Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

indonesian papua wasxthe plan but...

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea

Dear all,
Just booked our tickets to Indonesia. We have about 18 days to spend on Papua. First idea was to go to the Baliem, trek there (less touristy Yali area maybe), if affordable get down to Asmat country... and...try to do some diving. Raja Ampat is ofc stuff of diving legends but...seems to be above our budgets...
Now I see it's possible to travel from Jayapura to PNG over Vanimo to Wewak and visit the Sepik area there. Maybe do some diving around Wewak if possible or Madang.

My questions:
What can we expect from the Sepik compared to the Baliem valley? Can it offer us a more authentic experience?
And also...I know PNG is more expensive then Indo Papua. But what are we talking here? Will visiting the Sepik area for say a week cost me double a week Baliem valley or.... I know it's hard to compare one on one but I'm trying to get an idea.

In short....hahaha....I'm actually asking to be convinced to get into PNG here...

Thx!!!!

With regard to diving in Raja Ampat you should have a look at stayrajaampat.com for information on budget accommodation and diving in the area. A number of budget places have opened, some that can organize diving for you. The site also gives information on the area, weather, how to get there,etc. We did not dive there but did spend 12 days snorkeling on a live aboard - the best we have ever done - the area is amazing and still pretty pristine!

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I also put together a fair amount of info on Rja Ampat here:

http://www.east-indonesia.info/regions/raja-ampat.html

The Sepik and the Baliem are VERY different.
The Baliem certainly offers far more beautiful scenery, while the Sepik offers amazing art. Both offer very traditional, but also very different villages.
Traditional dress is mostly gone from both, though you can still see a few old men in kotekas in the Baliem.
I do find PNG much friendlier and more "unspoilt" than the touristy Baliem Valley, and as English is widely-spoken there, meaningful communication with the locals is easier for most visitors.
Prices are higher in PNG, but cheap village-stays are possible in the Sepik - your main expense could be the flight to Wewak.

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To newfie43:
Thanks, great website! My eyes start twinkling. So Raja Ampat can be possible for normal mortals :-))
To Laszlo:
Thanks also. And again: now almost 6 years ago we went on our first Indonesia trip to Flores and...Sumba. It was the island of Sumba that really enchanted us and that probably makes us going back to Indonesia now.
And who has helped us getting inspired for Sumba then??? Indeed....a certain mister Laszlo! So thanks again.

Concerning the Baliem, as most probably it will be the combo Raja Ampat and the Baliem anyway:
I heard that for example the Yali region next to the Baliem could present an alternative if we would feel the Baliem 'core' to be a little too touristy for our tastes.

Any advice to give on how to approach Yali lands??

I also looked into the Korowai area but 1 it seems too expensive to organize and 2 maybe too intrusive in the 'human zoo' kinda way... However I see that flights from Wamena to Dekai...are pretty cheap at (I found some) less then 40€ per person....

All in all my question is: who can advice me to visit this Baliem valley (which is a legend in my fantasy since childhood ;-) but maybe avoiding the all too touristy parts around Wamena... Also tips on guides to use, etcetera are more then welcome.

We will have approx 18-19 days in total on Papua soil. That is for both Raja Ampat and the Baliem (or somewhere else). As I see it now: a week for Raja Ampat and 10 days for the Baliem + some days fro transport and to spend around Jayapura/Sentani.

Although I'm still tempted by this Sepik river also.... :-)))

Thanks!!!

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The Yali area is beautiful, but either a long, VERY hard trek, or an expensive air-charter away from Wamena

Dekai may be cheap to fly to, but from there to the Korowai is a very expensive boat charter (upwards of $1500).

I have general tips on the Baliem, guides etc, on my website.

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Thx Laszlo. Any idea what the price for such an air charter to, say Anguruk, would be and if it can be realistic to share with say....another couple or 2????
Can you and others say what area in-around the Baliem you prefer still being in relation to easy-not too expensive or too time consuming access??
How does trekking this mountain area close to Manokwari compare to the Baliem??

Thanks!!!

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Last I checked, Angguruk charters were $600 each way.
Don't count on finding others to share with locally - many tourists to these area are on package tours, while most individuals find it expensive enough just to get and be there.

Most tourists trek the southern area of the Baliem due to its fine scenery and easy access. Villages tend to be most traditional-looking right in the Grand Valley though. Don't expect to see more traditional people just by trekking 2-3 days further into the mountains, or taking a car to the end of the longest roads - it makes little difference.

The Arfaks offer much more unspoilt trekking with interesting scenery, more chance to see birds of paradise, and different traditional architecture, but the people there won't "go naked" for the cameras even if you paid them.

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