Fiji- viti levu or ovalau?

I am travelling to Fiji for 2 weeks in December over Christmas/ New year, as part of a 6 month trip.
I will be spending the first week in the yasawas.

For the second week I am trying to decide what to do. I am interested in experiencing some traditional fijian culture and do not want to go to a typical partying/nightlife backpacker place.

There seem to be alot of posts on here recommending Ovalau.

This looks great, but would this be trying to fit too much into the remaining week? does anyone have any other suggestions?
will I have to book accommodation in advance at this time of year?

Thanks v much

Should be enough time to comfortably combine Ovalau with the Yasawas.

Levuka on Ovalau has to be one of the most interesting old towns anywhere in Fiji. A couple of days there, maybe a jungle walk, 2-3 days on either Caqalai or Leleuvia island 'resorts'.

It'll be quite a contrast to the Yasawas, both in cost and the kinds of people you'll meet. Figure on a day's travel to get there -- maybe the quickest is a flight from nadi either direct to Ovalau (if it exists) or fly to Suva then to Ovalau from there. Travel overland will take a day, assuming you start from the Viti Levu 'mainland'.

Depending on where you are in the Yasawas, you'll also have to figure on getting to eg Nadi in the evening. So you'd have top stay somewhere overnight and head for Ovalau the next day.

Ovalau is definitely doable in a week, and is well worth visiting, especially for historical sights.
However it is not very traditional - for that, the interior of Viti Levu should definitely be better.

Laszlo, you should be here right now in Levuka on Ovalau. Bet you would change your mind about Ovalau not being very traditional. Tui Levuka (Chief) passed away last Saturday. Now there is the big regu-regu (funeral gathering). You have Fijian warriors (in traditional outfit) guarding the morgue and Levukavakaviti (the original village levuka). The Davui ( Triton's horn) is blown every 10 minutes - during the blow no-one is allowed to cry - the davui is the crying of the village. Tabuas (whale's tooth) are being exchanged with representatives of other villages, food is being carried to the chief's place to feed all the funeral guest. Certain villages have to bring traditionally certain food items and certain clans are not allowed to eat certain food in presence of certain other clans - how this works - I can't figure this out, you have to be a Fijian to know that. Etiquette has to be followed strictly, I was told that someone disturbing the etiquette, this someone will be beaten by a warrior - this is also a tradition (!)
There are many, many more traditions, I could fill pages with it, traditions not only followed for the funeral of a great chief - and with this I mean that Tui Levuka was indeed a very kind man, respected by all, Fijians, Indians and Europeans.
As a tourist walking through Levuka for a couple of days you will not be confronted very much with this cultural traditions - but they are there and being followed by people who live here.

However, if you see it for the architecture then Laszlo is right - it has not much to do with a Fijian village, because Levuka (town) was originally given to European settlers who built in their way, the colonial style. For this Levuka is given the status of "historical town" and it is being hoped that finally in 2009 Levuka will be nominated for UNESCO world Heritage site for it's uniqueness in the South Pacific.

Well, of course at special events any place can become traditional - even Suva has lots of traditional dancing on Fiji Day!

I indeed meant that a short-term visitor looking for traditional, tatched-bure villages readily visible any day would be better off in interior Viti Levu - though Lovoni in Ovalau felt pretty remote, too! ;-)