Cook Islands next May

Greetings! I return after a lengthy absence from this group. I have booked 2 tickets to Raro on frequent flier miles. I'll arrive May 24 and my spouse will join me 3 days later. I will have a total of 18 days in the Cooks, 15 of which will be with spouse. We are hoping to keep the total budget (food, accommodation, internal flights, some scuba) to $6000, though that will include 3 days in Auckland on our way back.

Our interests: nice beaches, chatting with locals, chatting with travelers, snorkeling, kayaking, hiking, drinking coconuts and eating local food (how I miss the umu cooking from my trip to Samoa long ago!). No internet access is actually a plus, given our level of addiction.

What we don't like: Being completely isolated from other people--part of the fun of traveling for us is meeting people.

My initial thought is 4 days on Raro (4 for me, 1 for spouse), then head to Aitutaki for several days. The question is where next--continue to Atiu or backtrack and head elsewhere? I've read up on the outer islands and my concern is the comments about not seeing other people for days. Is there an outer island that is a little more social? I'm not looking for a party scene, just interesting people (we're both in our mid-30s and passed our party stage of life). We are okay with staying in cheaper accommodation to devote more money to internal flights.

Stupid question, but I assume that there is plenty in the Cooks to keep us occupied such that it isn't worth splitting the time with Tahiti? It seems like it would make more sense to do that as a separate trip.

Any advice or suggestions are appreciated. Note that my only base of comparison for Pacific travel is Palau, Yap, Fiji, and Samoa.

My wife and I have been to the Cooks seven times. You might say it's our favorite SP destination.

We are hoping to keep the total budget (food, accommodation, internal flights, some scuba) to $6000, though that will include 3 days in Auckland on our way back...... If it doesn't include airfare and your budget 1,000USD for Aukland $5,000 is plenty for 18 days in the Cooks.

Our interests: nice beaches, chatting with locals, chatting with travelers, snorkeling, kayaking, hiking, drinking coconuts and eating local food (how I miss the umu cooking from my trip to Samoa long ago!). No internet access is actually a plus, given our level of addiction...... You'll meet plenty of fellow travelers on Raro and Aitutaki and a few on Atiu, fewer on the other islands. Cook Islanders are very friendly. Especially on Mangaia, Mauke & Mitiaro and less so on on Raro, Aitutaki and only slightly less on Atiu.

You'll spend the most money on Raro and Aitutaki but they're cheap to get to. It's easy to live on $150-200 a day on Mangaia, Mitiaro or Mauke and $200/day on Atiu. Budget $250-300/on Aitutaki.

Flights to all but Aitutaki and Atiu run $400 RT. There's a three-island RT for Roro-Aitutaki-Atiu-Raro for around $500. ($ are all USD)

Stupid question, but I assume that there is plenty in the Cooks to keep us occupied such that it isn't worth splitting the time with Tahiti?..... That depends on what you find worth your time. I don't think you could include Tahiti in a $5K budget.

Thanks for the advice, H2ooh. All of the international flights were free, so we indeed have $5000 for the Cooks (reserving $1000 for NZ). The budget can be extended if need be given how far out the trip is, but it sounds like we have a comfortable amount based on your comments.

It sounds like I will want to go back over Mangaia, Mitiaro, and Mauke posts and choose one. My initial thought would be Raro, Aitutaki, Atiu (taking advantage of the 3 island run), and then one additional flight to another outer island. Getting to see islanders going about their daily lives (from a respectful distance) is interesting to me. I'm the travel geek who always goes to the grocery store just to see what is on the shelf.

We'll save Tahiti for another day; it isn't our highest priority.

(from a respectful distance)

Don't worry about it.... just make friends and you'll be part of the action! Tell your hosts that you want to make friends and mingle with the locals... Outer Cook Islanders typically offer a warm welcome and are very helpful to island visitors.

My initial thought would be Raro, Aitutaki, Atiu (taking advantage of the 3 island run), and then one additional flight to another outer island.

On Aitutaki rent a scooter and putt around the island. If folks are waving from their yards and porches stop and say hi. Ask them about places to see, fruit to buy, best shops, somebody that might take you fishing, etc. You be surprised at how friendly and outgoing they are. Often they'll ask you to come on in and sit down and chat. Most homes are humble but clean, much cleaner that any other SP destinations I've visited.
You can usually get a beach-front bungalow for $120/day at Paradise Cove if you stay for 5-7 days. Scooters run around $20 and meals less than $50/pp/day. Snorkel gear is a spendy $10NZ a day but you can buy them in Raro for $75NZ a set. They'll come in handy on all of the outer islands. And aren't readily available except for Raro and Aitutaki. Good fishing but they sell the catch to the hotels. It's the price you pay for being in a tourist spot.

For Atiu check with Marshal Humpreys and see if you can book his B&B. He's a super guide and knows a lot about the lore and history of the islands. Get Birdman George to take you on a tour and a beach lunch. Get a scooter there but be careful when it rains. There are lots of hills and the red clay roads get slippery when wet. Good fishing and most Atiu fisherman will share the catch with you.

Let us know when you select a fourth island. Mangaia is very independent and proud of it and has a lot to see and do. Mangaia is fun-loving and always ready for a party. Mauke is probably the friendliest island I've ever visited and is romantic, quiet and beautiful. Fishing is good and you can usually get someone to take you out if you pay for the gas. I usually offer them some fishing lures or tackle as a gift when I leave the island.

All of the outer islanders are friendly, unassuming and very nice people to know. Once you settle in you'll have an experience that will stay with you for a long time.

Chilly bins (coolers) are a premium item on the outer islands. We usually take one with us full of stuff we like to eat and also fishing tackle and gear. When we leave we give it to a school, or some community group or to an individual that has a need. The young men on the island will appreciate the snorkel gear when you depart your last outer island. and they'll be better equipped to provide fish for their family and friends.

Thank you, this is all very helpful information!

We don't currently know how to ride a scooter, but our friend is a motorcycle driving teacher, so we plan to learn. We dive, so we'll be bringing our own mask, snorkel, and fins and our dive computers.

I will look for a good deal on a cooler, though I'll need to check what the baggage restrictions are on Air Raro. Right now, it looks like we'll have our two backpacks, a day pack (that fits under the seat), and a bag of winter clothes for NZ that we'll check on our international flight. We'll look for a hotel in Raro to stay both at the beginning and end, so we can leave the NZ bag there.

I'm glad that the outer island locals are friendly; there are so many conversations that I treasure from my various travels.

One more question: Are there any small gifts that you can recommend to give to outer islanders who host us, help us out, or the like?

American candy seems to be a hit. M&Ms, cinnamon bears, etc. Peanut butter is very expensive. A fillet knife and a diamond sharpening stone is very much appreciated and towels are expensive there.

Schools can use stuff like cameras, colored pencils, calculators, etc. We took some Flip video cameras one time and they were a big hit with the teachers to document school activities and put them on the local TV station.

You should read up on gift-giving for the Polynesian people before you go. Their customs are different than ours and a gift carries with it an obligation to give something back. It doesn't apply to institutions like schools though. You can always make it known that you place high value on things that are free or inexpensive to locals like coconuts, fruit, etc.

The 3 island visit including Atiu will be awesome. I found Atiu to have quite a social atmosphere if you are happy to mix with the locals at the Tumunu, on the various tours, and at your accommodation. I stayed at Atiu Villas and had a great time mingling with fellow guests at the bar and over dinner. The central shop is owned by the properietors of Atiu Villas with a very interesting range of stock on hand.

For accommodation on Rarotonga, a smaller resort like Cooks Oasis, Aroa Beachside Inn (hard-case American owner), Rarotonga Beach Bungalows may work well with leaving luggage there in between islands. Don't miss the Saturday market on Rarotonga for local foods and platters of cooked food for $10.00.

H2ooh: I will do some searches to find more on gift-giving in Polynesia. I have little experience with that culture outside the 2 weeks I spent in Samoa many years ago. Drinking coconuts, to me, have very high value, so maybe I could explain the gift of M&Ms or the like in that context. It does seem easier to buy things for schools.

Lagoon: Thank you for the accommodation recommendations. I am looking forward to the Rarotonga Saturday market--I love polynesian food!

If anyone has recommendations of which island is best for buying black pearls, I would appreciate it. Obviously, I have no way of heading to the North to get them straight from the source.

tilos wrote: I will do some searches to find more on gift-giving in Polynesia. I have little experience with that culture outside the 2 weeks I spent in Samoa many years ago. Drinking coconuts, to me, have very high value, so maybe I could explain the gift of M&Ms or the like in that context.

One day, on our second trip to Aitutaki, we were riding around on a scooter. My wife's hat blew off her head. Before we could circle back around to get it a local child ran out and retrieved it and handed it to us as we pulled up. They invited us in for a nice visit and they showed us how the kids collected land crabs and fattened them up for the table. When we left they gave us a bag of mangoes to take with us.

The next day we stopped by and gave them a bag of M&Ms. We were staying at Paradise Cove. For the rest of the week we found a bag of mangoes on our doorstep every morning.

Now every time we go back to Aitutaki we stop by and say hi to that family. That's how easy it is to make friends with Cook Islanders.

Rarotonga is the biggest local market for black pearls - both set and loose. Several sellers are also pearl farmers in Manihiki so you could see what they have in stock and look around to compare quality and prices. Moana Gems in Avarua (opposite T Shirt Factory) and Farm Direct Pearls in Avatiu (opposite the marina) would be 2 shops to start your search.

H2ooh mentioned Paradise cove on Aitutaki. This is a good budget entry accommodator located on Amuri beach. Other accommodation to consider include Matriki eco-huts also on Amuri Beach, and Ranginui's in Ootu. Ootu is a neat little spot, some distance away from town, but it has a social atmosphere with 4 cafes/licenced restaurants within a short distance. Great kayaking and swimming in the area. Hire scooters available in Ootu.

For gifts, also consider toiletries that aren't likely to be available in the Cook Islands. Chocolates and candy always go down well for individuals and family groups. We have a Polynesian custom when a gift is offered, the recipient exchanges something in return. Bonds are formed for life this way.

Scuba operators available on Rarotonga - some 6 or 7, with 2 dive companies on Aitutaki. All the best with your planning.

Thank you again for all the good advice! Lagoon--what kind of toiletries would be hard to find? I have lots of small sample-size perfumes that I could bring with me. Or I could bring shampoo or razors if people would find that to be useful.

H2ooh--based on all your stories, we'll definitely have to spend a nice chunk of time in Aitutaki. Thanks both of you for the accommodation recommendations. I'm going to start sifting through all this good information.

United lost the booking on my spouse's ticket, and I thought the trip was doomed. But after 2 hours on the phone last night, we are now heading in and out on the same flight for 16 days total (lost my 2 extra days and lost the NZ layover, but that's okay). At least this will make it easier to pack without having to worry about winter clothing.

How unfortunate and stressful for you to find your original bookings were disrupted. Good to hear you're on track again, and will have your travel companion on all the flights now.

The small sample perfumes are a great idea. These will be most appreciated especially on Aitutaki where people don't have the same access to larger stores and spending power that we have here on Rarotonga. So long as the razors and similar items are stowed within your checked luggage you will be fine to bring them in. If need be, explain to our customs that they are intended as gifts for a voluntary community group or health provider. We now have outposts on all the outer islands via the Red Cross and disability centre to provide home-care delivery for people in need among our population. On Aitutaki, Mrs Davey and Mrs Lockington can be reached through the Women's Division centre there.

Another tip for Aitutaki, if you have time on Rarotonga first, bring one of the collapsible insulated cooler/chiller bags with you to purchase some supplies from the supermarket and Ocean Fresh Fish shop to take to Aitutaki. Being a small island with low population, Aitutaki doesn't have access to the same range of goods, and accompanying prices, that we have on Raro. Both stores are located within 1.5 kms of the airport. If you are travelling to Aitutaki on a domestic flights only ticket, the passenger limit is 16Kgs. But if you are travelling on an international ticket with flights to/from Aitutaki, there is certain relaxation of the weight limit.

Edited by: lagoon

Our limitation will be the domestic weight allowance. With regard to the 20 kg weight restriction, can that be spread out over multiple bags? My full backpack typically weighs only 20 lbs, giving us extra weight for a cooler or the like.

Many long-haul airlines will weigh your carry-on bag. Air NZ does about half the time. For Air NZ expect every time from NZ, sometimes from the US and rarely from Raro. Most will not weigh your personal bag. Normal economy baggage is 1 personal item, 1 carry-on bag and 1 checked bag.

I put as much weight in my personal bag as I can. It needs to fit under a seat. The weight limit for carry-ons is 7kg. (15.4lbs.) If you need to reduce carry-on bag weight, you can always wear extra clothing from it when you board.

Most long-haul carriers are pretty strict on the 20kg checked bag weight limit.

Air Raro is inconsistent about allowing international passengers to take more than 20kg. I got nailed for $60 last year on a Raro-Mauke flight. I think it depends on how much freight business they have at the time. They probably don't like having to displace paying freight with free luggage.

From Auckland to Rarotonga (and return), Air NZ allows 23Kg per passenger. They are strict in monitoring this though, with weighin at the automated checkins being routinely screened by the checkin staff. Check whether your international ticket allows a similar weight limit.

I'm also aware that Air Raro keeps a close check on domestic ticket passengers keeping to the weight limit and incurring charges otherwise. But I do invariably read about international passengers having the benefit of relaxed application when flying into Raro to continue their journey to an outer island. If you find yourselves obviously overweight before continuing to Aitutaki/elsewhere, best to take excess luggage across to the Air Raro freight centre first rather than paying penalty fees at the actual checkin. Air Raro feight is called Jet X and is found just beyond Air NZ's cargo base.

Air Rarotonga excess baggage...

Last November we took a chilly bin, standard suitcase, two 7-kg carry-ons and two personal bags on a flight to Mauke.

All the bags were within the allowable weight limits on our inbound flight from LAX. Checked bags were < 20kg, carry-ons were 7kg and personal bags were 3-6kg.

When checking in for our flight to Mauke, on the same day as our arrival from LAX, we were told by the guy at the check-in counter that we had to pay an additional $60 for excess baggage. I reminded him that we were inbound on an Intl flight and he said it didn't matter.

We paid him $60 cash and didn't get a receipt. I checked with the staff in the office and they backed him up. I didn't feel the matter was worth pursuing further.

We'll see what happens this year :-)

It sounds like I will need to strictly comply with the domestic limits. Because the international tickets were booked using United miles, all of my domestic flights will be on a different itenerary. So I'm not going to have even a colorable claim that the international standards should apply.

I'll just make sure I weigh everything before hand. 7 kg almost covers my backpack's typical packed weight, so I'm guessing I can make this work. I'll need to weigh my diving equipment.

I usually prefer not to check things at all, but it seems worth it to bring stuff to the islands that people can't easily get. And the chilly bin does seem like a useful thing.

On Air Raro expect to check everything except your personal bag. It's very informal and on any flight other than Aitutaki they load the bulk of the bags in the rear of the cabin behind a cargo net. They don't even ask for boarding passes.

In the Atiu airport there's a sign requesting that passengers check their AK-47s an any explosives with the pilot. It's pretty informal.... island style :-)

Hello! Just to update, I have booked my internal flights. Given we want a long stay in Aitutaki, we will just be doing the 3 island visit. Plan is to arrive in Raro late evening on the May 24th, continue to Aitutaki on the afternoon 26th, to Aitu on June 2, and back to Raro on June 5. Our international flight departs on June 10th. We had to get the last two legs as fully flexible tickets (due to the other ones selling out), so in theory, the last two legs can be moved or cancelled.

For Aitutaki, Ranginui's looked like our style, so we sent an e-mail to check availability. I will now research your recommendations for the other islands.

Thank you for all of your advice so far!

@H2ooh and @lagoon--any recommendations for mid-priced accommodations on Raro? We'll need a place to stay for two nights at the beginning of the trip when we're getting over our jetlag (maybe something close to stores to keep things easy while we get our bearings?) then 4 nights at the end of our trip.

Ideal price range would be $100-200 USD/night, though we would consider a higher-end splurge at the end of the trip.

Thanks for all of your help, as always!

EDIT: Nevermind, just found a bunch of great recommendations from both of you in the back posts.

We stayed at the Coconut Grove for two days on our way back from Mauke in November. The cost was NZ$160 for Fri and Sat with a 8:00PM check to catch the ANZ flight to LAX. Nice private a/c accommodations with a happy hour and entertainment on Fri nite.

H2ooh--thank you for the recommendation. For some reason, I can't find a website for a Coconut Grove in Raro (only Fiji and Miami). Could you give me a link?

tilos #22
Oops.... I meant Palm Grove, sorry for the misinformation.

It's not in town but you can rent a car for $50NZ a day. Transfers to/from most accommodations are $15 a head; for a couple that's $60 just to get from and back to the airport. We used Avis, you can pickup and drop the car at the airport. I don't recommend a scooter on Raro, too much car and truck traffic.

Thank you! The rate appears to have gone up to $225 NZ a day for the cheapest room, but given our budget is in dollars, that should still fit.

We will probably look at this for the last few days in Raro (we'll be getting in really late on our arrival into the Cook Islands and won't feel up to navigating on strange roads on the LHS of the road))

Did you call them or do it over the web. You'll get the best deals by making a personal phone call to them..

Then you can tell them all the great things you've heard about them, etc.... the personal touch always works best

Oh, good to know! I will do this.