Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Travel advice Western Province - accomodation, transfers, excursions, contacts

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Solomon Islands

I’ve been to Solomon Islands recently and I would like to share some information about my trip.

First of all some general comments about Western Province, a stunningly beautiful place, especially Marovo Laggo:
nature and marine life is world class
travelling in this remote part of the planet is very revarding, but not always easy due to lack to communication. Internet is almost inexistent, sometimes there is phone coverage, in few places they rely on radio, others are totaly cut off. The good things is that once you reached one homestay, people will be happy to help organize your onward travel (recomend places where to stay, make bookings, help with transport etc). I can especially recomend Benjamin from Matakuri Lodge, he is very well conented in the region:
Benjamin + Jili Kaniotoku, Matakuri Eco Lodge, Marovo Lagoon, Western Province, Solomon Islands, Tel.:+ 677-7467177

take plenty of cash from Honiara as there is no ATM (execpt Munda, and somtimes Seghe but don’t rely on that last one)
it is a very safe and friendly place
the main means of transport is boat, it can be expensive due to fuel prices, calculated by liter (in Feb 2016 it was from 14-17SBD/Liter)
to many villages and sites there is a 1 time costom fee

My itineray was 3 weeks (it could be done in 2). I mention the places where I stayed (manly homestays) and few others (lodges) I visited. In and around Munda and Seghe there are more choices. The prices mentioned here is what I remember paying.

  1. flight with Solomon airlines: Honiara to Munda
    ° accomodation: Agnes Lodge
    ° price: I stayed in the cheapest room (with bathroom), about 450SDB
    ° ecxursions: Agnes Lodge has a wide range of excursions, I particullarly recomend the trip to scull island and snorcheling
    ° other accomodation: Zipolo Lodge seems to be very nice, 20 min. away from Munda (800SBD/night)

  2. boat from Munda to Tetepare: Tetepare Island Ecolodge
    ° website: http://www.tetepare.org
    ° bookings: teteparebookings@gmail.com
    ° transport: boat from Munda to Tetepare: 1900SBD (per boat)
    ° price for accomodations, 3 meals and all land based activities: 500SBD
    ° conservation fee: 1x100SBD
    ° excursions: it’s a beautiful, uninhabited island with conservation work. You can take part in turtle tagging, watch leatherback turtles come back to the black sand beaches to lay their eggs, turtle hatchlings, coconut crab monotoring; excellent snorcheling, watch dolphins, bush walks with information on plants and many more activities

  3. Marovo Lagoon, Matakuri
    Benjamin + Jili Kaniotoku, Matakuri Eco Lodge, Marovo Lagoon, Western Province, Solomon Islands
    677-7467177
    no access on Internet, Benjamins sister can replay from Honiara
    Benjamin is extremly experienced and conected to Eco Lodges and he can help you with transfers and bookings. Benjamins whife Jili cooks great food

° transfers: boat from Tetepare to Matakuri (organized by Tetepare Eco Lodge, price per boat: 200SBD); 250SBD from Seghe airport
° accomodation price: 285 per night in leaf bungalow s/d, tripple: 370SBD, 185 SBD for 3 meals
° excursions: a wide range of excursions availabe. I can especally recomend snorcheling in Babata Passage, Penguin Reef and swimming with Manta Rays near Uepi Island;
° Kayaking tour, from 2 days to 1 week (with stops in Villages and overnight in Lodges and Village Stays - itinerary: Matakuri to Bareho Village, Bareho to Seghe B&B, Sealodge, Buinitusu Village, Kopikorapa Lodge, Lombi Mulaka and back to Matakuri
° transport: there is an airport in Seghe (about 20 min by boat away from Matakuri) which conects Seghe to Honiara.
public ferries:
A) Honiara to Marovo leaves Sat 9pm MV Angenette, reaches Seghe 12 midday Sun and continues to Munda and Gizo; leaves Seghe Mon 8pm direction Honiara
B) MV Fair Glory, leaves Honiara Sunday 9am, reaches Seghe 12 mindnight Sunday night
leaves Seghe 4pm Tuesday direction Honiara
° other accomodation in western Marovo Lagoon: Uepi Island resort, Kahaini Island, Chea Village Homestay
° money: there is no real ATM, but you can get a cash advance on your card in these to shops ins Seghe: Chacha Shop (only VISA), Berina Shop (VISA and MASTERCARD) - the amount you can retrive depends on how much money they have in the shop (sometimes less than 1000SBD)

  1. Gatokai - Sobiro Village (sometimes spelled Sombiro)
    ° transfer: public ferry from Seghe to Bunikalo (Gatokae), leaves Seghe Tue 4pm, pice 1 way 198 SBD; from Bunikalo 10 Min. by Boat (Mike Charly will pick you up); the ferry in direction Seghe - Munda - Gizo leaves Bunikalo on Sundays 7am
    ° accomodation: Sobiro Village Guest House run by lovely Olga (c/Batuna Postal Agency, Marovo Lagoon, Gatokae Island, Western Province, Solomon Islands). You can reach her best by radio (the Honiara Tourism office can make a booking for you, or Benjamin from Matakuri Lodge can arange your stay); Olgas Mobile: 7630320 or 7478283 - you send a text (calling won’t work)
    ° accomodation price: 220SBD inculuding 3 very delicious meals
    ° excurions: bushwalks, I particullarly recomend the one to Grassy Lands
    for transfers and excursions contact: Mike Charlie (Olgas husband): 7630320 or 7478283

  2. Gatokae - Peava Village and Mbiche Village
    I did not stay in either village, I visited them on my way to Zaira (Nr. 6)
    ° transfer: Mike Charly
    ° accomodation in Peava - Wade and Wendy, AirBnB „Lagoon Haus“, Solomon Islands - it is a beautiful house in the lovely Village of Paeva, you will be looked well after with food, excursions
    ° other accomodation: Wildernes Lodge
    ° accomodation in Mbiche Village: if you want to experience some authentic headhunting vibe, this is the perfect village, different prices to activities apply (for excample you will be greated by warriors, shown to shrines and their eals, walks in the forest and to an ancient fort)
    ° price for accomodation in Mbiche Guest House: 100 + 50 for each meal
    ° costom fee: 80SBD

  3. Vanganu: Zaira and Zuzule
    Zaira: a very beautiful Village, communication only by radio
    ° transfer: you can acssess both villages from Seghe/Matakuri (40/30 min) or like I did from Gatokae on my way back to Matakuri
    ° accomodation Zaira: Rony has a lovely homestay. Benjamin from Matakuri Lodge can help arrainging your visit
    ° price for accomodation in Zaira: 100 + 50 per meal
    ° costom fee: 100
    ° excursions: Ronny is an experenced guide who worked in different Lodges; you can hike, snorkel etc.
    ° Zuzule: a small settlement near a river in the middle of the forest - the hightlight of my trip
    ° comunication: no telephone or radio, contact Mike Charly for information how to arrange your stay
    ° transfers: I walked from Zaira (about 2 hours, in parts muddy and slippery), Mike Charly can arrange boat transfers; about 25 min. by boat from Matakuri
    ° accomodation: Zuzule Village Stay, Tavai Saga, South East Vangunu, Western Province, Solomon Islands - extremely friendly and wellcomming family, food was amazing
    ° price: As I have been the first foreign visitor I payed a simbolic price of 300SBD

For anyone who needs more advice let me know, I am happy to help.

Great post.

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Great post. I assume Tetepare-Matikuri was 2000 SBD, not 200? As it is very far

I'd like to add Tibara Lodge to this list - aside from Uepi it had the best snorkeling in the area at "Refugee island". Comparable to Raja Ampat. The owner Chief Luton takes very reasonable prices for trips, about 80 SBD for going to Refugee island or the local manta cleaning station, including fuel. In comparision Ben from Matikuri charges 250 SBD for the boat plus 100-400 SBD in fuel per trip (partially due to distances involved).

Tibara Lodge is more basic than Matikuri, it was dropped from the latest LP and does not get many visitors. It does not have a proper toilet, i.e. you have to use the village toilet or the ocean. The families living on the island are lovely.

Tibara Lodge is next to Bonikalo, phone numbers: 7319 456, 7751 225 , 7630 327. These are phone numbers of Luton's family members (he is near-deaf himself). Given the bad connectivity, try multiple times. Or just arrive in Bonikalo and find someone to drop you.

Some more updates
- I heard that the land ownership issues at Gatoka airport have been sorted out and the airport is supposed to reopen in a few weeks/months.
- Charapoana lodge has closed

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great post thank you!

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very helpfull! thnx

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Your information is so helpful as we try and arrange a trip in August. We can stay at Uepi for 4 nights but need two other nights before going there. We are looking at any place in the area and you give us some options, including Benjamin's help at Matakuri. Many thanks!

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Hi

You're welcome. Say hi from me to Benjamin and Jili!
Enjoy your trip to Solomons

Cheers
Ines

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Hi Juliet

I found the places along the way. It's not easy to get in touch with accomodation from the remote places as communication is difficult. I can remcomend Benjamin from Matakuri Lodge (contact details in my post). His place in Marovo Lagoon is beautiful and he can help with other accomodation/transfers as well.
Enjoy your holidays

Cheers
Ines

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Hello Ingreen
Your post has been fantastically useful!
Can I just as if you went in February and if so how was the Weather? did it rain most afternoons?
we are planning a trip to photograph and film in Solomon so it would be excellent to hear what the weather was like then.
Also did you find that you could hike freely out of Zaira?

Thank you for you excellent post!

Teo

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Hi Teo

Last february the weather was exceptionally dry and the sea very calm. Maybe this was due to the El Nino year as normally it could rain more often in Februar. It's difficult for me to give advise on the weather as it seems quite unpredictable.
First of all you need to hire a boat to get to Zaira. Locals will help you to find your way out of Zaira. If you want to do longer hikes I would not recomend to go alone, finding a guide is not difficult and won't be expensive. As I mentioned in my post Benjamin from Matakuri Lodge organized transfers and excursions for me.

Have fun!

Ines

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