Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Tanna basics

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea

Hi,

Following advice on TT (thanks, Laszlo and others), I will fly in to Tanna (from AKL)
for 5 days in the beginning of November. Haven't been nearby that part of the world before,
so I would appreciate any assistance with the basics:

  1. Accommodation: any recommendations? I understand from this thread that
    the east side might be more interesting. Would very much like to see some kind
    of "traditional" villages, so bungalows sound interesting. However, I don't see anything on
    positiveearth.org. I will be alone, so nothing fancy needed; access to above-mentioned
    kind of villages would be great.

  2. Should I book accommodation in advance? I assume it would be best
    also for transportation from the airport.

  3. What should one bring? I have read elsewhere here that school supplies
    (notebooks, pens, etc?) have been given out.
    Is bringing stuff like school supplies a good idea for a 5-day trip? (Traveling
    from northern Europe by way of Queenstown and Auckland, so wouldn't want to
    carry too much unnecessarily.) Are sandals enough footwear? Or are sneakers,
    or even walking/trekking shoes, needed?

  4. Highlights, especially in terms of "local things/culture/kastom")?
    I am aware of the volcano :-)

  5. I have an hour+ connection at VLI; is that enough time to get vatu at the airport,
    or is it better to get some vatu in Auckland?

Any advice would be highly appreciated!

First of all: you need a lot of cash Vatu for Tanna, for accommodation, transport and food. There were no ATM's when I was there (Sept. 2010). Locally owned accommodations take only cash, there are a few a bit more upmarket places that take credit cards. There is an ATM at the airport, but when I arrived it was empty; there is a money changer though. In Port Vila are several ATMs.

I did book my accommodation and transport from the airport beforehand, just to be sure. I can recommend Sunrise Bungalows, about half an hour drive from the volcano. Wonderful location, on a cliff overlooking the black sand beach and the ocean. Beautiful sunrise in the morning. If you decide to stay there, bring some snacks and drinking water, as there is no shop. The restaurant serves three meals a day (not included if I remember well), but is closed between meal times.

After having done two trips to the volcano (totally awesome!) and a couple of hiking trips with guide Peterson (recommended, he is very knowledgeable about bush food and bush medicine and he's good company as well) I moved to Tanna Evergreen. I stayed in a room with shared facilities, which was OK, but the more expensive bungalows looked a lot better. Tanna Evergreen takes credit cards and they have a restaurant that's open all day - a good place to mingle with other guests while having a cold one.

Here I did a tour to a so called cultural village (Kalangai), where people live like they have done for centuries. No modern tools, people wear grass skirts and penis sheats and live off what the land has to offer. Fortunately it was only me and two other people who were visiting, which added to the experience. I also did the Magic Tour, which I can not recommend, as it seemed very staged.

Then I moved to Sunset Bungalows, a 5 minute walk away from Lenakel, the "capital" of Tanna. I did two tours here: to a very big banyan tree, which was nice enough and to a cave where people (used to) practice black magic, which was very special, especially since I was the only visitor. The market in Lenakel is worth a visit, to watch the ladies in their island dresses sell their produce.

I haven't been, but I heard a visit to the John Frumm kastom village is supposed to be good.

To make easy contact with people bringing tobacco or sigarettes is a good idea . I shared my rollies with the people (men) I met on the way and that opened a lot of doors.

Hope this helps. I loved Tanna, I am sure you will have a great time there too!

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I am afraid I can't help with tips on accommodation as local hospitality prevented me using paying accommodation throughout my stay on Tanna. :-)

I'd say leave the school supplies at home.
If you visit traditional villages, kava would be a suitable traditional gift, though the more touristy kastom villages like Yakel will probably want cash.
These villages, the Jon Frum one included, were definitely Tanna's highlights to me - I actually skipped climbing the volcano as I had seen many volcanoes before.

If you plan to do any serious walking, bring more than just sandals - trails can get muddy and slippery.

Getting your Vatu in Vila airport should be fine.

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Thank you very much, Laszlo and Lilau. This is very helpful!

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