Savo but only went on a day trip from Tambea; another guest and I hired a canoe to get us there and back, visited two villages and the megapode nesting area. Really cheap at the time as well; didn't know there was a lodge on the island, but maybe there wasn't at the time.

Good luck with the knee surgery!!!

28

There wasn't one in the 90s. We stayed in a village then. Sunset Lodge belongs to Speaker of Parliament and former PM Sir Allan Kemakeza.

29

Must have closed soon after I stayed there in 1990. The 'resort' also had a pig farm, wonder if that's still operating.

I met Sir Allen in 2002 when I went to the PMC to report on a load of guns on Bellona that couldn't be returned before the amnesty ended - no-one could afford to get to Honiara and back so they asked me to deliver the message to PMC in Honiara. The staff wanted me to talk to Sir Allen, not a clerk, so he was summoned. Nice man, regardless of whatever ... They also found guns on Rennel; I read this in the paper a week or so later, thank heavens they didn't mention my name!

30