Notes from Savaii

It had been several years since I had been in Savaii and I was pleased to have 3 nights there a few weeks ago and be able to check out the whole tourist scene. Actually I had a hard time getting my head around seeing so many tourists on the island. I lived there for several months in the 70's and the only other palagis around were missionaries. I was amazed to see a large group of oldie tourists biking around the island. Several guys out on the lagoon kite surfing were also a new sight for the locals. I went over on the boat and found it easy going. I took the local Pasi o le Va'a (Bus of the Boat) out to the Mulifanua wharf.

At Saleleloga I walked the mile or so to Lusia's Lagoon Chalets. I had not booked ahead but was able to get a small garden fale, including a big breakfast, for 65 tala. There were fancier fales right next to the water. No beach but you could climb down into the water and there was also a lovely little spring fed tidal pool to swim in too. Excellent restaurant there for lunch and dinner. The place has a lovely cool and quiet garden. The place is several years old so garden fales were a little shabby. Still, a place I would recommend. The new Saleleloga market is just a short walk one way and the rest of town up from the wharf within walking distance the other way. Also all the buses go right past Lusias to get to the market place.

One of the places I wanted to check out was the new surfing place at Fa'ala. Went out on the Palauli bus and walked the one mile from the road out to Aganoa surf fales. Seemed like a nice place to hang out. The owner is a surfer. Small beach but beautiful coastal scenery. 100 tala a night for the fales...including meals. My last night there I stayed at Lano beach and Lauiula Beach Fales. Got there on the Puapua bus Narrow beach but a nice set up. Open fales with the sea a few feet away. Nice new dining and reception area. 70 tala for a night with breakfast and dinner. I had heard a lot previously about 50 tala a night fales but that seems to be a thing of the past at any place that advertises and has a web site, phone etc. However at Lano, when I walked down the beach about 50 yards there was some other fales with no fancy dinning area or anything but an Aussie guy was staying there for 50 tala including meals so the 50 tala places are still there if you go looking for them.