New Ireland - easy to do on your own?

How is it traveling to New Ireland independently without a tour? Can we arrange things with local people, such as boat trips, homestays, local food, snorkeling trips? (we have our own gear) Can we get lots of fresh seafood everywhere? Is it easy to get boats to the outlying islands?

We are used to simple accommodations and native foods, have already been to Solomon Islands and off-the-beaten track in eastern Indonesia and loved it. Will we be able to get around on our own in NIP? How easy (or hard) is it to find dances, rituals, and ceremonies?

Can you just go off the beach and go snorkeling? If so, where do you recommend for this?

Thanks for any help. We want to go in 2009.

Very easy to travel alone, by PNG standards, that is!
In fact New Ireland is one of my favourite corners of the South Pacific.
Of course finding traditional ceremonies and rituals requires luck - I did see one! :-)