Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

A Few Updates on the Niuas

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Tonga

Things have changed quite a bit up there since the minuscule info in the latest LP guide to Tonga and Samoa was written up.
The older LP guides contain much more info on these islands (and the rest of Tonga) and are worth taking along, though are obviously dated for practicalities.

General impressions

These are easily the most scenic islands in Tonga, and I found the sand along the beaches of western Niuatoputapu Tonga's finest and whitest. Niuafo'ou's volcanic scenry is spectacular, and I saw several of the endemic megapodes in a day. Both islands must qualify as the friendliest Polynesian islands I've been to - I was invited to homes to eat from the road, got kids sent running after me with coconuts to drink, offered rides by passing cars without even hitching.... no doubt as tourist numbers are quite low. A pastor in Niuatoputapu said they only get tourists coming in by public boats or flights once every 2-3 months or so, though yachties stop by in season, too. Niuafo'ou has no tempting anchorage for yachts and gets even fewer fly/boat-in visitors.
In short, these remain great islands to get off the beaten track in very scenic surroundings among very hospitable people!

A few photos - click on them to ernlarge.

Transport

Air services are now reliable enough, but horribly expensive, and still often heavily booked as they can apparently only take 6 passengers at a time. Flights are fortnightly, and I was told cost 550 TOP or so OW between Tongatapu and Niuatoputapu.

By sea, there are apparently just 2 boats serving the islands.
The more reliable Ajang Subuh visits both Niuafo'ou and Niuatoputapu once every 6 weeks, with fares being 190 TOP OW. It goes to the Niuas nonstop from Nuku 'alofa. The cheaper but very irregular Sitka seems to be the only other option, and it seems to go only to Niuatoputapu, but may stop in Vavau on the way.
Things may change when the Ajang Subuh returns to Malaysia in February - the Niuas will probably become a lot harder to reach by boat.

Accommodation

Niuatoputapu was badly hit by the "Samoan" tsunami, and along with most local homes, the Niuas' only formal accommodation was destroyed. While people are very hospitable and staying in a local home would not be difficult to arrange, carrying a tent could be a good idea especially for Niuatoputapu where many people now live in very small, hastily-built post-tsunami housing. Great camping spots would be near the beaches around western Niuatoputapu and on the narrow isthmus between the 2 biggest crater lakes on Niuafo'ou.

I miss my lovely Tonga so much.... :(

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and you miss your golf, Harry? :)

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