Solomon Islands - a number of questions gathered together...

Hello, Everyone.

On 23 August I am leaving again from Warsaw to London, from London to Kuala Lumpur, from Kuala Lumpur to Brisbane and finally from Brisbane to Honiara to see my beloved/hated Solomon Islands again. This time, though - if the funds allow, alas! - I am planning to stay not four weeks, as I did in 2008, but four months, and this is due to some research work I am doing. And it is in connection with that long-awited stay (I am taking an unpaid leave to go there) that I have the following questions, all of them probably (or certainly) discussed already at one point or another on this Forum, but I'd like to keep it all in one place. I am especially directing the questions to our Solomon Islands "specialists": Ozziegiraffe, Watsoff and Laszlo, but obviously anyone who has any knowledge on the topic(s) or can help in any way is also welcome and gratefully requested to respond. ;-)

1. Visa extension.
   It is my understanding that normally visa is granted at the airport for the period of 90 days/3 months without any problem, provided one has sufficient funds (more about it - later) and an onward ticket for a trip back home (or wherever else). Since my research (should my funds last me - hopefully!) is planned to take four months, I obviously need to make an extension. The questions in this regard are:

Is it feasible to prepare and send a letter or another document outlining the kind of research as a proof and reason for an extension? I've heard that I order to perform ANY kind of research one needs to have a permit not just from the Immigration, but from the Ministry of Education as well, is that true? If it is advisable to have such a letter, is it better to send a copy/scan of it in advance to appropriate Governmental institutions in advance of a visit, or is it more feasible to produce such a letter once in Honiara? And if the latter, shall I produce it immediately upon arrival telling the customs/border officials that I am going to extend, or is it better to wait until the three month period is almost over and then to apply for an extension? How easy it is to obtain the extension? In our previous correspondence of some months back, Watsoff says [quote]:

"I normally get a 3-month visa when I land at the airport then extend it to 4 months at Immigration downtown. Since 2000 I've not really had to have a reason for staying on. It was even suggested at the airport that I stay longer but I couldn't, but then I was only there for a week.

In 2002 I got the 3-month visa at the airport extended to 4-months, and they also said I could stay for up to 6 months if I wanted, almost no questions asked. I wanted to, but again I couldn't. Got the extension the same day I applied for it, which was a first." [unquote]

And Ozziegiraffe says [quote]: "I would agree with Watsoff - basically, you can get a visitor's visa for up to 3 months on entry, and apply to have it extended up to another 3 months in Honiara." [unquote]

From what you are saying it stems that it is actually pretty easy and straightforward to extend, is that really so? What arguments have you used/been using when extending your visas?

1. Accommodation (cheap but reliable) outside of Honiara.
   Again, in previous correspondence on another thread Ozziegiraffe mentioned St Agnes and Chester Rest House as two probably most reliable of budget accommodations in Honiara. Can you recommend something in a similar price bracket in other places in Guadalcanal, and also in Auki and Kirakira? Any and all contacts would be greatly appreciated.

2. Budget
   According to my rough estimates the money that I am going to have during my stay will approximately be USD 10,000 for a four month period, give or take a thousand or two. Do you think that kind of money is feasible, considering - most likely - having to pay for porters and guides quite frequently, for pigs for a village feast (sometimes) etc.? How to make oneself resistant to an incessant asking for money by most (though not all) of Solomon Islanders? Also, since - other than Honiara, and especially in the bush - travellers' cheques and/or credit cards are useless, will I have to carry the whole amount in hard cash? Even in USD it's quite a large wad of money, and in SBD it must weigh a ton and be very bulky! How do you cope with thatt?

3. Climate.
   I am arriving in Honiara on 26 August, and I am leaving on 22 December. That means that I will, most likely, spend at least some part of my stay in the monsoon weather. How rough are the seas? How rough is rough anyway? What can I expect, like rains showers pouring for 72 hours? Again, any information, and particularly concerning Guadalcanal, Malaita and Makira in this respect, would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance for your kind responses and - perhaps - see you in the Solomons?

Best regards

Wojtek

I'd think the budget should be OK, but depends on how often you actually need to hire guides/porters and how many of them.
Making yourself resistant to asking for money in the Solomons - good luck! It was certainly the most materialistic Melanesian country in my experience. I guess social skills help in general, it also varied from area to area, so maybe the best way is to simply stay longer in those areas where you find the people more welcoming? In some areas they demand crazy amounts and are unwilling to negotiate, I'd just make a graceful departure from those.
Carrying the money - well I guess you can change at least US cash in a few major centers outside Honiara so that could reduce the amount of bills you need to carry. Maybe open a local bank account if worried? Whatever you need to actually carry eventually, carry on your body at all times I'd say, as the Sols was the only country outside Samoa I experienced theft in in the Pacific (and met enough crooks to imagine it could happen again).
In my experience, it is useless to worry about future weather in tropical island countries. 72 hours nonstop rains are unusual anywhere, and life must go on year-round. I doubt transport will stop for an entire "rainy season", and of course there are still flights as back-up options for major places and to cover longer distances that could be affected by rough seas.

There is an ATM at the ANZ bank in Auki, so the only place you will need to carry all your money to is Kira Kira, of the 3 islands you mention.
Accommodation - on Guadalcanal outside Honiara, you will be relying on village Rest Houses , unless you are travelling to the western end, where you may be able to stay at the Melanesian Brothers guest house at Tabalia. (The Brothers run Chester House, so you can enquire there).
Auki has several motels - the newest one, a couple of hundred yards to the right of the wharf, where you book tickets for the 360 Discovery, is probably the nicest. (40454 or 40333, rarasumotel@solomon.com.sb)
Kira Kira has a Rest House run by the Church of Melanesia (phone Diocesan office, 50183), which is quite reasonable (it has a communal kitchen), and another called Fresh Wind, where they cook great meals.
You will probably only meet rough seas if there is a cyclone in the area, and these are rare. It will be a bit rougher travelling to Kira Kira (I have always flown when going there.)
As far as the Visa is concerned, check with the immigration officer when you arrive, and they might even let you stay until the date of your departure ticket. otherwise see immigration in Honiara, but allow at least a couple of weeks before your 3 months are up, as they are very slow. (I have never needed to do this as my only stays over 3 months have been on working Visas)

This just for the "Budget" side of advice. Don't bloody carry the whole thing with you. The safest and my recommendation is at least have SBD2000 in cash with you, and try seperate the amount in different pockets. Try and email to ANZ Bank or Bank South Pacific (both have a website) and ask for advice about transferring amount from where ever your money is coming from to the Solomon Islands. Preferrably ANZ bank, as they run rural banking out in the rural areas in Guadacanal. Besides transportation is cheap (should be) from rural Guadacanal to Honiara or Rural Malaita to Auki town. You want to try and find someone (a bit) trustworthy, go to the local village Sunday church service and see who the Pastor is, and get to know him. That's one way of finding someone to help you out in the local vicinity. If anything else comes up in my mind, I'll post it up later. Hope this helps.

Wow, I've hardly every been asked for money anywhere in Solomons. On the couple of occasions I was, it was for emergencies, not plain old begging. I agree, though that some try to up "custom" fees way out of proportion to whatever it is you want to see or visit, so it's up to you to either pay or walk away. And it's probably much worse these days, what with the RAMSI troops and the influx of expats in the country.

I'd recommend extending your visa as soon as possible, like when you land in the country. That way you won't have to hurry back to Honiara when your 3-month visa is about to expire. You could be stuck somewhere else and with the often "iffy" air and ferry service you might not be able to get back in time.

You ask: What arguments have you used/been using when extending your visas?

You're automatically given a month, or at least up to the depart date on your ticket if it's under one month, but a 3-month extension can and usually is given at the airport if you request it. The first time (1994) I wanted to extend my visa was at the time when they required a reason to do so, but that was to extend it to 4 months, I got the 3 months visa at the airport. I had a reason, a wedding invitation (I wasn't going to mention that the wedding was long past, I had been invited but I wasn't in the country at the time). That was suggested to me by a friend, quite high up in a government ministry, and he took my extension request and passport to immigration personally. But they didn't even ask, not sure if it was because of who handed the request over or if they really just weren't interested. It took a couple of weeks to get, though and the chap at immigration seemed somewhat suspicious.

The second time (2000) it was offered at the airport, but I couldn't stay. That was probably because it was just before the signing of the Peace Accord and a lone foreign visitor landing after most expats had evacuated blew them away.

The third time (2002) they decided themselves (at immigration downtown) that 3 or even 4 months wasn't long enough for me to try to find 'lost' friends in Lata, Isabel, Choiseul, Malaita and Bellona, so they quite happily gave me the 4 months then and there and suggested I go for the 6-month extension.

The other 3 times (1990, 1991, 1995) I didn't need extensions, just got whatever they handed out to coincide with my departure dates. Got to admit, in 1991 they were very suspicious as to why I was back in the country so soon after the 1990 visit.

I believe the roughest seas would be on the trip to Temotu Province; it was un-doable the last time I was there but I understand things have changed and ferries (or a ferry at least) are now running fairly regularly. December can be really hot and humid, but then I figure Sols only has two climates, hot and wet then hotter and wetter.

There's a slim (very slim) chance I might be able to get out there in December ... keep me posted as to where you might be at that time ... ?? Enjoy!

Edited by: Watsoff

Thanks million to all of you Good People!!!

Of course I forgot to ask one more question, i.e. about telecommunications, namely mobile phones and wireless USB modem Internet. Both my mobile phone and wireless USB Internet here in Poland are by an operator (perhaps known to some of you) called Orange. Is it simply enough to purchase appropriate SIM cards in Honiara (do they always come in the same dimensions?) and insert them into my mobile and my USB modem for them to function properly in Solomon islands, or does it get a bit more complicated than this?

I would appreciate your - no doubt great as usual - advice on this issues. Many, many thanks. best regards

Wojtek

Check your other post thread on telecommunication in Solomons, I've posted your answer there.

My two roughest boat trips were by ship to Ontong Java (a rare case of serious seasickness, due to the way the sea was running) and an outboard trip from the Reef islands to Lata. Both of these are considered "Outer Islands" and are outside your area of interest.
I once crossed from Auki to Honiara in an old wooden tub called the "Princess II" with a cyclone in the area, but it wasn't really that rough, as it is all in the more protected waters between the 2 island chains.