Tahiti on a budget

Transport
Inter-island transport is somewhat difficult to arrange, apart from the flight passes that most people end up using. They are a very good deal compared to several individual flights, but still expensive (about 35000 CFP for a 5-island pass). Since direct flights are often booked, flight pass users often have to spend hours combining several 15-minute hops, thus damaging the environment even more. The only (and much cheaper) alternative are a few container ships that take passengers as well. Tourists have been strongly discouraged from using them, with different explanations (the ship is fully booked, or it is now prohibited to take tourists, or the captain does not want to). Bribes may be an option, but the amount demanded varies. In practice, it seems easier to get on board on the other islands than in Papeete. Even if the ticket office does not sell tickets, it is still possible to show up and buy a ticket on board. A ride from Papeete to Bora-Bora costs 1800 CFP in Deck class. This involves a night spent on an open but roofed platform on deck. Bring a mat and sleeping bag or blankets / sheets (it’s not cold).
Most islands have occasional buses, but they are not very convenient for tourists, and not all tourist information offices are very forthcoming about their schedules. On Bora-Bora tourists are not usually allowed on the buses. Hotels charge about 500 CFP per person for a short transfer (up to 5 km). Hitchhiking is possible but not easy.

Camping
There are no campsites in or near Papeete.
On Moorea, two campsites on Hauru point are very close to each other. Both offer bungalows and dorms as well. Camping Moorea is somewhat cheaper and more run-down (e.g., no electricity outlets for guests to use), but has a nicer sitting area with beach. Apparently it will be shut down this year. Camping Nelson, next door, has Internet access.
Practically all places on Bora Bora that used to allow camping have stopped doing so. At the moment, “Chez Henriette” on the Eastern side of the island still offers camping, but as the woman at the tourist information commented (with a mean grin) “there is nothing! You will need transport!”
On Maupiti, “Visit Maupiti” on the main island offers camping for 4000 CFP per person with half-board, and sometimes for 1000 CFP on the motu without facilities. This requires a transfer to the motu, though, and when we visited they were unable to provide the transfer. “Auira Pension” (Chez Edna) has a beautiful small camp site (2000 CFP per person) on a motu, with kitchen and use of kayaks. It is possible to wade over to the motu and even to transfer the luggage by kayak (for free).
On Raiatea, Sunset Beach Motel has a fabulous camp site on a lawn, with kitchen and free use of kayaks and snorkelling equipment, for 1100 CFP per person. It is about 5 km from Uturoa, but transfers to the airport / dock are included (even into town if you arrange it early).

Food
Eating out is quite expensive, even at the roulottes, open vans that sell sandwiches and fast food. However, all the places where we stayed, including campsites, had good kitchen facilities, and fresh food is reasonably priced. Much of it is imported from Asia, so Chinese-style dishes are a good choice for self-catering. Of course French food is also available and relatively good value.

Internet
Prices in Internet cafes range from about 600 CFP per hour in Papeete to 1600 CFP in Bora-Bora, and outside Papeete Internet cafes are rare (on Bora-Bora for instance only in Vaitape; none on Maupiti). Wireless networks are generally encoded. The local provider, Mana, offers prepaid cards (e.g. 1900 CFP for 3 hours) that can be used for wifi in all post offices and some other hotspots; some post offices even provide computers.

For more details, see the budget page on our blog

Westwards
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Terrific post, thank you for sharing all the details.

I'm wondering if you could expand on your difficulties getting tickets on the cargo boat from Papeete. Were you asked to pay bribes (and more than once) in order to purchase a ticket?

Can I ask why tourists aren't allowed on buses on Bora Bora? Is it because tourists don't pay for the long term maintenance of the buses, or is it to protect the tourist operators? Just wondered!

Nice post, thanks for the updates.

Just a few comments:
---whether you take those short-hop flights or not, they will still go, so the environmental damage will be the same.
---I had also never heard that tourists were not allowed on the buses on Bora Bora.
---the freighter captains do not usually have insurance to cover passengers, thus they are reluctant to allow them. But. it seems a few will take the chance if the price is right, although I had not heard this before.

You've really highlighted a microcosm of travel in the whole South Pacific. Trasnport is getting more expesnive and more difficult both between countries, and within them as well. It will only get worse. Visitors should, unfortunately, plan on having more time, or more money, or both.