Ambae

Has anyone been to Ambae?

I am interested in visiting the crater lakes. Any information and recommendations that you can provide on accommodation and transport to Ambae would be appreciated.

Maria

Hi maria,
Im also very interested in hearing about Ambae. Im considering a side trip there from Santo in September. The pictures of the crater lakes that Ive seen are AMAZING! You've probably already know about this wonderful little website but I've found it a good place to start. I know that it costs around AUD$70 minus 20% for international travellers.

Just be prepared that Ambae's landscape may have changed quite a bit after the large eruption that took place the year before last.
I am not sure when some of the photos were taken.

The above site is great indeed.

Hi Maria ,

I am planning to go to Ambae next week and I will tell you when back .

Laszlo is right , there was an eruption in the lake recently and I think there is a little crater in the middle now, so the landscape is certainly different from all the photos you have seen !

Paulot

Paulot, I will look forward to your report.

I saw the media coverage of the eruption and the evacuation of island residents. It would be interesting to know more about the impact on the surrounding environment.

Maria

Maria,

I was volunteer teaching on West Ambae in 2005 (the same time of the eruption) and I also went back last year for a visit and to see the crater lakes. The lakes are definitely worth seeing. There are three of them; Monaro Ngoru which is pretty much dry, Manaro Lakua which is the biggest and great for swimming, (especially after the long walk) and Manaro Vui which is the one that erupted in 2005. Vui has now changed colour to a dark red and a cone has formed in the middle which sulfur smoke comes out of. It is pretty amazing to see.

As far as accommodation goes, the best guest house that I know of on West Ambae is the Toa Guest House in Ndui Ndui and there's a few others but I can't remember their names and they aren't advertised very well.

If you do choose to go to West Ambae and have any questions about it, I would be more than happy.

Goodluck,

Daniel

Thanks Daniel,
I've seen the Toa Guest House on various websites, it does look like the best option.

Are there regular boats from Santo to Ambae, or should I get a flight instead?

Can you walk to the crater lakes from west ambae? or is it preferable to go from Ambanga?

Maria

Hey,

Umm flying is probably the easiest and most reliable way to get there. There are always boats going from Santo to Ambae but there is not set schedule, you just have to be there at the right time. Travelling by boat is a great experience though, squeezing in between the cargo and other passengers.
f you did want to get a boat you should ask around in Santo if anyone knows of a boat leaving for Ambae in the near future and they should be able to help you. Then you need to make sure they will be stopping at Ndui Ndui which they usually do as they would probably have cargo to drop off.
Yes you can definitely walk to the lakes from the west side, thats where I did it. It's a pretty hard slog, depending on the way you go, but its worth it. I would say that you could organise a guide to take you through the guesthouse, you would never be able to get there without a guide as there isnt distinct path to take.

Hope this helps,

Daniel

Great. Thanks for the info.

Maria

Hye ,

Sorry for my late answer .
I was in Ambae 2 weeks ago to go to the Manaro lakes and especially on Vui lake . Unfortunatly , it was raining and was stuck during 2 whole days because of this strong rain in Ambaga , north of the island , which is at the beginning of the northern trail . So , I decided to trek despite the heavy rain and did all the trail in the rain forest with these conditions ; so arrived to the top , I just had time to (try) see the remaining cratera in the lake , but with no smoke and no activity . With good conditions , it is certainly wonderful .
My advice if you start from Ambaga is to do it very early 05H00 am , not because it is difficult but very long .
I started at 07H15 and came back at 06H45 pm , just half an hour a break at the summit to rest and to take only 3 photos
Because of the clouds , so do not underestimate the journey .
If you want some more information about Ambae (or Ambrym , Tanna ,…) , do not hesitate .

Paulot

Paulot,
tell me more! Where did you stay? and would you recommend it?

Is it possible to camp along the trail or near the crater lakes as it sounds like too long a day with little time for enjoyment?

Maria

Hye Maria ,

I stayed in a very basic guesthouse in the end of Ambaga held by woman who lives with her old mother and her baby (don' remember her name ). For the northern trail , I think it is the only one and it is just at the beginning of it , so your driver will lead you straight to it . I stayed there 3 days and paid 4500 Vatus (only accomodation , but you can ask for food too) .
For the driver , you can ask for Charlot Sese like written in the LP ; normally he waits for "customers" at the arrival of the planes and he was my driver : very fiendly and very cool (imagine Bob Marley!) , I did my first real Kava "party" with him . Transportation is very expensive in Vanuatu and especially in Ambae where only the 4WD can drive in the north ; expect to pay 5000 Vatu for the "trip" from the airport to the guesthouse in ambaga .

As the trail is very narrow , I did not really notice a place to camp . Apparently , as my guide proposed me first , the only available place to plant the tent is located near the Lakua Lake (soft water) and I don't think it is possible near the Vui lake ; furthermore I have been told there as some gas not especially friendly !!
Besides , and may be , from the western or southern part you can start your trek , but I do not know ,as I arrived in Longana .
Be prepared not only spend just one day there , I prefer to advise you to have some more days left in order to take account of the bad weather .......but may be I was unlucky !!!!!!!!

Cheers

Hmmmm....sounds like camping is not an option from the northern side. I don't think I could do a 10 to 12 hour walk in one day. I'm fit, but not that fit.

Daniel, how long did the walk take from the western side? Did you notice any places to camp along the way?

Maria

Hi Maria,

The walk took about 7 hours to ge to the lakes and probably a bit less on the way back because it was downhill from there. We started from a village called Quainavoa which is probably one of the closest to the lakes on the western side. I cant really say there was any great places for camping along the way, but Im sure there would be places that you could camp. Just ask your guide before you go about doing the walk overnight, I'm sure they could sort something out for you.

Enjoy,

Daniel

Many thanks Daniel.

Ambae is the most remote Island I've ever been too, but it isn't an easy Island especially if like me you aren't young any more. The trekking is very difficult guides said 4-6 hours to get up to the crater, it took 8 hours 45' angle slopes through forest and tangled vines, 4 guys chopping with machetes through the jungled mass. A tough tough trek, 15 hours in total up and down in one go. We camped, the tent was already erected in the centre of the village when we arrived. We flew in, then a truck for 3 hours then a steep walk for 2 hours before arriving at the last village where we stayed overnight before setting off at 5 am, we arrived back late that evening exhausted the village put on a big celebration of dances and a volcano lava feast for us, I slept well that night although my legs dreamt that they were still trekking. Walked down the next day and flew away to Ambryn after that. Ambryn was easy in comparison although 11 hours up 8 hours down and slept overnight on the side of the volcano.