Solo backpacking from Port Morseby to Jayapura - safe?

I'm planning a trip from Australia up through all of south east Asia, and wanted to start at PNG.

I've spoken to many people about this and have heard lots about it being one of the more dangerous countries in the world, in terms of crime. Basically everyone is telling me to start my trip elsewhere.

How dangerous is it actually to travel in PNG?
As per the title, i want to travel from Port Morseby to Jayapura as I'm doing all of this trip overland when possible.

I spoke to someone a few weeks ago who went to visit two of her girlfriends living in Port Moresby, and they seemed to be OK taking day trips around the capital, but obviously her friends had local knowledge, and a big car.

FYI, i'm a 6ft2 male average/thin build (if that means anything)

Thanks :)

It may not be as safe as Singapore or New Zealand, but for most male travelers with a sober mind it is safe enough to get through without trouble and to enjoy it a lot along the way.
Just read the many PNG posts and trip reports on this branch.
Also the PNG link in my signo line.

Thanks for that positive advice, I was really looking forward to trying out Papua.
I notice you mention Jayapura as a sea only border crossing from PNG to Indonesia in your Indo visa matters section.
Is that just because you haven't updated it (as i think this is a recent thing?)

Also going by your advice, when i apply for my Indo visa when in PNG, I shouldn't say that i'm going via Papua (i.e Jayapura). Should I still follow that advice?

Sea crossing only refers to visa on arrival facilties.
The land border is (usually) open but gives no visas on arrival.

Of course if you apply for your Indo visa in PNG it will be obvious that you will pass through Papua.
You can therefore list Jayapura and maybe Wamena, but don't list obscure places and do also list Manado, Bali and places in Java.

Ok cool.

Well it looks like this is what I'm doing, it was either start my trip in PNG, or start in Bali. I wanted the start of my trip to be a little more unique than just going to bali like every other Australian.

Any tips for actually travelling from P.M to Jayapura? I.e. buses etc?

I'm looking at another thread for PNG, seems like there's not even any backpacker places to stay at!

And I'm having trouble finding a cheap flight out of PNG so I can apply for my visa.
Air Niugini don't have the easiest fairs to cancel. I could always buy a return to Australia with Virgin...
it's a case of do i risk getting the $800 return flight with no cancelation fee, or a $300 fair with $60 cancelation fee...
But i just don't want to lie to customs if they question me on arrival. Guess i had better not get my indo visa in Australia, as PNG customs might ask why i have an indo visa if my flight is a return...

Laszlo is spot on, as long are able to make a few sensible decisions you'll be safe (i.e. don't get drunk in dodgy places, don't carry & display expensive things, make local friends & speak a bit of the language).

Backpacking isn't a popular thing in PNG. The budget acccommodation in PNG are called 'guesthouses'. They don't really advertise on the internet generally but they are all over the country, and in many villages. One place to find them on the internet is villagehuts.com , where you can see prices which can help you plan. Alternatively look on the provincial tourism websites, (www.newirelandtourism.org.pg or www.eastnewbritain.gov.pg) where there is some guesthouse accommodation listed. I can help you out with info for Madang if needed.

Yeah, it is a shame about the price of the flights here...

Are you planning on trekking Kokoda Track or the Bulldog Track to get out of Moresby? You mention you want to go overland, and that is the only other way besides a flight.

yeah unfortunately I've sort of realised that flying out of port moresby is really my only option. I've had to change plans, first stop indonesia. One flight to Indo and I don't want to catch any flights after that. cos yeah i wasn't going to do the kokoda track.

though if i did, would there be roads from kokoda to Lae, and then onto wewak/vanimo?
Problem is my bag is going to way 20kg, so i don't think you could do the kokoda trek with that much weight. though it would be a crazy way to start my trip...

Oh, so no more PNG? Sad times. But yeah, from Popondetta/Oro Province it is another hike to Lae, or catching banana boats up the coast (dingies with outboards). There is a road from Lae to a place called Bogia (which is really close to Wewak). Then you need to banana boat it again to Wewak and then to Vanimo.

It is hard to do without internal flights unless you are pretty intrepid, but that's what makes PNG special I guess.

Edited by: MVCB

ok I've put port morseby back on the agenda. i want to leave in about a week though so need to get my PNG visa asap.
I think i'll give the kokoda track a go. never heard of the bulldog track, will look into that also!
decisions decisions!
Thanks for the tips. are you from PNG? Madang I'm guessing?

yeah, I'm from Madang. let me know how it goes!

Cheers, will do. I realised that if i'm arriving in Port Moresby i can get a visa on arrival.
One less hassel (though if i'm flying in, i'll still need an onward/return ticket. might just get an expensive refundable one...)

When you say from Popondetta/Oro Province it is another hike to Lae, I checked the map and that's about 6 times the distance of the kokoda track!!! Surely that's not possible?? Or is it only a small part of that distance that requires trekking?

It is possible, but after doing kokoda your legs might decide it is better to hop in a banana boat for that trip. You'll be able to get one from Popondetta to Lae. It is all a pretty epic trip though. Lae is in a bit of turmoil right now btw with some riots in the slums, but hotels & guesthouses are safe.