Suggestions on itinerary please

Hi, my husband and I are planning a trip to French Polynesia next April. We are considering the following itinerary, but it is flexible and therefore open to suggestions as we are not sure which way round to do it. Would also welcome any recent feedback on hotels/pensions. By the way, is it better to have a garden bungalow or beach bungalow to minimise the mosquitoes?
Option One
Moorea - 4 nights at Les Tipaniers
Huahine - 4 nights Pension Mauarii or Relais Mehana
Bora Bora - 2 nights (should we stay 3) Novotel Bora Bora or Maitai Polynesia
Rangiroa - 2 nights Relais de Josephine
Papeete - 2 nights (should we stay 3) Royal Tahitian or Tiara Tahiti or ???

Option Two
Huahine - 4 nights
Bora Bora - 2 nights (should we stay 3)
Rangiroa - 2 nights
Moorea - 4 nights
Papeete - 2 nights (should we stay 3)

I'm for staying longer on an island. To me it's about experiences to be had (snorkeling, kayaking, walking and exploring) rather than sights to be seen.

What are your plans for Rangiroa? I ask because that was not my favorite island (litter everywhere and not very interesting) but the Blue Lagoon excursion was to one of the most beautiful places that I've ever been. The drift snorkel through the pass was very exciting. I had my eyes closed at that time but below us there was a hammerhead shark devouring another shark. You might want to consider Tikehau for your atoll experience. It really gives you an idea of being somewhere remote, it's very tidy and well groomed and barely any signs of tourism.

Your plans for Papeete? It's a small city. Will you be renting a car and driving around the island? Unless I had a specific reason (Heiva performances in July for instance) I would either stay on Tahiti Iti (where I haven't been) or add a day or days to the outer islands.

Since Moorea is spectacular I would end there rather than Rangiroa.

As for Bora Bora two things that I would not miss would be snorkeling behind the Sofitel Motu (it's across from both the Novotel and Maitai, I kayaked over there from the Maitai) and also spend a day on Motu Piti Au, that's the big motu where the Le Meridian is . A water taxi will take you there (I got mine from a place next to the Sofitel on the main island), to the southern part of it. Pack water, a picnic lunch and look back at the mountains of the main island and swim in the most gorgeous waters ever. The taxi is about 2000 xpf pp for a round trip, you tell them when you want to be picked up. You can explore, it's just incredible. Then, of course, you will want to spend sometime on Matira beach. Be sure to spend sometime in the water by the Intercontinental. Swimming in $1000 a night water is different (and better) especially if it is not your $1000.

When I travel to several islands in one trip, I always try to go to the farthest/most remote one first. I guess it's because there are usually less flights, so less options if something gets screwed up during the trip with weather, planes, overbooking, etc. the closer ones (Moorea in particular) are usually easier to get to, so leave those for the end.

I haven't been to Rangiroa, but it seems you might want to go to either one first and then the other, depends on how the Air Tahiti (domestic carrier) routes are.

The other thing is that though both are technically large if one includes the lagoon, there is not a lot to do there aside from the lagoon.

Huahine has some nice historical sites, etc.

I'd then end the outer islands in Moorea, as Silvano suggested.

Tahiti---yes, it depends on what you want to do. You'll need to be there most of the last day, probably, as most int'l flights leave at night. But unless you are going to do a bit of hiking, etc., or exploring a less-visited area like Tahiti-Iti (which is very good idea for a couple of days!)--you can fly in the day before your int'l flight departs, rent a car either that day or your last day, and head around the island, hit the Gauguin Museum, etc.

Again, there may not be flights to each island on the exact date you wnat to fly from another of the islands.

As to which unit to rent---if you ar staying at pensiones, your budget will probably only allow you to get the cheapest units at any mid-level resort, and these are the garden ones, furthest away from the water. In April it is still the wetter season, and humid. Bring insect repellent, as there may be mozzies, depending on how close you end up to th beach. Try to make sure the place you are renting has insect screens on your room, some budget places may not have them. And at the budget end you won't get air-con, so ask if they have a ceiling fan, it really does help vs. nothing.

I agree with Silvano, that's a lot of packing, unpacking, packing, etc, etc. You'll kind of waste a few days with all those inter-island flights. I'd skip either Huahine or Rangiroa, it depends on how much you want lagoons vs. a little more culture and history.

Have fun!

Silvanocat and Raro,

You have given us food for thought. We have opted for pensions, etc as we are not usually keen on manicured 4 or 5 hotels rather than the cost. We are not bothered about airconditioning and are used to ceiling fans from visits to other parts of the world. The point about screens is definitely one worth noting. We are also both French speakers, so were not concerned about needing English speaking hosts, but it may be that mosquitoes more stongly influence where we end up staying. Raro, I assume from your comments that it is better to be staying on the beach rather than in the garden.

A couple of our challenges have been the Air Tahiti timetable and the fact that we are unlikely to revisit, so the classic dilemma of what to include/leave out. Originally we did not include Rangiroa but someone advised us that we should see at least one atol.

Your comments have renewed further discussions! I think that we will be taking one island off the agenda - possibly Bora Bora as I want to see Huahine and my husband would like to go to an atoll.

We did something very similar last year - only we did not do an atoll but Raiatea instead. We had 3 nights on Tahiti (Relais Fenua about 20 minutes outside Papeete) but felt only 2 nights would have been enough. We had 3 nights on Bora Bora and would liked to have had another. Huahine and Bora Bora were our favorites but even with all the packing and unpacking we are glad we also saw Raiatea and Moorea as we might never get back that way. We stayed at the Novotel on Bora Bora and were very happy with our choice. I would also recommend Rande's on Huahine - not fancy but a lovely stand alone one bedroom house with great snorkeling just offshore and a short walk to Fare.

Uk----
I think Bora Bora is a must as you are "unlikely to revisit".
Here's why, in a short version:

Most SP islands start as mountainous volcanoes (after volvanic activity pushes them up from the ocean's floor to begin with). As they age they start to sink back into the earth's surface, the volcano eventually will become extinct, and then coral grows in the shallows. Eventually a narrow lagoon encircles the island, due to islets starting on the dead coral. After many many years the island will sink below the ocean's surface, and only the lagoon remains, enclosed by the coral islets. So, that's your coral atoll. So, in general, mountainous islands are young, atolls are old.

However, in a few cases in the South Pacific, when the main island/mountain started sinking, a huge chunk of it broke off (or quickly eroded), leaving a still large piece of the original mountain still above water---but also a large lagoon where half or more of the original mountain used to be. I call these "hybrid" islands. The original mountain, though fairly low, has good soil for crops, unlike an atoll which has only coral sand. And, it has a fairly huge lagoon as well, for great fishing. Not as large a lagoon as an atoll, but still all the pluses of an atoll lagoon.

"Hybrids" are probably the most beautiful of all islands. And there are only two easy-to-get-to "hybrid" islands in the South Pacific: Aitutaki in the Cooks Islands, and Bora Bora in French Polynesia!

If you look at aerial photos of either, you'll see what I mean! Bora Bora has usually been considered the most beautiful island in the South Pacific (with Aitutaki in the top five as well).

So, consider what you'll be missing if you skip Bora Bora. There are lots of atolls around the world, but not many hybrids.

Personally, of the four islands you mentioned, if I could only go to one in my lifetime, it would be Bora Bora. [Moorea second place]

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Mozzies:
As far as staying right on the beach vs a garden room: Yes, there are usually more mozzies near the garden rooms than those right on the beach. Mozzies like the vegetation of the garden areas, and mozzies HATE breezes.

In the South Pacific, most breezes come from the south and east. It's called the "Southeast Tradewinds". [It's partly due to the earth's rotation, etc.] So, stay on the east/south side of an island if you have a choice, esp. during the summer/hotter months (about Nov to April). You'll have less mozzies, in general.

But in addition to that, there is the "shore breeze" or "coastal breeze" which occurs in late afternoon due to the difference in temperatures between the lagoon/ocean and the land. So, right on the beach---just about any beach---you will still get more of a breeze than say 100m inland.

Most tourist accommodations are built on the coast, so mozzies are not as much as a problem as inland.

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Hope the above helps. Have fun!

I think option 2 is better but I would also cut out an island if I were you. I agree with Raro - DO NOT skip Bora Bora. We went to FP last year (BB, Huahine, Moorea and Tahiti) and BB was my favourite island. Ironically we stayed at 4 of the places you are contemplating staying at. BB is so breathtakingly beautiful, you will never forget it. The flights to Rangiroa are also infrequent compared to the other islands on your itinerary. If you really want to see an atoll, take Silvanocat's advice and go to Tikehau instead. I too have heard less than complimentary comments about Rangiroa.

We stayed at Les Tipaniers in Moorea. The mosquitoes there were an abomination. Worse than on any of the other islands.

In Huahine, we stayed at both Pension Mauarii and Relais Mahana. Both were very good but in different ways. Relais Mahana is great for families and for those looking for more structured accomodation. It is similar in some respects to Les Tipaniers but the staff are MUCH nicer at Relais Mahana and really go out of their way for their guests. For sheer ambiance though, you can't go past Pension Mauarii. We loved it. We stayed in a room that looked like it was in a tree house. When you dream of staying at a Pension in FP with a thatched roof, tropical flowers in your room, sea shells etc - that's exactly what you get at Pension Mauarii. The staff are lovely there too. The food at the restaurant was also excellent.

I would spend 3 nights in Bora Bora because you won't have much time to do much on your first day when you arrive and there are a great variety of activities to enjoy on BB. Apart from snorkelling so close to shore and wandering along Matira Beach; Silvanocat's suggestion of the motu is a great one. We did a motu picnic with Teremoana Tours (attached to Chez Nono) and we had a ball. A 4WD tour to the interior of the island where you go up to the WW2 cannons and have the most stunning views of the motus is another highlight. We didn't stay there but we visited the Maitai Polynesia and it looked lovely.

In Papeete we stayed at the Royal Tahitian and we loved it. It was gorgeous. This huge garden brimming with tropical plants and a stream running through it. The grounds are huge. The units are 60's style and the pool has this waterfall that flows into it. The location is good too. It is a bit out of Papeete in a residential area. The bus stop is just around the corner from the hotel and there is a carpark within easy walking distance that is full of roulottes/snack vans at night.

Well you are certainly creating a lot of discussion between my husband and myself. I think that you have convinced us about Bora Bora, so now it is about whether we still do Rangiroa, somewhere else or just keep to 4 islands. I have also read a really negative review about Relais de Josephine (bedbugs) on another site.

Raro thanks for the info on the mosquitoes - much as I love gardens, this might be the occasion to be beach focussed. I know in Europe you usually look for lemon trees to minimise the mozzies.

Tropicgirl - your feedback is great. However I am really concerned about Les Tipaniers. My husband got badly bitten on the legs when we were in Italy a couple of years ago, (hence our concerns about mosquitoes) so we might need to think of another hotel. Which month were you there? Do you know if it was just that part of the island? Where would you have stayed instead?

Were there screens in either Pension Mauarii or Relais Mahana? - I cannot tell from the website but suspect not as certainly the Pension is showing mosquito nets over the bed.

If a website shows mozzie nets over the bed, 99% of the time there are no insect screens on the windows.

We were there in mid-late August for 2 weeks and had very few encounters with mozzies. But the weather was unusually cool and windy so that might have helped. One thing to be aware of is the mosquitoes in the airport - it is an open air place and seems to attract them. I read about this on another forum and came prepared with repellent wipes as I could not take regular repellent on the flight. Most people are unprepared and often get a number of bites while waiting to go through customs and immigration.

Newfie43, Thanks for the tip about the airport. Will have to search out some repellent wipes, as have not come across those before.

Hi,

Sorry for the delay in replying.

We were there in January. I found them to be absolutely dreadful at Les Tipaniers. I don't know whether it was the vegetation that was attracting them or what but they were particularly bad there. I'm not sure if it was that part of the island but we did wander around a lot around the area where Les Tipaniers was located and the mozzies did not seem as bad as at the hotel. Other places to be careful of also are the Eden Parc in Huahine and a lookout that you stop at if you do a 4 wd tour of Huahine.

I would have stayed at Village Faimano instead and if/when we return to Moorea that's where we'll stay. We went wandering around Club Hali Hai (we even had breakfast there one morning) and that seemed quite lovely. They didn't seem to have the mozzie problem that Les Tipaniers had.

There were no mosquito screens at either Pension Mauarii or Relais Mahana but there was a large mosquito net over the bed at Pension Mauarii that kept us well protected.

As well as the wipes I would also recommend you pack in your luggage, a good insect repellant. I would highly recommend RID. It is HIGHLY effective. The next level up is Bushman's repellant but it is toxic in large quantities.

I meant Club Bali Hai not Club Hali Hai.

Thanks for all the tips from everyone. We have debated endlessly and think we are close to deciding, but are still discussing
1. hotels
2. when to go - late April or late September
3. which atol to go to

At the moment the plan is:
Huahine - 4 nights Still undecided between Pension Mauarii and Relais Mehana
Bora Bora - 3 nights - Likely to opt for the Novotel Bora Bora. We think that the road through the site at the Maitai will annoy us.
Rangiroa - 2 nights - Pension Bounty looks like a possibility - has anyone stayed there or should we go to a different atol?
Moorea - 4 nights - Village Faimano looks lovely, but the Bali Hai sound like fun without the mozzie probem of Les Tipaniers.
Papeete - 2 nights - Royal Tahitian. On balance we think we would prefer a quieter night and pay for the taxis into town.

Further views or comments welcome.

Road through Maitai really looked dreadful, as traffic is rather intensive!

I was at FP beginning of Septmebre - almost no rain, mostly sunny BUT windy, and therefore a bit too cool. As well because of strong wind, teh sea is pretty rough so swimming/snorekelling and even kayaking often just did not work out because of waves and strong currents.