Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

The real South Pacific - Tonga or Samoa?

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea

Hi Guys

hoping to get some advice from you people out there.

Firstly the details...... we only have about 8 days (I know it's short). We are planning on anytime between July and Sep. We are budget conscious (gone are our backpacking/bumming days and hello to mortgage payments) but thinking around $250 NZ a day with all activities is OK.

We want to see the real South Pacific. Definitely not interested in playing tourist games and after years travelling, thinking back roads through villages, meeting some friendly locals and heading off in random directions is what we are after. However I must admit the idea of swimming with whales, albeit very touristic would be very cool (and I think that can only be done out of Tonga?).

Anyway, the research I have done to date has me leaning towards either Tonga or Samoa for a more authentic South Pacific holiday away from red-faced westerners, watching footy on Sky TV and lounging by the pool. But then, it also seems it's a little more expensive to get to both Tonga and Samoa (I'm flying from New Zealand).

So please let me know what you think.... or suggest something completely different.

Cheers

Ged

I can't help with your actual question but are you familiar with Pacific Blue's happy hour fares? They come available between 12pm and 1pm and often offer some quite good airfare prices to both Tonga and Samoa. Just some random checks (not happy hour fare) has Auckland to Tonga for $438 return.

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Being on a tight budget..pick the cheapest airfare. However, I've been to both places and would take Samoa over Tonga. Upolu and Savai'i, Samoa are pretty neat Islands to visit.

2

I'm on the other side of the fence, having been to both W. Samoa and Tonga I'd pick Tonga, but I can't really say why. Just the feeling I got, in both places.

3

You can see the South Pacific off the beaten track in both Samoa and Tonga. Tonga is less touristy than Samoa, hence it is a bit more difficult to get around, but reading about your experiences and preferred way of travel it does not sound like you´d have a big problem with that. Like you mentioned, in Tonga you can swim with the Humpack Whales and it is an incredible adventure. It is a tourist attraction, but you can still do it with only a handful of other people in Ha'apai, which is the most laid-back and largely undiscovered (by tourism that is) island group in Tonga. It has really affordable backpacker accommodation (town or beach) and also many deserted islands that you could camp on if you wanted that. Ha'apai is pretty flat, so hiking is not its prime attraction, but 'Eua off the main island of Tongatapu would be well worth a visit for that. It also has lots of caves, you can even go climbing and the rainforest is magnificent. Ha'apai has great deserted white beaches and stunning coral reefs for diving and snorkeling and of course the whales. Kayaking is also possible.

Regarding flying, Air New Zealand also has grab-a-seat offers every Wednesday night at 12 pm and you can get a return flight for around 500 NZ$. Transport to Ha'apai (flight or ferry - the latter is supposed to start service again this month, but who knows...) is extra of course.

4

It certainly sounds that Tonga is the better bet for you, though swimming with the whales will require an additional domestic RT flight to the northern islands.

Samoa would be easier and cheaper transportwise, but for the same reason also more "touristy".

Incidentally, Melanesian Vanuatu could offer much more rewarding off-the-tourist-track experiences than either Tonga or Samoa, with more outer islands to choose from, much friendlier people, and a much more traditional culture, but it has no whale swimming (just dugongs) and would probably cost more to fly to from NZ.

Back in Polynesia, Niue would be much less touristy than either Tonga or Samoa, has whales and fairly cheap direct flights from NZ, I think. But its culture is less traditional and beaches are few and tiny.

5

i've lived in both tonga and samoa. both have their attractions. samoa has more tourism infrastructure and more tourists, but is very beautiful and easy to access everything with 2 main islands. i would agree with finsnflukes that Ha'apai and 'Eua are very quiet and special in their own way, with 'Eua a short 2-3 hour ferry ride away from Nuku'alofa, Tonga's capital. Stay away from expensive palagi-run resorts in Ha'apai unless you must have luxuries like hot water. There's some great budget accommodation options with Tongan families around Neiafu.

6

Thanks to you all for the info. At this stage I'm undecided but probably leaning to Tonga as it's looking like the flights are cheaper. Of course, if I wanted to get out to Ha'apai or Vava'u the cost jumps.
Wondering what your thoughts are comparing Ha'apai and Vava'u? Are they really all that different? The flights are cheaper from Tongatapu to Ha'apai so that is a bonus? Is one of the islands more laid-back and less over-run by tourists than the other? Is the whale watching better at either island and what would be the best time to go to maximise the chances of swimming with them?

Finally, if I decided to flag the outer islands and spend a week on Tongatapu and Eua, would that be too much or too little time. I have heard conflicting reports about Tongatapu being average and hence the need to move onto the outer islands quickly. Do you agree?

Thanks again

7

Hi Gedstar,

Definitely recommend spending a few days in 'Eua if you can. The Fangatave track and caves are unlike anything else in the South Pacific. Due the the lack of tourists, the cliff trail and 11-cave system at the bottom is untouched, (and will hopefully stay that way for many years to come!) there are 3 or 4 different walks you can do on 'Eua, some with a guide and some just with a map and it's pretty much as traditional as you'll get in Tonga. Would recommend flying over (TOP$80) and returning on the ferry as the trip over can sometimes be a little bumpy, but if it's authenticity you're after, then the ferry's for you!!

Ha'apai would be lovely to experience and is definitely less touristy than Vava'u and you can swim with the whales there too.

Tongatapu can probably be done in a couple of days. There are some amazing beaches, blowholes and caves, but 'Eua and Ha'apai would be more suitable if you're looking to get off the beaten track.

Hope this helps.

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