| jirikoo09:18 UTC27 Jan 2007 | Before I was planning my 3-week trip to Fiji I used this forum as helper so I seem like I owe some people that helped me some interaction. Therefore I decided to make this report giving other travellers potencial advice where to go, what not to miss and vice versa.
I came back from Fiji just 3 days ago and it was trip of my life. I arrived to Fiji when the result of the coup culminated, however I felt absolutly safe. I didnt meet many tourists but then im my last days in Fiji the number got higher.
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I started out in Nomad Sky Lodge hostel in Nadi. Dorm 27 FJD, free pick up on the airport - obviously, at that time it was nearly empty.
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Nadi - trip within the town. Avoid the taxi drivers standing by hostels [in my case it was in front of Sky Lodge] unless you agree on a reasonable price. They [mostly Indians] try to ripp you off. The best means of transport not only within Nadi in my opinion is using the local trasnport - buses. Riding with real locals, a less cost and by far more fun. I love it! Next option is minibuses which are vans. Similar cost as buses, they stop where you hail them.
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Then I headed to village Viseisei prearranged through http://www.fijianfamilies.com. Take 2-3 night to get to know the real Fiji experience. Its just 20 mins by bus from Nadi. If you stay in Viseisei you will live with Luisina's family that can arrange also trip to Abaca village for you - the remote inland village in the Koroyianitu nat.park. Their relatives live there. I paid 50 FJD for the car and petrol expenses.
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Lautoka - all small towns in the mainland that I visited such as Lautoka, Nandi, Rakiraki, Nausori, Sigatoka. Korovou, Ba seemed alike to me. I liked the bustle in them. In Lautoka i recommend the local Saturday market.
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Abaca village - definitely worth visiting - nice pool and waterfalls and landscapes. On the way a spectacular view over Yasawas.
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Way from Nadi tu Suva via the southern Queen's road . I took one the minibuses. If you hurry, make sure of their exact departure. We were supposed to leave at 4 pm but because we didnt have enough passengers the driver was driving around town looking for others to fill in the capacity of the bus. Lastly, we left after 5pm. The trip takes 3.5 hours, cost no more than 15FJD.
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Suva - I stayed in South seas hotel. Colonial style, in the edge of the heart of the city, quiet, dorm 18 FJD. Nice personnel.
City of Suva - avoid hassles from men offering you guide or companion where to buy traditional Fijian crafts and similar things. They mostly lead you to one shop that try to sell you their stuff. I came across 4 of these men and it appears they found a NEW TRICK to look credible. The wear an official [?] badge of city council. Despite having been warned At the very first time I fell in one of them I followed wanting to know where a flee market was but he led me to one craft shop instead, then I got it and refused it but when again asking about the flee market he pulled out the swords asking me for a name. It was already enough for me I turned away walking out. After this I met some other guys [mostly native Fijian] with same badges.
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I headed out to island Ovalau. The fare ticket is to be bought in Patersson and brothers shipping company, just 3 mins by walk from Suva bus station. As a matter of fact, its bus-ferry-bus transport. One way ticket 26 FJD. The trip takes 4-5.5 hours depending on the ferry. In Ovalau I stayed in the old capital of Fiji, Levuka and in Levuka at first night in Royal Hotel [single room ensuite 26 FJD]. Next couple of nights I stayed in Mary's lodge - single or dorm 15 FJD incl. breakfast. Its worth it.
I love Levuka as well as whole Ovalau. I highly recommend them. Its so easy to make friends there. Everybody genuinely hails you and is interested where you come from and so. Island is good for hiking with really beautiful and scenic hils.
I made friends in a village name Vatukalo [6 kms to north of Levuka - vilage next to famous St.Jonh's college] and some girls in that village guided me inland for waterfalls and pools just as for fresh wild fruit that picked for me. Another highlight for me was a traditional lunch with the family of highest chief of Ovalau and Lomavity group. This family is really so keen and enthusiastic about meeting new people as they treated me unbelievably. As for these last two points, if you are about to Ovalau and wanna more info, contact me via private message or e-mail.
Transport in Ovalau. I used always taxis or minibuses or rarely shared trucks. Taxis 6 km 6FJD - expensive to the other trasports. Minibuses - 1FJD for 6 km ride. Trucks - 0.5-1 FJD for same way.
Internet cafes in Levuka. I recommend going to one Indian's grocery shop next to Whale tale restaurant on the main street - cheapest internet in Ovalau, trust me. Dont go for Internet to Royal hotel - rrrrrreally slooow internet connection.
I love Ovalau, although this island doesnt have nice beaches. For snorkeling go to Leleuvia or Caqalai island. The ferry - small boat costs 30 FJD [one ride] so its pretty expensive, it departs Levuka harbour by arrangment.
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Caqalai island - good snorkeling mostly off the main beach and around so called Snake island - small island just 800 m away from Caqalai. When is a low tide, you can easily walk there.
I like Caqalai, at that time not touristy, although they cry for them. Friendly people as staff. Its supposed to be a resortlike island but its factually more like a village, which I appreciated. Dorm + all meals 38 FJD per night. The quality and quantity of food literary depend on how many tourist are there at one time, even though a few of them complained about it. If you head back to the mainland they can drop you off there.
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After 15 days spended in Ovalau [in Levuka and also in villages] and partly in Caqalai I am back in Suva. Decided to go back to Nadi via the northern King's road. The eastern part of the road between Korovou and Rakiraki is still built [maybye for next 5 years]. The trip by bus [cost about 9 FJD] was quite adventurous and dodgy.
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In Rakiraki and surroundings you have probably only two options where to stay. A hotel by the main road - with taxi 3FJD or Volivoli beach resort - with taxi 10FJD. I stayed one night [25 FJD dorm] in the latter one. The resort was built just last year so everything shone new. Lots of activities [diving, waterscooters...], nice views, beautiful beach, pricey maindishes - only burgers, fish and chips etc. Its far to town so they are not too competitive...The resort was generally nice even though i am not a resort person [see below]. In Rakiraki and other towns actually I recommed dining in the chain of shops called Newworld - inexpensive curries and other foods.
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From Rakiraki to Lautoka take only express buses [i.e.: Sunbeam buses]! They are much faster than non-express for same price! The way takes around 1.5 hour. From Lautoka to Nadi take any bus of any corporation. The cost is about 1 fijian dollar.
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Last night in Fiji i stayed in Nadi Bay Hotel and spend by walking in Nadi. One night in air-conditioned dormitory room cost 27.85 FJD while in non-air-conditioned costs 24.70 FJD. Quite small premises, a lot to do, pools, live music - overall more lively than Nomad Sky Lodge hostel at my first night.
Sopping in Nadi - I went to side lanes and prices were better and no white tourists there. On the main street everybody tries to pull you in their shops, everybody hassles you. However, as i found out later prices of souvenirs are generally same or even higher than in the airport so take this into account and weigh everything up.
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Thank you everybody who has helped with planning my trip for his advice. For those who are only going to Fiji, feel free to ask me about any info [obviously i wasnt able to describe everything, what i experienced, to this post]. Past 20 days in Fiji were one of the best in my life mostly thanks to people I met there. I have never felt like I wanted to spend my time in resorts and except for 3 nights I avoided them fairly succesfully. I stayed in villages with real Fijians, dined, bathed, sang with them, rode in public transports with people not doing it not primarily for money like in resorts but because I was part of their lives then. I think I can say, I have experienced a real Fiji.
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| Laszlo13:55 UTC27 Jan 2007 | Ahoj, nice report - and a welcome change from the usual resort-oriented ones.
Weren't you planning to go to Taveuni or Kadavu, too?
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| silvanocat23:14 UTC27 Jan 2007 | Thanks for your report. I copied it for reference should I go to Fiji someday.
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| copperspoon10:02 UTC28 Jan 2007 | Very Kind of you to share your journey with us this way.
Your contribution Adds Value to the Forum for all!
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| jirikoo18:05 UTC28 Jan 2007 | Ahoj Laszlo - I planned one more island, somewhere in Yassawas, but I met the girls in Ovalau [village Vatukalo] so i 'stuck' there for longer, you know...:-]... I can't wait to come back.
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| Laszlo19:53 UTC28 Jan 2007 | Well, those other islands are not going to run away anywhere, and you are lucky enough to live relatively close to Fiji, too.
I also think it is better to stay longer somewhere one likes.
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