Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

two weeks in Tonga

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Tonga

Hi,

We are arriving in Tonga end of October for a two week holiday. Will spend our first coupla days in Tongatapu at the Blue Banana. After that we may head to Eua's Hideaway Resort and camp ($10 per night?) and do some walking.

Have heard Pangaimotu Island Resort is fulll of rats - any thoughts?

After this, we'd be keen to head north
-Can we take a ferry to both the Vavau islands and Ha'apai islands? (Would prefer not to fly, to save $$.)
-Is one group of islands better than the other? (As we only have two weeks, don't want to rush around too much.)

We aren't divers (asthma) but are keen to do some snorkelling, walking and lazing on nice beaches.
-Can anyone recommend nice, budget, accom or camping in Ha'apai or Vavau group, with easy access to good snorkelling (walking distance)?

Have heard good things about: Mariners cafe, Lifuka, Ha'apai
Pangai Fifita Guesthouse , Lifuka

Foa Island
Uiha island, Felema Village
Uoleva Island

Any comments on the above appreciated.

How about places in Vavau??

Cheers,
Aoo

Adventure Backpackers on Vavau is centrally located. But on the main island, and the ones connected to it by causeways, there aren't any real attractive beaches for swimming or snorkleing. You need to get out to the little islets for the best beache and snorkeling, and that will mean you need to rent a small boat the for day, or go on a snorkeling trip, not exactly budget-style items.

Haven't been to Ha'apai [except at the airport] and it does look a lot sandier than Vavau. Others here on the TT can give you more info.

You can take a ferry to Haapai and Vavau, but it is notoriously fairly rough much of the time.

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Highly recommend 'Uoleva in Ha'apai. Beautiful beaches all around you. Great snorkeling. You may be able to camp, or stay at either Taiana's or Captain Cook's.

2

sorry for a bit of a highjack but can anyone tell me how to contact taiana's to organise to stay? Is it somewhere that needs to be booked, if so how? Thanks and sorry to butt in on another post!

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Cheers Raro and Amalie for your help : )

Can anyone tell us ticket prices and journey times (approx.) for the ferry trip from Tongatapu to Ha'apai?
Also, how regular (and reliable) is the service? (I understand nothing happens on Sundays : ) )

Is it hard being vegetarian and eating out in Tonga?

Cheers!

4

Taking the Ferry in Tonga is a tough way to travel not only is it often rough it's slow crowded and erratic.

If you don't eat fish you'll be able to find pasta/pizza and um...............maybe pizza and of course french fries sometimes fruit salad.

Some fruits/veggies are on offer in markets depnding on the season-you'll be cooking for yourself a lot.

Hillside Motel in Neiafu has hostel accommodation but as mentioned there is no snorkeling of note in walking distance.

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<blockquote>Quote
<hr>Have heard good things about: Mariners cafe, Lifuka, Ha'apai<hr></blockquote>

It's pretty well the only place to hang out in Lifuka at night... It's okay, don't expect a raving Bangkok nightclub.

<blockquote>Quote
<hr> Pangai Fifita Guesthouse , Lifuka<hr></blockquote>

Again, it's just okay. I found it clean and the staff were indifferent. There is some noise at night. I didn't know pigs mated at night. Fifita Guesthouse is directly above the Mariner Cafe.

<blockquote>Quote
<hr>You can take a ferry to Haapai and Vavau, but it is notoriously fairly rough much of the time.<hr></blockquote>

I was seasick even before we left port in Nuku'alofa.... You'll need to bring lots of Gravol for this trip. It was extremely memorable. And bring a blanket too for warmth... and your own eats and drinks.
It is truly a 3rd world experience. You're better off to fly.

<blockquote>Quote
<hr>Highly recommend 'Uoleva in Ha'apai. Beautiful beaches all around you<hr></blockquote>

Yup... It has some of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen on the planet.

<blockquote>Quote
<hr>You may be able to camp, or stay at either Taiana's or Captain Cook's.<hr></blockquote>

I liked Taiana's, but apparently Kilofi (the owner) is in jail on a recent report from Wave2Angela and his wife is trying to run the place single handedly. That being said, it is a perfectly safe place to stay. It brings new meaning to the word rustic, the food is basic, but the friendliness and beach are unforgettable. Bring everything you need from Lifuka including water, as the water there is brackish.
Again, there are romantic swine about after dark and they are not beyond singling out single human male travellers with their romanictic eye either!! LOL.

<blockquote>Quote
<hr>Is it hard being vegetarian and eating out in Tonga?<hr></blockquote>

Yes.

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There are two ferries to Ha'apai; 'Olovaha and Pulupaki. Pulupaki doesn't have a web-site.

'Olovaha

To book for Taiana, I usually ask Ha'apai Visitors' Bureau to do it. Tel & Fax is +676-60733. They don't have e-mails.

It's not hard to be a vegetarian in Tongatapu, but is hard in anywhere else.

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Hi there

For what you want to do, Ha'apai is definitely the best bet and yes, Uoleva is great. We run Mariner's Cafe and based on reports from people that have been staying on Uoleva, Capt. Cooks is presently the better spot to stay.

If you email me I can book on your behalf.

Looking forward to seeing you

Cheers

Craig

8

Hey there

I just got back from spending a week at Matafonua Lodge on Foa Island (Ha'apai). It was fantastic. The beach was incredible and the weather was great. Matafonua Lodge is run by a kiwi couple (Sally and Dave) and they were good hosts (NZ$120 a night for a double fale). My travelling partner is strict vegetarian but she managed to get good meals. We always ate at Matafonua as the Pangai village is 20km away. The food was good and reasonable. They even put on a tongan feast and dancing for us on one night.

The fales are really nice and clean and its no problem with the shared amenities. Would def recommend it over paying double the price for Sandy Beach Resort (which is just down the road). We took some NZ wine with us and they were happy to let us BYO each night.

Definitely recommend staying here! We had such a relaxing time.

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i also didn't have too much trouble being vegetarian in Tonga. You don't have too much choice in many cases but you can eat fairly well and can have some variety.

In Nuku'alofa the worst was at the good samaritan friday night feast, but i was not expecting it to be vegetarian friendly! If you go, make sure you are 1st in line or you will have even less to choose from! You can get plenty of garlic bread and dessert, and still enjoy the show.
The chinese (emerald something its called - on the waterfront) is a bargain and even serves Tofu! But beware mapo tofu and egg fried rice both have meat in them, even though you would think they dont! sizzling tofu is good, so is the fried noodles. (its T$5 - T$8 for a meal :) )
Friends cafe does sandwiches for about T$7 They are not bad.
If you go to a resort place like Pangamoto or Good Samaritan for lunch and they have only meat meals like burgers and chips, you can ask them to make you a cheese and tomato toasted sandwich without too much hassle.

I stayed at the hideaway in 'eua - they have a vegetarian option, which i think is a large portion of the side dishes everyone else is getting or you can ask for one of the fish/chicken dished to be made vegetarian (choices like curry, coconut milk, stir fry..) I don't know of any other places to eat on 'eua, other accomodation also may provide meals.

In Vava'u there is plenty to eat - the most appealing sounding vegetarian menu is the Cafe Tropicana but the food there is TERRIBLE. = avoid.
Tongan Bobs nachos are great, freshly cooked chips and large enough for 2 people for a light dinner. T$17
The crowsnest breakfast for T$10 is eggs, toast and delicious potatoes, and best of all its available until about 2pm!
Ciao pizza T$15 is bigger than the plate it comes on and yum! pasta there is tasty too, and comes with homemade bread.
The chinese there is the same menu as the one in Nukualofa, same super cheap prices to! (different name - its near the wharf)

I didn't go to Ha'apai but i hear there is only 1 place you can go to eat there. Maybe it would be harder there, I was also told there is no ATM on Ha'apai for the record.

As for self catering - you can find bread and crackers which you can eat with jam or peanut butter for breakfast and lunches. You can get tea, coffee and milk, and breakfast cereal too. Instant noodles are always around - keep a few packs in your bag just in case! You can buy cheese too. I had trouble locating pasta sauce in Tonga. Fruit is easy to find at markets and its cheap. Papayas, bananas and coconuts especially at the moment.

10

Hi guys,

just came back from tonga and spent two weeks in Ha'apai. Mariners Cafe is definetly the meeting point and only bar/restaurant in Ha'apai. Craig and his partner are friendly and funny and very helpful (just watch out for those slippery rocks craig!). Order some of the secret rum punch sold under the table, haha.

You can also get food at the posh resorts at the northern tip of Foa (Sandy Beach Resort and Matafonua), but these places are crazily expensive ($350/150 per night) and are full of white people and are not Tongan at all.

We spent 7 nights on Uoleva in Captain Cook's Hideaway. That place is awesome! It has the most spectacular beach and our hut (ask for the blue one) was right on it. All amenities were basic but absolutely clean and tidy. Get Maria and Soni to cook for you. Wonderful Tongan food (you might struggle if you are vegetarian but if you eat fish you'll have no problems).
Taiana's (Diana's) Resort right next door looked run down and we heard shocking reports from three girls who spent one night there and had to share their beds with rats and ants!!! They planned to stay longer but left the island the next morning in a hurry.

In Pangai we stayed at Evaloni's Guesthouse which wasn't clean and the owner was extremely unfriendly and seemed to not care at all. The next night we stayed at Mele Tonga Guesthouse. The people there were friendly and the place was in a beautiful location right on the beach. However it was so dirty I wouldn't let my dog sleep there. The nicest place was Fifita's Guesthouse above Mariner's Cafe. Friendly staff, clean rooms and central location.

The Tongan people are lovely and want to know all about you, so you'll have a great time

Cheers Matt & Pippa

11

Enjoyed my stay at the hideaway on Aua and the 4*4 day trip is a must.

Mariners cafe is about the only place on Hapai to have a drink and meal, unless you are staying at the Matafona Lodge. Graig and his Polish wife will make you feel welcome.

Did not see any rats on Pangai, but would only recommend it for a day trip or two.

Good bet to stay on Tongatapu is Ali Bar bar guesthouse. It is not the building on the corner,but travel to end of small road and it is a large modern guesthouse hidden away in the corner. Has a telescope too which you can use if you ask nicely.

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I travel around the Pacific with sales work.

I always stay at Port Wine and have eaten everyone and can highly recommend Cafe Tropicana - I am semi vegetarian and have never had a bad meal their this year since it was taken over. Their menu is extensive and caters for veg and non-veg alike. The owners are full of useful tips.

Ciao is also good but has recently been sold and is closed till June 2008.

I don't like the owners of Crows Nest as the owners are always foul looking and more focused on money than service.

Other good places to stay are Mystic Sands and Hilltop

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