| hemis09:41 UTC12 Dec 2013 | Tonga Dec 2013
Visas are free for most nationalities but you might need to show your return/onward ticket out of the country.
Money-exchange: All the major banks exchange foreign currency but rates for USD and Euros are poor.
Getting to Nuku’Alofa from the international airport: Taxis are Tala 40 – 50. Otherwise walk / hitchhike to the main road, ca. 1km away and from there catch the occasional bus or hitchhike into town. Tony (from Tony’s Guesthouse, cell 774 87 20) offers airport transfers for TOP 15.—each way and will also drop you at any location in town or pick you up from there.
Sim Card: Buy a Digicell Sim (as many locals have one) at the airport office. They are TOP 3.
On arrival get yourself a free copy of Jasons, Tonga Visitor Guide, 2013-2014. They have more accurate details available. You can find them at the airport, the hotels, tourism bureau, Friend’s café etc.
On return, always check your flight departure at the last minute – before leaving to the airport. Had twice a flight change of 12 hours within 8 days (once leaving Fiji, the other one leaving Tonga) without any email or phone information, nor did they contact my acc.
Within my 7 days in Tonga I spent my time on Tongatapu- and Eua Island.
Tongatapu:
Stayed at Misa Guest House, cell 878 07 78, which is run by Chinese who speak little English. It’s right in the center of town, next to the Queen Salote Hall (the big green house) on Mateialona Road (on the intersection with Railway/One Way Road). The rooms are shabby but are the cheapest in town, their guests are mostly locals. Singles are TOP 23 + 3 for a fan, doubles are 46. From here you can walk anywhere in town and it’s only a couple of minutes to the market or the Centenary Chapel/ Free Wesley Church, which is the King’s church.
There is a new Guest House in town, which is about to open. Fila’s Guesthouse, cell 775 53 67 or 77 48 12. It’s basically a house with 2-3 single rooms and one double room, washing machine, kitchen, nice garden. Singles are about 40, doubles about 80, prices haven’t been decided finally. It’s about 1km from the town center.
Centenary Chapel: Each Sunday at 10am, a 2 hour church service starts and mostly members of the royal family will attend it. When I visited the Queen was present, sitting less than 10m away (on a higher platform in front to left when you enter). The service was well done and the Holy Communion was moving, first and alone the Queen and later everybody who could walk, going in turns of 20 to the front.
On the way to the wharf, I got invited for lunch and the locals insisted on feeding me 2 bowls of ota (raw fish in lemon- and coconut juice with vegetables). Next I hoped on the small shuttle boat to Pangaimotu Island, 15 minutes from the wharf, last departure 1pm. TOP 20 return plus your consumption on the island (lunch and/or drinks) The place is run by Earl, a friendly guy, who came to Tonga over 40 years ago at the age of 24. Snorkeling around the cool shipwreck which sticks up into the open reveals plenty of fish and much cooler water than at the beach. There is another good snorkeling spot at the far side of the island. The restaurant has snorkeling gear but most is broken.
On December 2nd there was a huge procession from the Free Wesley Church marching through town to the Kings Palace in the morning. All locals dressed in their best, musicians trumpeting around and even a wingless airplane was part of the show. This event seems to be new so watch out next year – it’s a great photo opportunity.
Oholei Beach and Hina Cave Feast and Show: Cell 777 87 13, land line 28 864. Dinner and Shows run on Wednesday and Friday nights, starting at 8pm. Admission is TOP 40, plus TOP 15 for retrun pick-up. (The website still mentions transport is for free, the problem is they don’t know how to take it off). On Sundays at 2pm there is only a feast but no show. Prices are TOP 30 for the big meal and transport is TOP 20 return. Call for reservations. In short the buffet food is great, eat as much as you like (but buy your own drinks) and the show is entertaining. Simana Kami, your manager, host, singer and showman runs the place after a 23 years break for 6 years now. But it was his father who started the great idea in the 60’ties. The show includes plenty of songs and dances plus the goodie at the end: a fire-dance, all set up inside the Hina Cave. Recommended.
Apart from laughing and eating with locals or expats I visited the main market, walked the small town and went on a day tour with Tony (from Tony’s Guest House, cell 774 87 20, landline 210 49). Tony is a real character, talking, explaining and pointing out things nonstop as you go and he will take in all the main sights of the island. The tours cost TOP 60, take about 6-7h and start normally at 10am.
The ferry to Eua Island leaves currently around 11am, be there at 10am. Tickets cost TOP 23 and the ferry takes around 3h. Return ferries are around 3.30 – 4pm, be there 1h ahead of time. The ride can be jumpy, even in plain sunshine. In case you easily get seasick, gulp a tablet as even the locals were vomiting through the windows.
Eua Island:
With the wales all gone, there was still plenty to see on beautiful Eua. The island has plenty of pine trees which grow often next to palms and mango trees. The coastline is rugged with good lookout points, high above the fierce sea, there are caves to explore, beautiful beaches and good walks.
Regarding whale watching: Note the season is from the middle of June to the first week of October. Between July and September whales are “guaranteed” as Wolfgang (see below) told me. In Eua, the sea can be a bit rough but you swim in deep, clear water. It’s more difficult to swim with the whales here than in Vavau where the lagoon is calmer but the visibility can be much less.
There are currently 4 sleeping options at Eua. Opposite the wharf is Deep Blue Diving/ Ovaka Tree Lodge which is run by Wolfgang, a german dive master and manager of the place. Single’s are TOP 60, doubles are 80, dinner (great) pizza’s are 25 and the price includes a breakfast and a light lunch. Whale watching/swimming are TOP 200. Dives include the famous Catherdral-Cave.
Hideaway is around 3km from the wharf, further away is Deep Resort.
I stayed at Taina’s Place which has a beautiful garden and great walking maps. Cell 77 65 002, land line 50 186. Ferry pick up, TOP 10 or take the local bus, TOP 1 which leaves from the wharf just after the ferry has arrived.
Dormitory: TOP 27, Singles: TOP 45 / Doubles: TOP 60, Family room TOP 85.
Breakfast TOP 18, lunch TOP 16, dinner TOP 25 (seems a bit overpriced). There are shops on the island, the one closest to Taina is about 20 minutes’ walk away.
Tina died in 2012, her husband Day married again and is currently modernizing the bungalows which clearly show their age. There will be new bungalows coming too, which should be ready for the 2014 whale watching season.
Eua Sightseeing: I did the following walks: Went alone with Taina’s maps to Fangalahi Beach, which is an hour away. The description was good but you have to climb/ crawl 2 fences on the way. You also need a little sense of orientation/ careful map reading as you head along the sometimes not very clear trail.
I also visited the huge Banyan tree, good in late afternoon but got stopped by a huge bull a short way before viewing the smoking cave. We both got startled as we met each other’s unexpectedly but the bull was very much alert and there was no way to pass around him. Therefore I wished him well and went back home. Approx. 1h return.
Within one full day I visited 2 of their day programs. I started with Day (husband of Tina) in the morning to the Fangatave Beach, TOP 20 transport per person, TOP 40 guide, per group. After a ride to the North of the island in an old battered 4x4 pick-up, it took us about an hour to work our way down to the beach. There is some basic climbing required (level 2-2+) as you descend steeply via open caves to the beach. Fortunately most of the way is in the shade. Count an hour or so to explore the various caves and don’t forget your flash light to peek into some dark holes to say hello to the local bats. This walk you should do with a guide.
After a lunch break with a short siesta we took off once more, this time to the southern tip of the island and visited the rock gardens, the natural archway, viewed the rough sea from high look outs points above the cliffs and saw horses, parrots and wild pigs. From the big (first) rock garden you generally walk north along the track for as long as you want to go and later head back the same way. To view the Arch you have to go 5 minutes inland through the bush. Follow the descriptions. On the way back we had a look at Ha’aluma Beach and saw the old Tongan stone cuts. Good in late afternoon. When you hit the beach, one site of 2 stone cuts lies just to the left, the other one shortly to the right, just before the water hit the sand. All of the afternoon program you could easily do alone but it would help if you get a car drop-off at the rock-garden and a pick-up at Ha’aluma Beach, TOP 20 per person (including guide TOP 40 per group). This way you save 15km of walk.
Enjoy Tonga,
Roger
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