To anyone who has ever visited the Kwaio (and especially recently)

Is it normal for the chief(s) to demand 11000 (in words: eleven thousand) Solomon Dollars as an entry fee?

I got in touch in Honiara with one of the Kwaio chief co-ordinators who, in turn, got in touch with the Paramount Chief of the Kwaio. I told them what I wanted to do and what I wanted to see. I also told them that the MAXIMUM length of my stay at the Kwaio (East) would be 7-10 days.

To which I received a response that I am obviously very welcome and that the fee (including entry fee, money for the Paramount Chief, money to the chief co-ordinator, food etc.) would be eleven thousand SBD. Now, this is a lot by any means, and it is probably an average monthly salary in my country. It is also one-third of all my budget (I have 70 days more left in the Solomons).

Is this normal? If not, then why are they demanding such a huge amount from me (and there is NO room for any negotiations)? If yes, why are they using such abnormally high fees to prevent most people from coming there? Anyone has any explanation?

Many thanks

Best regards

Wojtek (from Auki)

I visited the Bush Kwaio ca 5 years ago and found them the unfriendliest and greediest people in the entire South Pacific.
I think they hate outsiders so much that they are better left alone, rather than made to endure your presence for a ridiculously high price. If you still insist on going, I guess they are entirely within their rights to demand as much money as they wish for enduring your otherwise unwelcome presence.

I would not be surprised at that fee from the bush Kwaio. Personally, I would rather go anywhere else in Malaita than Kwaio territory (and have visited numerous other areas.)

That's an outrageous fee demand! Guess I'm lucky to have E. Kwaio 'family' ... I found most Kwaio to be very friendly, but I'm sure that's probably because of my 'family' connections.

This attempt at gouging foreigners goes on all over the islands, but not to such an extent as in E. Kwaio (I've not heard of this, on this scale, happening in W. Kwaio, but then I have W. Kwaio friends as well, so maybe I'm just lucky).

I knew a foreign NGO who went up to W. Provinces to help a particular village that needed funding for a clean water supply. This NGO was prepared to give them the money, she just wanted to check the layout, etc., to see if any more help might be needed. The Big Men demanded such a huge landing fee (more than the cost of digging a well) that the NGO turned around and went back to Honiara. Needless to say, the village didn't get funding, not from that NGO anyway.

Perhaps it's an unfortunate side-effect of too many outsiders trying to get to traditional areas. Turns everything upside-down, especially in an area as hide-bound as E. Kwaio.

Friends of mine, while travelling with the Bishop, were not allowed to film video in Ontong Java unless they paid an exorbitant fee. Needless to say, they didn't film, and therefore didn't inform people in Australia who may have wanted to help the villagers.