Trip Report - Malekula / Malakula

Because it was tricky for me to find much info before I left, I thought I'd provide a short trip report on our recent trip to Malekula.

A lot of our planning was made a lot easier by emailing with the wonderful Serah (and Etna) at Malampa Travel Call Centre - while they only book particular accommodation and transfers, they know about everything that's happening tourism-wise in Malekula. Given we only had 11 days on the island, it made a huge difference to have a local perspective on what was possible. Probably worth noting - Serah and Etna are working to develop the standard of tourism in Malekula. While they don't list or formally book for more simple accommodation like bungalows without flush toilet etc, they do know about them and have contact with many of the proprietors - so ask. Local people sometimes say "cruise ships stop here". If you like to be off the beaten track and the idea of going where a cruise ship goes puts you off a bit - don't let it... it seems that sometimes what people mean is that once, 6 years ago, a P&O stopped for an afternoon. P&O do stop on Wala Is, but I don't think anywhere else in Malekula.

With the exception of the Manbush Tour, we were budgeting for AU$100/day for the two of us - food, accom and transport. We managed to stay well & truly below this - closer to average $60/day for the two of us. If you wanted to do more 'tours', you could still get by for under $100AU a day for a couple. Single would find it a bit harder (charter boat transfers etc). People frequently apologised for feeding us local food (with the exception of laplap, of which they're understandably proud), and for not having flush toilets / having only bucket showers. This didn't phase us at all, and I don't think it would bother the average backpacker. Bungalows themselves were very clean, bedlinen and mosquito nets provided, toilet and washing facilities good, and there was always plenty of food. If you want to cook for yourself, supplies are a bit limited outside of Lakatoro.

While it would've been easy to get by on this trip with only English or French, it was so great to have learned some Bislama. We used Bislama: An Introduction to the National Language of Vanuatu , and the LP phrasebook.

We flew into Norsup, and stayed at Lakatoro Palm Lodge - cheaper (I think 500Vt for a double) than indicated on the site. Assunta was lovely and helpful. We had done some food etc shopping in Port Vila, but this was totally unneccessary given shops available in Lakatoro (also - LP and others recommend buying toilet paper to take to outer islands - for Malekula at least it was readily available in all 'large' towns).

We'd booked transport, guide etc for the Manbush Trail through Malampa Travel Call Centre. Although some things we'd hoped for - eg: cultural tour of Mellkin - didn't happen (the Chief had changed the day before, so it was totally inappropriate), the hike was fantastic. The forest was stunning (rainforest, cloud forest, lowland dry forest, cultivated gardens), many people in the villages were interested in talking with us and walking with us, and it was such a great chance for us to understand a bit more about peoples' lives in rural Vanuatu. You could do the walk + transfers in fewer than 5 days, but we enjoyed the chance to take our time and spend longer with people. I definitely wouldn't try and do the hike on my own - apart from anything I'd get hopelessly lost, but it was really reassuring to know that villagers were involved in organising the trip, that the guide spoke local language and that kastom fees were all being looked after.

We spent the final night in the guesthouse in Lawa - it doesn't seem to be advertised anywhere and seems to do its primary (? limited) business with the Manbush groups. It's run by Kelina Raobong and family - it's absolutely gorgeous (fresh flower arrangements, delicious meals) and right on the beach. If you had a limited time in Malekula I'd even recommend flying into Wintour and heading there by pickup (1500Vt) for a lovely rural beachside experience.

We had initially intended to spend 5 days in the Maskelynes, but arriving back in Lakatoro on a Saturday meant that there was no public transport. So we headed to Uripiv (boats around midday Saturday, 4 - 4:30 weekdays, 100Vt pp) and stayed with Rachel at Beach Bungalows The bungalow is just outside of (sorry...I forget the name of the village...just where the boats land) the village, and is on the beach. Rachel was a delightful hostess and accompanied us on a circumnavigation of the island, provided snorkelling tips, provided her take on local cultural and religious histories etc etc.

After two nights on Uripiv, we headed into town hoping to get a truck to Lamap. There wasn't one running all the way to Lamap that day, so we went to Black Sands (1000Vt) and then Batik took us across the inlet in his boat (1000Vt) (I'm not sure how to contact him - I think if the pickup comes through Black Sands, he just appears or can be hollered for). The pickup is a really great experience - crowded in the back with anyone and everyone, rice, chickens etc etc.

At Lamap we stayed with Lulu at Sta Maria Guesthouse (or "Lulu's"). It's a really lovely guesthouse with several rooms, though we were the only guests. Easy walk into/through town. Unfortunately we arrived at dusk and were set to leave early-ish the next day. Lulu was a charming host and Loretta cooked the most delicious vegetarian meals we ate during our trip. Lamap has an ecotourism association who are working really hard to develop their tourism industry, which already includes things like amazing snorkelling sites, dugong tours, hiking trail, kastom dance, cooking demonstrations. (In this link Tito is listed as Francophone, but he also speaks great English).

Lulu organised a pickup (I can't remember how much, sorry!) down to the point for our boat transfer (3000Vt) to Lutes in the Maskelynes, which Ambong from Malaflaf had organised for us. The Maskelynes are really beautiful - highlights probably paddling around in outrigger canoes, the amazing snorkelling, and people being friendly, warm and welcoming. We took a mangrove tour - outrigger canoe through the mangroves - which was beautiful. We also did a lot of our gift shopping at a local soap factory (they use palm oil, local cacao, local turmeric). There were heaps of other things on offer (there is a turtle nesting beach and turtles are frequently seen, and dugongs feed on the seagrass on the mainland between Lamap and Maskelyne Is / Uluveo, Sakao Is where people's gardens are is really gorgeous).

After the boat transfer to the point, it was an easy 15 minute walk to the airport. Lamap Ecotourism Association and Maskelyne Tourism Association are developing a small rest hut at the point, and are in the process of doing a reef survey at the point.

I hope this is useful, and encourages others to visit Malekula.

Great report on a rarely visited island!

Thanks a lot for the report. I posted one of my own on Malekula just a few minutes ago before noticing this one. I only spent 3 short days on Malekula and didn't do any trekking, so the nature of my visit was a lot different, and rather superficial compared to yours. Good write-up! :)